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Coosa Redeye

Paddle Tail- What am I doing worng?

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Tried to make the paddle tail tube for the first time today. I did not have any new plastisol, so I melted down some hand poured worms that I had. I made my "blank" with a cheap knife from Wal-Mart and a number 4 Colorado Blade. I heated my plastic to a very liquid consistency, then did the triple dip that DelW mentions in his plans. I tried to remove the bait while it was still warm. It just rolled into itself and had no smooth or even recognizable shape. The sides stuck to each other and the tail was pitiful. What did I do wrong? How can I remedy this situation?

As always, any help is greatly appreciated!

Coosa:(

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I've dipped many of these baits and am still learning. Sounds to me like the bait was too thin or the plastic too soft. If you don't wait long enough between dips the first dip will start to run again. I've had the same problem on the last part which is supposed to be single dipped. I've recently got some Basstrix baits and the plastic on them is very stiff...almost has a vinyl feel to it. It's seems harder than any plastic I have. These baits are very hard to make...I've had several tries and still not there.

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I think they are using tube plastic AND they put paint on their baits so that will stiffen them up a good bit.

Trial and error is all that works for these. I did notice that tail not being thick enough when using a colorado blade. I would not give enough resistance in the water to swim properly.

Jim

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The thickness of the blade has absolutely nothing to do with teh thickness of the plastic or tail.

the thickness is determined by 2 things only

how many times you dip it and most importantly how hot your temp. of the plastic is.

if you dip the blade in very hot plastic you will get a thinner tail, dipping it in cold plastic will give you a thicker tail, dipping it twice will give you a thicker tail.

The problem with using remelts( on mass produced baits) is that the plastic is always to thin at almost any temp. it doesn't have the characteristics of hand poured plastics. It doesn't reset up like the Org. bait, anyone that has used mass produced plastics can attest to this.

There are a few baits made by cabelas and Bassproshops that you can remelt, these baits are made with Calhoun plastic. If I remember correctly its the " living eye type baits"

Injection plastic used buy the big boys runs about 1/6th of the cost of hand poured plastics.

The big boys don't need to worry about smell, smoke and a few other things. all there stuff is done in a heat exchanger not on a pot or microwave.

Too many people have wanted to get started in pouring baits and figured they would remelt plastic only to be turned off cause they aren't getting the results they want.

I dip them in soft and I dip them in med, depending on the tail action I want. with a hollow tube it really doesn't make a difference in what type of plastic you use as you will still get the same effect. however the tail will just wiggle differently.

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Your favorite worm oil lightly spread on knife/blade form is just right to help slide bait off knife, and you get that favorite smell "cooked" in.

I just got my tube plastic from Del and it is wonderful. You will get the right tail if you have your plastic hot and dip twice. I have a doz. forms I dip with, when the last form is dipped to the tail the first time I then start with the first form immediately and the tails come out just right.

Now all I have to do to be somewhat satisfied is to get the painting down. I really suck at this, but the LC paint seems to be the way to go. It does dry almost as fast as you can put it on. I aim to get there tho.

Want to thank Del again for his input on the various threads on this subject. Actually y'all are to thank for your input. without it I would probably still be in the "thinking-about-it" stages.

Great web site

David

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