Biscuit Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 Hi guys I am new to the whole concept of tying bass jigs and painting jig heads, so I would love some guidance. My questions are; 1. Can I powder paint bass jigs with weedgaurds, and cure them, or will the weedgaurds melt in the process? 1A. I went to powder paints website they stated that I could bake the jig at 250 for a longer period of time, but I would rather ask people who have already attemted this. 2. Would I be better off painting and tying the jig and then inserting the weedgaurd, or will the paint fill the caity were the weedgaurd is suppose to go? I appreciate any insights and tips. Thanks Biscuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 The answer to your question is yes, you can paint and cure jigs with the weedguard in place but it's much easier to do it without. You can cover the weedguard with teflon tubing or aluminum foil to heat and paint the jigs then cure it in an oven at 250-270 for a longer period of time but it's tedious to say the least. The best method I've found is to leave the weedguard out and epoxy in place after painting and curing. To keep the weedguard cavity free of paint is simple also, just go to a home depot or hardware store and buy some 1/8" dowel rod and cut small sections and place in the hole before painting, once it's painted simply remove and cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawgwild Posted December 5, 2007 Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 Hey biscuit....just started powder coating my jigs myself and having a blast with it...as someone somewhat new to this I would offer a couple of tips I've learned myself and from the good folks on this board... I believe you would find it much easier to coat your jigs without the weedguard....I've done it both ways and only coat without the guards now...plus it's easier to hang them in my little toaster oven without them on there also... Haven't tried inserting the little 1/8 inch dowels before powdering them but likely will next batch I do...what I do now is drill the hole back out with a 1/8" drill....Just be careful to keep the proper alignment...works OK.... Have a small wire handy when you dip your jigs....Sometime the powder will clog up the eye of the jig....just push the wire through the eye to clear it as soon as you dip it and before you cure it....I just took an old spinnerbait I had, cut off the end and use that.. I learn a little something everytime I make a little batch so suggest you start with just a few...say 2-4 jigs...and completely finish them out before making another batch.... Hope that helps a little and enjoy.. Scottie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biscuit Posted December 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2007 Wow you guys are a tremendous help. I have learned a lot already in the two days I have been bouncing around this site. By the way I was searching and Jannsnetcraft sells 50 of the base hole pins for $5. That might work just as well as the dowel rod and I wouldn't have to cut them. I am unsure though if I want to get into lead pouring (not just yet) I may see if I can find someone who will pour the jigs for me and then I will take over from there (the painting and inserting of the weedguards). I have two little kids who are always hanging on me and the thought of hot lead scares the pants off of me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikel7@mac.com Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 I Cut A Finish Nail And Incert It In The Hole Because I Use A Propane Burner To Heat My Jigs. ( Impatient ) I Also Use It On The Molds I Modify As A Lead Stopper. You May Have To Sand Or File Just A Little To Make It Work, But It Won't Catch On Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munkin Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 Here is my method: Pour the jig Wiggle the basepin some so that is loose Powdercoat jig with basepin still in Wiggle the basepin again until it is seperated from the jig Bake jig with basepin in Remove basepin and glue in weedguard with superglue GEL The basepins that you use will build up powderpaint on them so I have some just for curring paint. If you do not wiggle and seperate the basepin during the steps it will become a perminate part of your jighead. Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass1jay Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 Here is my method reverse your fiberweed guard while pouring lead. The fused end of guard will prevent flaring during the bake cycle at 250-275 for 20 minutes. Then cut off the fused end after curing saves you 2 steps this way.If you are tying your jigs then the way to go is use the pin method.I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve snider Posted February 23, 2008 Report Share Posted February 23, 2008 I tried leaving the gaurd on reversed and it frayed a little when curing heated at 225 for 25 min. thanks for the tip bass1 Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass1jay Posted February 26, 2008 Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 Steve, I use a toaster oven for baking the rack is about 5 inches high.All ovens heat a differently you will have to try different cure times and heat to prevent fraying.I also use a baking timer as not to forget I have a batch in the oven nothing worse than the smell of molten weed guards!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
