Richard Prager Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 OK, so how do you attach the aluminum tail part to the aluminum body part of the "mold"? I have the pieces cut out but can't get them to solder together, I tried staybrite w/flux and even some silver soldering (low temp. stuff) But I don't have experience with attaching 2 pieces of aluminum together. Do I use plastic steel or what? Thanx I could be wrong, but I don't think you attach the tail. The mold sits in a "notch" in the tail and then after it's dipped, you slide the form out of the tube through the notch in the tail. That's what I'm understanding from Del's pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captsully18 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 OK, so how do you attach the aluminum tail part to the aluminum body part of the "mold"? I have the pieces cut out but can't get them to solder together, I tried staybrite w/flux and even some silver soldering (low temp. stuff) But I don't have experience with attaching 2 pieces of aluminum together. Do I use plastic steel or what? Thanx Without an arc welder you will have trouble trying to solder/weld the two pieces of aluminum together. But you may try to join them with epoxy. I have made mine from stainless table knives (1.00 for six at Wal-Mart) and used spinnerbait blade for the tail. I joined these two pcs. together with some silver solder I got from a welding supply shop (Radnor Safety-Silv 56) and it worked well with a mapp gas torch. The two pieces definitely must be attached. If you look closely at pics delw has on here you can see that form is all one piece. And I must add that his idea has worked well for me. Just imagine, a man who makes living from making alum. molds telling us that it's better to dip, and then telling how it is done. What a guy. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captsully18 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 I could be wrong, but I don't think you attach the tail. The mold sits in a "notch" in the tail and then after it's dipped, you slide the form out of the tube through the notch in the tail. That's what I'm understanding from Del's pics. 152nd, the form is all one piece, and does slide out of bait after it cools a bit but is still warm. If you have lubed the form a little, it slides out through the tail with no problem. I have been playing using some super-soft plastic from m-f (all I have on hand, 'til Del sends my order-hint hint,LOL) but even the super-soft slides off easily if form is lubed just a little. Man I am having fun making the forms and dipping these even if they are tooooo soft. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubinator Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 It looks to me like delw made his out off 2 pieces (I could be wrong). Anyway in the picture that I have attached : The top one is made of steel and brass (I didn't like it), so I cut the bottom one (aluminum) out of a piece of 5/8x1/8 piece that I had laying around. The rear of the piece is cut at a 45 degree angle so that I could set it on the edge of a table to let it hang and get the drips going in the right direction. Still wondering if the "tail" is welded on or just wedged on. I don't know if epoxy products would work because of the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captsully18 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 It looks to me like delw made his out off 2 pieces (I could be wrong). Anyway in the picture that I have attached : The top one is made of steel and brass (I didn't like it), so I cut the bottom one (aluminum) out of a piece of 5/8x1/8 piece that I had laying around. The rear of the piece is cut at a 45 degree angle so that I could set it on the edge of a table to let it hang and get the drips going in the right direction. Still wondering if the "tail" is welded on or just wedged on. I don't know if epoxy products would work because of the heat. I want to appologize up front, I am computer illiterit (and can't seem to spell either). If I can get my son to help me with the pics. I will post some to show how I made mine. I have them in various stages of completion. Should have some to post over weekend. Sorry for being behind technology times, but I'm an old fart and that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!!!!!!! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captsully18 Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 Just to add to my last post, just talked with my son and he has agreed to help me ( ) this evening. So I shall have pics up tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 It looks to me like delw made his out off 2 pieces (I could be wrong). Anyway in the picture that I have attached : The top one is made of steel and brass (I didn't like it), so I cut the bottom one (aluminum) out of a piece of 5/8x1/8 piece that I had laying around. The rear of the piece is cut at a 45 degree angle so that I could set it on the edge of a table to let it hang and get the drips going in the right direction. Still wondering if the "tail" is welded on or just wedged on. I don't know if epoxy products would work because of the heat. Most epoxies can take the heat you would expect, at least for awhile. Welding (aluminum or stainless) or silver solder (stainless) would be best. You can also solder aluminum if you first tin it by melting a little solder onto it and brushing through the molten solder with a fiberglass brush. You can make the brush by taking an old piece of solid fiberglass fishing rod, or any other small fiberglass rod, and burn the end to get rid of the binder. What remains is a suitable brush. There are some really good aluminum brazing products out there also. hope it helps John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 I can't understand the necessity to permanently attach with braising and soldering. If you are careful making the joint, it should hold tight enough for this application. JM, I have never heard of that soldering technique before, nor any other for aluminium. The problem is the rapid oxidisation, but your technique solves it. Consider brass tube and sheet for the manufature, soldering with a light torch is simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassnRandy Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 Try J.B. Weld. After it dries clean the front side up with a little emery cloth. Just rough up the surface a litlle so it sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 JM, I have never heard of that soldering technique before, nor any other for aluminium. The problem is the rapid oxidisation, but your technique solves it. You might be amazed at some of the tidbits of information us old pharts have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 JB WELD takes up to 600 degs,so dipping it in the tempature of the plastic that we use for dipping doesn't bother it.I use it to attach the handles to my dipping rods.Might carve the shape from wood (popsicyle stick) with a small rod or tube glued to the back.cut a slot for the spinner blade,and cover the whole thing with a coat of JB WELD,then finish sanding to shape.Spray with Pam,remove the excess then dip.Cool.Cut the back of the lure(part way),remove the rod assembly,slide in a second rod (same size),with out the assy,also lubricated.Then dip into a second color just enough to cover the cut,and color the back.The out side of the lure will be shinny with no blemishes,because it will self level. Using the horizontal method this should be easy enough.I have dipped coated wood,but never a shape like this.I will try this.How could I call myself a tube man without at least giving it a try!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubinator Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 Well yesterday while at my suppliers I picked up a 6x6" piece of 14 gauge red brass, for about $6. Cut it to the shape I wanted (based on the hook I want to use) and here are a few picts. Now, I'll work on the tail section and be able to solder them together. It is nice being able to cut and shape the body part for the hook that you plan to use. After this one is working I plan on going smaller and using lite-wire hooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubinator Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 Here's the picts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubinator Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 Damn! hope it works this time.Forgot to shrink the file size! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captsully18 Posted October 15, 2007 Report Share Posted October 15, 2007 OK! Here goes, I hope that I haved learned enough to do this and not just enough to be dangerous.LOL Gonna try and post images of my forms and show one pait that I have made from this form. Pls. keep in mind that I was just playing around with some super-soft plastic, so didn't want to try to be too inventive. Although, any suggestions are welcome. Here goes: It worked!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted October 15, 2007 Report Share Posted October 15, 2007 OK! Here goes, I hope that I haved learned enough to do this and not just enough to be dangerous.LOL Gonna try and post images of my forms and show one pait that I have made from this form. Pls. keep in mind that I was just playing around with some super-soft plastic, so didn't want to try to be too inventive. Although, any suggestions are welcome. Here goes:It worked!!!! Very nice. one suggestion though, the tail needs to be at an angle to make it look like the real one. if you have any plans on selling them the angle is important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captsully18 Posted October 15, 2007 Report Share Posted October 15, 2007 Very nice.one suggestion though, the tail needs to be at an angle to make it look like the real one. if you have any plans on selling them the angle is important. Thanks Del, I know what you mean. The tail just wouldn't sit in the position it would be in in the water 'cause the plastic is sooo soft. The tail is actually at a 90 degree angle. Hopefully the tube plastic I ordered from you will be the answer. Thanks David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
