fisheye56 Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 Yesterday I was in my local tackel shop and there was a new line of dropshot baits. You guys see the same thing I do 5.00 for 5 baits! I kown they are hand poured and some are silicone.If I was to start making just the small stuff starting out I have a shop under the house.{ I have a ranch over garage.} Will the smell get into the house? My Ranger is under there and I don't smell the oders it gives off. The deal is my shop is right under me and momma's bed! I don't even know if I will enjoy making baits but I think I would.If there is not a mold that suits me can I make my own?I just was on Del Mar they didn't have what I wanted.Any help in starting direction would be great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 Hey fisheye....Go for it!!! I am down in Valdosta, GA... I think you will be OK if you can vent to the outside. You can make your own mold and design your own bait even. Just look around here on TU and you can find all you need!!! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 Depending on the age of the house, current building codes require a vapor barrier be in place between warm and cool zones. Normally, a garage space is considered a cool space and should have a vapor barrier between your work space and Momma’s bed. The code wasn’t enforced very well 25 to 30 years ago, but newer dwellings should be okay. THAT SAID, better to be safe than sorry, venting the fumes out a door or window is just good insurance, add a fan to push that air. About making your own molds, go for it. There are good threads started on TU every day. You may want to start off with a simple, low tech approach like Plaster of Paris (aka: PoP). After you perfect your bait, you can take actions to make it more repeatable… Like Jim sez, Go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisheye56 Posted January 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 Ok, I seen POP and didn't have a clue what that stood for. Can POP be heated in a Micro. I was just thinking about durams rock hard wonder if that would work?thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBC Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 POP stands for plaster of paris. And yes, some of us use durhams water putty as well. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisheye56 Posted January 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 will those products handle the microwave? If the answer is yes how long do they last? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 Both pop and durham's are products used to make molds with. You will not be putting them into the microwave, just the plastic that you heat up to pour into these molds. Both mold types would need to be sealed with a sealer such as devcon 2 ton, e tex, elmers glue, valspar, etc. You can search TU for more way more info on these subjects! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisheye56 Posted January 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 Guys, I can't thank you enough. I think I have enough info to get started.{ read a thread on pop molds} Will start to make my first molds soon.Want to do finesse drop shot minnow type and small 4" worms.While the mouse is still running in my head,doesen't a robo worm have a flat side?Is that because it is poured in a mold like what I'm going to try with POP and durams?The next thing after molds are finished with the elemers coatings I ought not to get to anal about scales or rings depending on worm or bait fish RIGHT?I want to start slow and then catch fish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lure_learning Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 Most all Roboworm products have a flat side. Good luck with the adventure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 As long as the coating is thin enough, detail is maintained, but fish could care less about minor details; lure action says it all! The problem with boot tails is getting them out of the mold. I think I'll have to buy RV silicone make make the swimbaits tha I have prototypes. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassnRandy Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 Durhams water putty takes alot longer to dry than pop. I have used both and stick to pop now. Water putty is harder and stronger but holds alot more air bubbles in bigger batches. At least this has been my experiance so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smallie Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 I find that if I get any of the powders - POP, Durhams or Ultracal - too wet, you get bubbles. I would have thought it would be the other way around and the bubbles would float to the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisheye56 Posted January 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 Thanks, I have durams at the house and durabond 20 my first attempt will be with both.I'm think though I already have a dilemma depending on how I place the clay object and glue it down to the surface that my forms go around I think there is a flaw in my thinking. The minnow type baits are going to look simular in profile to fin shad, tiny fluke, or Hog shad type finess baits. Am I not going to have a problem getting these small slender tails with forks to release and come out of the POP mold?I thought to glue it in the up right position like it swims but then will it be a problem for the heated plastic to flow into the tail section?Fill the void then after it cools come out intacted?I was thinking that to have a flat spot on the bait, the top would not effect the action of the minnow Another thing because of the shape the tail section will be funerable to breakage because it is so thin in the tail section.{Part of the main body will be glued and tail hanging in the air}Guys am I over thinking this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 You may need to rethink your deployment plan. Instead of going for perfection the first time out of the starting gate, you may need to experiment some to determine what you can and cannot do. Nobody starts out running with first learning to walk. Take your time and the learning curve will go pretty qiuck. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
