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Mountain Man 26

Prism Shad

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Doesn't the belly also have green hi-lite?

I hope this is the color we're talking about - LOL.......

prism.jpg

I don't see any green in this one, but then again........I'm not getting any younger. :lol:

But hey........green sounds like a great idea. Might make a really nice shad/rainbow trout type color. I say go for it!!

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Alright guys, I just went and got out my last one. Have been saving it to match because Robo discontinued the color.

Looking at Chris' pic, the bottom(belly) is clear w/ green hi-lite and black.015 flake, a pink or light violet with violet hi-lite vein, and a clear with blue hi-lite back. It does look alot like a trout.

This color works well in the rocky lakes west of the Dallas area, what we Texans call clear. I figured the Cali guys bought this color by the metric ton, couldn't believe it got discontinued.

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Yup.....that's why I poured it for this one particular dude.............because they discontinued it. It could very well have some green in it, but I went strictly by the picture and I poured it for about a year and a half. He never complained, so I assumed it was good enough. :huh:

......and you're right.......he would order 1000 at a time. I think that was the only worm he fished. You're also right about the green. If I were to do it over again, I would add a little green hi-lite in there. :yes:

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Al, may I ask, when pouring a worm like this one, what temp. should you want your plastic to be, and how quickly do you need to pour your next color? I have bonding problems when I attempt this. This is such a fantastic color that I would like to try it, but don"t want to waste more plastic. Thanks

David

David,

I was never a temperature guy. To be honest, I never used a thermometer. Let's just say.......HOT! :lol:

My plastic was very runny, and I would pour the 3 colors almost immediately after each other. A bonding problem only occurs when you're not doing one of the 2 things mentioned: 1) plastic isn't hot enough, or 2) you're waiting too long in between pours. This is when you get "cold cracks".....and in my opinion, poor quality. This is why I never could figure out how a guy pours a decent core shot worm (vein is entirely surrounded by the bait) without cold cracks. Hats off to 'em if they can!

Basically, you pour your clear (blue hilite), then immediately pour your pink. If you're doing it fast enough (and the plastic is hot enough), the pink should "split", giving the worm a look of 2 distinct stripes down the side of the bait. Your last color is also poured immediately after the pink.

Try it with one cavity at a time. Takes a bunch of practice, but in time you should be able to work with several cavities.

Good luck!

(and btw......sorry for the novel) :huh:

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David,

I was never a temperature guy. To be honest, I never used a thermometer. Let's just say.......HOT! :lol:

My plastic was very runny, and I would pour the 3 colors almost immediately after each other. A bonding problem only occurs when you're not doing one of the 2 things mentioned: 1) plastic isn't hot enough, or 2) you're waiting too long in between pours. This is when you get "cold cracks".....and in my opinion, poor quality. This is why I never could figure out how a guy pours a decent core shot worm (vein is entirely surrounded by the bait) without cold cracks. Hats off to 'em if they can!

Basically, you pour your clear (blue hilite), then immediately pour your pink. If you're doing it fast enough (and the plastic is hot enough), the pink should "split", giving the worm a look of 2 distinct stripes down the side of the bait. Your last color is also poured immediately after the pink.

Try it with one cavity at a time. Takes a bunch of practice, but in time you should be able to work with several cavities.

Good luck!

(and btw......sorry for the novel) :huh:

Al, thanks for info. I did not think that was a novel, I read it in one sittin'.

:D

David

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Alright guys, I just went and got out my last one. Have been saving it to match because Robo discontinued the color.

Looking at Chris' pic, the bottom(belly) is clear w/ green hi-lite and black.015 flake, a pink or light violet with violet hi-lite vein, and a clear with blue hi-lite back. It does look alot like a trout.

This color works well in the rocky lakes west of the Dallas area, what we Texans call clear. I figured the Cali guys bought this color by the metric ton, couldn't believe it got discontinued.

Where did you get your info on the Prizm Shad being discontinued. Robo has issued a list of discontinued colors and Prizm Shad is NOT on the list. To confirm this, I had my local shop call. It is NOT discontinued.

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A local retailer here told me. He is the largest Robo dealer in this area. I believe I also read it on one of the online retailer's site, maybe tackle wharehouse.

Possibly they were discontinuing it and I misunderstood. Didn't mean to cause any confusion. It's a great color and again, I can't imagine it being a poor seller, especially out west.

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Chris I think that you and I pour much the same when it comes to temps. I tried messing around with a candy themometer but it was just a pain in the butt to me. I just go by what the plastic looks like(thinness) when I'm pouring layers.

www.novalures.com

Exactly Nil. I don't think I knew what a thermometer was when I started pouring. :lol:

As for the prism shad color being discontinued, that's what I was told by my customer too. He could have been wrong as I never checked on that.

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