squigster Posted January 17, 2008 Report Share Posted January 17, 2008 Hello, I have a general question about dipping tubes. I am using Calhouns softest plastic and the problem is that the plastic is too soft for my liking for tube baits and I was wandering if adding salt to it would help make it more like typical tube plastic, and if so, could anyone suggest a plastic to salt ratio that would work well. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted January 17, 2008 Report Share Posted January 17, 2008 Salt will harden the bait and so will hardener. if you want to add salt start with 1/8 cup to 1cup of plastic that will harden the bait a tad. if you have no hardener set the plastic aside for 1-2 days the plastic will settle take one cup out of a gallon off the top( don't throw it out save it). then shake the heck out of it cook it ,let it set and see how that works if it is too hard add a tad more softener( the stuff you took out) what type of plastic did you get soft med or hard? Just in case you know that you need the mix the crap out of plastic before using it and wait 10-20 hours before you decide if its to soft or hard. I found the med works best but thats just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted January 17, 2008 Report Share Posted January 17, 2008 You are going to have to add hardner (several tablespoons for 4 ounces of plastic) or maybe cook the heck out of it before you will get it to the right consistency. Best bet is to order additonal plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted January 17, 2008 Report Share Posted January 17, 2008 Buy a gallon of #500 formula from Lurecraft,and you won't need to add anything,unless you want to. The only time I made a soft tube using the soft formula,was when I made some tubes for drop shoting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubeman Posted January 17, 2008 Report Share Posted January 17, 2008 Like Bojon said, your plastic is too soft. You need a Tube or Salt Water formula to dip tubes. Your going to find that cutting the tail skirts is a pain as the strands rip easily when you use soft plastic as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr316 Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 I don't know, when I dip tubes I want the tails soft, yeah they rip easier and are a slight pain to cut but there action is 3 times that of tube plastic, the plastic I use for the body dip is soft plastic with salt added, (about a 1/2 a cup of salt for every cup of plastic (seems like alot but works for me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubeman Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 A good idea ! just posted that as most want to use one formula Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squigster Posted January 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Thanks for you comments. I do really appreciate it. I also had a problem with the plastic leaving a small drip on the head of the bait. I tried shaking it lightly and turning the tube at different angles but most still left a small drip on the head after they dried. Is there a trick to this? The other issue is that I dipped the tubes twice (after the first dip completely dried) and the walls still were like an old gitzit (a thin wall) Does the salt make the walls thicker like the typical douple dipped tubes you see on the market? I want a fairly thick tube such as I use for flippin' Any suggestions would again be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charkins Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Problem Drip: When you dip the rod, let the plastic run off. When it just about stops, turn the rod up with the head of the tube facing up. The drip will then run back down on the body of the tube. Problem Thin walls: There are several variables here, how hot the plastic is, salt or other additives, what type of plastic you are using. I use LC 500 plastic and add about 1/4 cup of salt to cup of plastic. If you start dipping when the plastic is still real hot, you will get thin walls. Wait until it is too thick, and the walls will be real thick. If you start dipping and it is way too hot, you may have to add an additional dip. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 I agree with Charkins here,as well as the rest of the posters.Most of my tubes are for my own use,so I worry not if I have some tubes that may be too thin.They do tear up easy but they do great at catching fish,and after all,that is the bottom line. I have in the past dipped the main body, which will become the tail, in softer plastic,then a second dip,of much harder plastic for the main body(the 60% of the tube).This would make a tougher head,but I really didn't see the need.As far as the Gitzit goes,I still think they were the best ever,and I think we should all thank Bobby Garland for his inovation of one of the finest bass catching soft lures. I give away a bunch of tubes every year to my fishing buds,but the tubes that are at the end of a run that are so heavy with salt that the become fragile are the ones that I keep.I care less about them tearing up,they seem too fish best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Sorry about a second post,but what material used in the constuction of the dipping rods makes the best single dip,not counting salt,and temp?I use mostly aluminum,and have since the beginning,but that don't mean it is the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr316 Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 The thin walls is all about temperature control, I (for now) vertical dip single rods, I am in the process of making a jig to dip multiple rods. When I dip it usually is in two phases, I dip all the way in first, set the rod aside and dip all my rods like this, then I dip the body part of the tube afterwards. To control the drip do just like Charkins said, or you can try "rolling" the dipping rod, catching that drip and forming a thicker head for Texas rigging, that takes alot of practice but I get mine to turn out about 90% of the time. The thickness of your tubes comes from temperature control or multiple dips, if its to hot just keep dipping till it becomes as thick as you want it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 I've always thought it might be the tempature of the rod causing the plastic to congel on the rod.I always keep my dipping plastic on the cool side.Seemed when I dipped in my garage it seemed the rods that been setting in the cold garage gathered the plastic better.I guess it is the same as cooler plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squigster Posted January 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 Thanks for your opinions guys. Bojon I watched your video a while back and I am horizontally dipping. I tried vertical but I always got air bubbles real bad on the second dip for some reason. I am also using aluminum. I bought 24 ft of 1/4" dia. rod and 24 ft of 3/8" dia rod and had my brother (poor guy) cut them into 5" lengths, lightly machine them and put a small chamfer on the front ends and drill oout the centers. He wanted to kill me. LOL The dipping worked well, I think I am using too soft of plastic and also I had the temp on the hot plate up there a little bit so thats probably why they were so thin walled. I am going to order some Lurecraft 500 plastic with some salt and give it another try. I do have one question. Did you ever try and taper the rods? He made a few of those for me and they look real nice dipped but were a bugger to get off the rod. Thanks again for all of your guys insight and suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 Get the 3 #500 formula,and thing will go better.I never tried a tapered rod,but with enough of the Pam type spray you shoul be able to remove it without damage.Let me know how you make out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWO Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 I just did an experiment with different rod materials. I dipped with aluminum, brass and steel rods in clear plastic with no dye or other additives and then checked the wall thickness. I did my best to keep the temperature of the plastic, dipping technique, and speed consistent. I used the horizontal dipping method doing only one dip. I then checked the wall thickness of each tube with dial calipers. Due to the nature of the material it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishinfool/2 Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 guys been trying the vertical dipping works pretty good is that video on the horizontal methor still out there somewhare to view. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabskie Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 Hey fishinfool/2,,,,that video is posted on thread July 12 2007 #23 or try http://www.tackleunderground.comvid...etut bojon.wmv hope that gets you there,,, dabskie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabskie Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 Let me try that again, http://www.tackleunderground.com/vid...etut_bojon.wmv Thread is titled "Tubes,,I need to make some" Under July 12 2007 #23,,,,,,,,I'm new at this too so hope it gets you there,,,good video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 SWO,GREAT TEST! Thank you very much.I have used steel very little.Nails and wire mostly.Looks like steel rod making time when I get time.Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 SWO, I was very surprised at the results. I expected the metal with the highest thermal conductivity (the speed at which heat travels through the metal) to cool the plastic faster and give the thinnest wall. I assumed brass would give the thinnest, steel second and aluminum third. I looked up the figures. The higher the figure, the more heat is moved. Aluminum 124 Brass 67 Steel 21 I was surprised that aluminum was the most conductive, I guess that is why my eggs burn in my aluminum cooking pots. Also, the results of your test, very accurately reflects the figures above. So, if you want thicker walls, you need to use more insulating materials. The conductivity of glass is 0.8, this would theoretically give a very thick wall, but in practice, the plastic would flow or drip away and take forever to cool down. The link below gives some figures for different metals, the lower the figure, the thicker the wall. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-metals-d_858.html Depending on which site you view, the figures vary, but the overall trend is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 I looked up the figures. The higher the figure, the more heat is moved. Aluminum 124 Brass 67 Steel 21 I was surprised that aluminum was the most conductive, I guess that is why my eggs burn in my aluminum cooking pots. Vman. Why do you think American beer went from tin cans to Aluminum back in the late 60s or early 70s. If you're going to drink cold beer, you want it cold fast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charkins Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 I use 1/4 inch bolts that are 5 1/2 inches long to vertical dip tubes. I attach a piece of dowel rod to the head of the bolt so they will stand vertically. All I can tell you is that it works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squigster Posted January 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 TonightI used the aluminum rods my brother made for me and I horizontally dipped them. The first couple had too much Pam on them and they started sagging as soon as I lifted them out. The second batch went better, but I noticed the following. A previous post said 1/4 cup salt to one cup of plastic. The plastic looked like oatmeal. It was so thick I could barely stir it. Is this right? I added a whole other cup of plastic to thin it down. What is the general consensus on dipping? IS vertical better than horizontal or vise versa. The horizontal was easy enough but 3/8" rod sucks up a good bit of plastic and poof there went two cups in about 18 douple dipped tubes. As far as steel vs aluminum it sounds like it might be best to use aluminum for the basstrix stuff so the bait is not so thick and you could get more layers without building up the bait a whole lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 If you are going to go into high production you should go with the vertcal dip with steel rods,but on the other hand by using a 1/4 inch aluminum rod horizotally you have much better control.I use this because a lot of my tubes,are more than one color,some as many as four.Example,say you want a shad type color,first you dip the body,let it cool down a bit,then barely dip it in a back color,cool,then rotate the tube one the rod 180 degs and barely dip in a belly color,then maybe a very light dip at the nose only in red.You end up with a nice looking tube like no other,and it won't be too thick.The steel rods may make the tubes way too fat,but at the same time it may be what the fish want,and thats the bottom line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
