Boskabouter Posted December 1, 2007 Report Share Posted December 1, 2007 I poured my first series of zander shads this week. Though I'm quite happy with the first results I came across some "challenges". This is what I did in the first place. Made a model of wood and pushed that in plaster, with the back of the model on top. I let the plaster mold harden for some days and then started to pour some baits. After pulling them out I notice that the sides and belly of the baits which are in contact with the plaster are dull, while the tops (back of the baits) are shiny. Secondly the tops of the baits are "collapsing" a little into a shallow slot. Don't know these are the exact words to describe the "challenges" but I guess you guys know what I mean. It also looks like the plaster isn't really that hard, I can push my nails easily into the surface of the plaster. What am I doing wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampBaits Posted December 1, 2007 Report Share Posted December 1, 2007 The 'collapsing' is nothing more than the plastic cooling, you might try to over pour the mold just a bit, then when the plastic cools, it won't make such a dip in the bait. As for shine. You need to coat the cavities with Devcon 2-ton epoxy, or some people claim emlers glue works. I usually put on three coats of thinned epoxy, which works well to achieve a nice shiny bait. As for your plaster still being soft like that...maybe you didn't mix the plaster the correct way? Also, you can put the mold in the over on a low temp for a few hours to dry it out more before you coat it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2007 That was fast Thanks for replying SwampBaits. Okay I will try what you've suggested, I guess it makes sense. While mixing the plaster I followed the instructions. This is special model plaster from the brand "Knauf". Nevertheless I willl make a new mold this week and then coat the cavity. Will keep you updated on the progress I'm hoping to make. Once again thanx, this forum is the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampBaits Posted December 1, 2007 Report Share Posted December 1, 2007 Never heard of Knauf. I suppose if you mixed the plaster right then it should be fairly hard after a few days if you stored it in a dry place. If you find that the plaster is the problem switch over to Plaster of Paris and you will found it's easy to work with. When coating you mold the first layer of devcon that you put on will mostly absorb into the plaster. Let it dry then apply a second 'thin' layer, let it dry and do a third. Then pour a bait and see if you missed any spots. Thin the devcon with some alcohol and make sure you get the 30(?) minute devcon. I think it's 30(might be 20 i forget!) minute....as long as you don't buy the 5 minute epoxy you'll be doing good. If you have any more questions just ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Elmer's Glue All works good also. You can thin it a little and brush it on or mix it 50/50 with water and pour into the cavity...let it set for a few minutes and drain. A few coats may be required to get the shine you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Thanx guys for all the help. Much appreciated since there's not much feedback overhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampBaits Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Thanx guys for all the help. Much appreciated since there's not much feedback overhere. Some weeks are quite slow on the posts, other weeks everyones here posting. Hit or miss sometimes. If you do a search at the top of the page you can find some pretty good advice. I'm going to have to try out the elmers glue to see how it holds up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinamike Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Boskabouter, try using an industrial floor wax made for a high speed buffer as a coating. I've got POP molds that are 6 & 7 years old, they still make great looking shiny baits. After your molds have dried, I mean really cured out, I immerse my mold in the wax overnight, then I blow all the excess wax off the mold and out of all small crevices. Let it dry a couple of days then I use a Qtip and a small amount of wax and give the mold a good coating, not just the cavity, but the top as well. Again blow off all excess wax. Then I let the mold dry directly in front of a fan. The drying usually takes place pretty fast. 30-45 minutes. After about 5 coats I let it dry overnight. Then I repeat the process again. You should start to notice that it's taking less and less wax to coat the mold and the mold should become smooth and shiny. I usually finish up with about 12 coats altogether. It's kind of time consuming, but after fifty or so baits, the polymers in the wax usually adhere to everything for life and make the mold more durable. Make sure the wax is made for use for a high speed (high rpm) buffer. The fast rotation of the buffer heats the polymers spreading them and making a shiny floor. They make a shiny mold too. If you need anymore information on this process, just let me know. Be sure and blow away all excess wax and if you wear glasses and your use your breath to blow off the wax it is very important to remove your glasses. Found out the hard way, safety glasses work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Some weeks are quite slow on the posts, other weeks everyones here posting. Hit or miss sometimes. If you do a search at the top of the page you can find some pretty good advice. I'm going to have to try out the elmers glue to see how it holds up! I meant to say there's not much feedback overhere in Holland Sorry for the misunderstanding. TU rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 @ Carolinamike: That sounds like a lot of work but definitaly worth since it makes your mold last longer. I'm a beginner at pouring baits so I'm still finding out what works best for me. What I find as a beginner is that one is tempted to get fast results, which isn't the right way. So I'm giving my next mold more attention in order to get the desired results. Once again thx for all the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 One other rec is to use a high gloss, water soluble, wall board prep. It lasts forever and dries in 1/2 hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2007 Living and learning the hard way..... I ruined another two plaster molds this week. The ceramic/ porcelain plaster seems to be very good but I just can't get the master out of the plaster without breaking it. The plaster I use gets hot while curing and becomes hard after an hour. It get's really hard and smooth on the outside so I guess that's okay. Thing is that I tried two different methods. One with the master sealed with Envirotex and then dipped in the plaster. Another master sealed with envirotex and then covered with vaseline and dipped in the plaster. I just can't get them out. I have to use the hammer to break the mold to get the masters out. So I have another few questions. -The pop you guys use does that get hot while curing? -When exactly do you dip in the master? I found that I had to wait 5 minutes before dipping in because otherwise the master started to rise/ float. - When do you pull it out? While the plaster is still curing or when it has completely cured? - Is there something else that I'm missing? Any input is welcome. I know this is a learning curve I'm going thru and I don't mind. I like messing around with this though some results would be welcome as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted December 14, 2007 Report Share Posted December 14, 2007 I think it would be best if you post some pics of the master and the mould, even if broken. I do two piece moulds. The masters are also made in two halves. I stick the half master down, build a box around it and pour the plaster in top. With this method I am guaranteed the correct split line. I generally remove the master about 30 minutes after hardening. Post the pics for a good answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 I don't think you can get a wood carving to release. I would make a wax carving or put your wood in RTV. Only thing I can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 @Vodkaman I dropped my Fuji in my livebait barrel so unfortunately I can't take any pics right now. I'm going out fishing with my brother this sunday so I'll try and lend his. @Longhorn Actually I was thinking the same now but before I always thought that all the other guys used wood. I'm going to give RTV a shot on this. I have some pours left from my first mold. Though they are dull on the sides and belly I'm going to give them a try on a new plaster mold today. They should release from the plaster. Thanks again guys for taking the time to answer my questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 I managed to make some pics today. The first one is the mold that I had to break. The wooden master on top. The second is the mold that I made today. I made this one by using some of my first poured baits and glue that upside down in a small box, then filled it with plaster. Third is the same mold with the softbait master on top. What I need to do next is sealing the cavities of the new mold with envirotex a couple of times to get the pours shine. I experimented with this in the broken mold and it works so far. I'm also, like Longhorn suggested, going to make an rtv mold of the original wooden master. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2007 I made some progress. I've got the shine on the pours! I coated the broken mold's cavity with Envirotex 3 times and voila the shine is there. Don't mind the baits shapes On top a dull pour, on the right after one coat and left after 3 coats. So it definately works. Thanks to all of you for the help! I sealed the good mold's cavity for the third time this evening so that should be ready by wednesday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted December 17, 2007 Report Share Posted December 17, 2007 Boskabouter, That's what a bait looks like when a pike short strikes. (LOL) Looks like your gaining on it. I have learned a ton and may have to look into pouring myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 Had to wait till today for the cavities to cure completely. Did a few pours this afternoon and they are getting better! They shine and the mold pours much better then my first ones. It looks like the sealer (envirotex) does a good job. However I only poured 6 baits so the future will tell if it holds after large numbers of pours. I didn't use any new plastic. I just cut up some old shads and heated them up in the microwave. Next step is to buy me some gallons of plastic and colours and mix some of my own. So far so good though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONKEYqpHUNTER Posted December 21, 2007 Report Share Posted December 21, 2007 i tried the elmers glue all and as far as i can tell its the best way to seal pop molds. its chep, quick, and easy to do. thanks longhorn..................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted December 21, 2007 Report Share Posted December 21, 2007 Oh no!! another one trapped. Boskabouter, there is no escape, you are doomed to a moldy life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2007 Hahaha, well if that's my fate, so be it I can imagine worse punishments.....(ssst the wife is looking over my shoulder) I really love doing these baits. Finally found a place here in the Neths where Elmers Glue All is sold. So I'm going to give that a shot on my next mold. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
