fisheye56 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Have just started my research for the right hinges for my swim baits I'm currently working on. Found a great little hinge but the problem either side was not long enough to be sure that is secure in the wood.Just have it in my mind eye type screws should be my last way to go.Did a word search on line at the many co. that do swim baits and it looks like they found something besides eye hook type screws? I live in Atlanta Ga area and sure could use some direction. Where to restart my quest. Water temp here is starting to fall I need to get a prototype under construction for some field testing!! HEEELP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillbilly1 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Iv used carter pins from auto zone and home depot drill a hole in one side and glue or epoxy them in with the eye end pointing out and cut a pocket on the other peace of the bait drill a small hole from the back of the bait to the bottom in line with the pins and slide a stainless steal wire for the hinge pins hope this helps:) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillbilly1 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 by the way Im in ballground just up the branch from atl on lathem res. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokeyJ Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 hate to be picky, but I think you mean cotter pin, not carter pin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Many of the newer japanese and domestic baits have a piano style hinge built in as part of the plastic body, with a pin running from top to bottom. JMHO, they look neat and very "custom" but don't provide the best action. I prefer handwound stainless eye screws built one inside the other. You can make them as long and as secure as you like. You can position them where you need them and use as many as you like. You can size the hinge eyes to control the distance between segments and their action. Once they're installed you don't have a problem with sticking, rusting or breaking. Last but not least, you have hinges whenever you need them as long as your stainless wire doesn't run out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I have never built hinged baits, but have seen and used many- great action. I have wondered why they use hinges, metal etc as they would corrode and probably make all sorts of non fish noises. Usually a through wire bait is made in two halves, so why not glue a thin sheet of ‘Lexan’ (I’m a polycarbonate freak) between the two halves to make a hinge, takes a heap of bending to break it and tear strength is way beyond a fish. Or maybe even better try a sheet of Kevlar cloth, should never break, from flex or tearing- AND – no noise. Pete In this country we HAVE to think outside the box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisheye56 Posted October 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Wow guys this site blows me away! How would you attach the kevlar, thought my joints would be like other designs with Vee and inverted Vee to get the side to side motion: Iam a bass fishing freak and would rather be fishing these baits ASAP some of the swim baits the guys have on this site are out of this world I'd be afraid to fish them {might loose first cast} I think I want to develop a working mans swim bait: Have made every mistake I know to make in the last 2 years on my crank baits, no air brush spray can paint jobs.If I can acheive good action slow sinking bait stay with natural forage bait colors and it works that will be big for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisheye56 Posted October 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Hillbilly,In the winter Allatoona is my home lake and Weiss is where my ranger and camper is at right now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillbilly1 Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 no smokeyj carter pin as in jimmy jk jk I spell just like I talk Its cotter Pin give a hillbilly a break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayupnorth36 Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 Hazmail Where could a guy find some kevlar thread or cloth? Is that the same stuff that they sell in fly-tying shops for spinning deer hair? And do you have any idea what pound test that would be equivalent to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 I think a heavy braid would be the same as Kevlar fabric, at least functionally. I recall that somebody here on TU has made jointed baits that way. I use stainless wire because it's easy to make and easy to adjust the gap between the segments. Using a braid or Kevlar thread seems like it would be akin to pushing a piece of cooked spagetti and keep it straight Maybe there's a trick to it I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokeyJ Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 No, I know hillbilly, I just didn't want any of our Northern members to go to the hardware store and get strange looks asking for carter pins. Back in Virginia where I used to live I am sure they would have known what I was talking about, but here in Indiana, I think they might be a little confused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 Sorry I did not mean kevlar thread but cloth, like fibre glass glass mat, I think they use it in carbon fibre car/bike fairings etc. Whatever they use, it is very light and can be a very fine weave. Maybe it's called carbon fibre cloth ! !. You could devcon it between the two halves of a split blank and leave the hinge part , where the joint is, bare (no resin). You could maybe even use a piece of old Nylon/Poly shirt, stand on that and try and tear it, or 'Ripstop' tent cloth, I'm really getting carried away now. pete We have to think outside the box here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjbass Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 I make many jointed baits, trolling baits and swim baits. They catch fish! My theory is "keep it simple"...I use screw eyes period....Here is a three piece swim bait I built for walleye and kept it simple. It has awesome action and catches fish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 What size screw eyes, and where do you get them? I've only been able to find .072 wire screw eyes, with holes about 3/32", the size of bare #12 copper wire. I'd love to find stainless steel eyes that are larger, with a longer screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjbass Posted October 29, 2007 Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 You can get .092 stainless screw eyes from Stamina. They make several lengths up to 2". Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisheye56 Posted October 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 Just a thought I will need to use eye 2 screws in the first joint, has anyone used ring clips did it effect the action? Does it work. Just thought when I try to line the two up don't you have to open one sides eyes up to put them together or am I missing something, will it effect the integrity of the eye screw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rollo Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 Fisheye- You can buy screweyes which have an open eye. Just pinch them closed with pliers. Try Stamina, Jann's or Moore's Lures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrhopkins Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 HazmailWhere could a guy find some kevlar thread or cloth? Is that the same stuff that they sell in fly-tying shops for spinning deer hair? And do you have any idea what pound test that would be equivalent to? i use Kevlar string for my hinge system. lots of flex, no stretch, no rusting, UV resistant and strong. see attached pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 Thanks for showing us your method JR! I alaways wondered but couldn't visualize it. Great job! Do you have any videos of them swimming? I am curious to see them in action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdhaeh Posted November 4, 2007 Report Share Posted November 4, 2007 Jr, your baits are really fantastic looking, and way to think out of the box on the hinges:yay: , but.... I have had braided line fail numerous times with hard short hooksets, and this makes me skeptical about using it as a joint material. I know that kevlar will hold a brick, so will mono, as long as that brick is not swaying back and forth. I am not trying to be negative in any way, but have you tested these joints for any extended period of time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borderbasser Posted November 4, 2007 Report Share Posted November 4, 2007 Speaking of braid has anyone tried some heavy braid for the hinges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snax Posted November 23, 2007 Report Share Posted November 23, 2007 i use Kevlar string for my hinge system. lots of flex, no stretch, no rusting, UV resistant and strong. see attached pics. I'm really interested in trying out your method of making these swimbaits but I'm curious as to how you clear coat them? I currently hinge my baits with two screw eyes and a stainless steel pin through them. I have to epoxy the sections independently and then assemble the pin through the screw eyes to join them. Problem for me is that sometimes it's hard to drill the hole for the pin straight and it will pop out in the wrong spot. For that matter is that how you other folks assemble this type of bait? I wish I could clear coat them when they are already assembled but the epoxy will foul up the joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted November 24, 2007 Report Share Posted November 24, 2007 Whew! If I made a six segment bait I'd be looking for something like Kevlar line too. Otherwise, I'd be having a breakdown after installing ten wire hinges! Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaPala Posted November 24, 2007 Report Share Posted November 24, 2007 I find success in using multi strand wire. The "spring" from the wire gives the lure a nice smooth bend. Vary the poundage of the wire to get the action and durability you want. Commercial design example be the Lucky Craft Sasara. Old old lure i made, multiple 2 piece laminated togather, wire joints bent tested to breakage at 60lb using 20lb wire Green lines are wire placement crimped in a loop. Link to video hosted courtesy of ArtBrush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
