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Coosa Redeye

Still curious about Basstrix type lures

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I read the great information in the posts from Delw about making the Basstrix type bait. The dipping doesn't seem to be too complicated. My questions are these: How can I get the scale effects? Should I paint them and then dip the bait in clear plastic to seal the color in?

Thank you all in advance for your input. Tight Lines1

Coosa:whistle:

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I read the great information in the posts from Delw about making the Basstrix type bait. The dipping doesn't seem to be too complicated. My questions are these: How can I get the scale effects? Should I paint them and then dip the bait in clear plastic to seal the color in?

Thank you all in advance for your input. Tight Lines1

Coosa:whistle:

To get the scale effect you need to airbrush them, do the airbrushing and put on the eyes then cip one last time,

Heres one other way you can do it also if you don't want to airbrush but want kinda the same effect.

Get some fishnet stockings ( no I don't own any)

cut a little chunk of them off and drape them over the back of the bait, put the eyes on.

then dip the bait.

It won't affect the action that much as it wont be on the tail. It shouldn't make the bait much harder either.

its worth a try.

using that Idea you can also do different patterns using threads or thin yarns

Delw

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I have made a mold from pop and am able to pour a bit with a white belly and a different color back also, it is fairly easy to do here are the steps:

1 make a mold using a knife like del said insert it into a bait and mold one side leaving the knife in the bait.

2 let this one set all the way up also remember to put in your pouring spouts, one at the nose of the bait and one at the back of the bait.

( the reason for two spouts is if you want a multi color bait plug the nose spout with plastic plug and pour through the back spout this way the bait fills the belly first and then so on with other colors, if just one color pour through the nose plugging the back.)

3 after the first side sets up pour the next side makeing sure mixture is a little thinner as not to bend the thin tail, remember that the knife has to stay in the bait, to make a insert for it when your pour.

4 after this sets seperate easily and seal NOW GO POUR THIS WORKS GREAT!!!!!

Hope this helps Jason

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Me again. How can I accomplish getting the two or more color effect? I noticed that some of these type baits have the shad color top side and white belly.

Coosa

You can also accomplish the two tone with paint before last dip. I have ordered some paint from Lurecraft that is supposed to dry almost instantly, therefore you won't have to wait long between dips. Hope this is what I am looking for. They also say that this paint can be applied with brush, sponge, or airbrush. Hope Del will forgive my .02 on scale finish, use lace netting from sewing shop to hold over baits while painting, and this net can be used several times before needing a new piece. Have done this on hard baits and works great. Pinned a lot of hope on this paint. Won't know for sure 'til it gets here in few more days. Gotta give Del lots of credit 'cause if it wasn't for his advice I would still be at step one. Hope this is helpful, just MHO.

David

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Here is an idea I'm throwing around to make some similar baits. I am thinking of a traditional 1 pc pour from the top mold. No problem to make. However, I think I am going to mold a slot in the rear end or tail end of the mold to hold a SS rod to create the hollow effect of the tube. This way, when the bait cools, I can pull the rod out and slide the bait off. Pouring this way will allow me to make a multi color bait the old fashioned way and it can still be painted.

IMHO, it isn't all that necessary to have the entire lure be hollow. If you could get a 1/4" rod in there, that should make the tail work really nicely. Just an idea, any thoughts?

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I think you would get better results if you came in thru the side of the mold. This would leave the tail and paddle sections stronger and easier to pour. Then you could drill the hole 1/8 or 1/4" and use that size rod to fill the drill hole. And the rod would attach to any size "body cavity hollowing shape" that would fit into the mold. I had 2 mugs of coffee this morning so my drawing on your pict is a wee-bit shakey, but I hope you get the idea. Also you could pin the rod so that it stays in the same position for each pour.

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I was thinking about Jmik26's (post 11) idea. But pour half the plastic, then push the pin in and top up the plastic to completion. The mould is opened and the pin removed. This would guarantee that the paddle was filled.

It will be fiddly operating the pins, but if the idea is good, I am sure a way can be found. Possibly by mounting the mould in a frame to give access to the bottom.

I thought that I had posted this a few days ago, obviously missed the go button!

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