bassman843 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 I haven't had a problem with my lee pots until recently the last 3 batches I have made the plastic burned on me.I was wondering if the the coil could go bad or temp setting knob would have went bad any suggestions thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pastorshane Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Have you changed plastic brands, or is this a new batch? Maybe the plastic. Just an idea, not sure about the pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassman843 Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 I use lc 536 from the same gallon jug I've been using for a while.I have a stirrer built for it that constantly stirs while I pour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 The temp control does go bad from time to time, in the last year or 2 Lee has been using controls made in china. since they been using the newer controls there been some issues with them one of my customers said that he has to replace them ever 6-7 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinamike Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 I have 6 Lee pouring pots, 2 small 4 large that we use in our hand pour operation. Everyone of them the temperature is different. You will find the lower the plastic gets in the pot, the hotter it gets. After a year of trial and error and no matter how low you set the temperature, I was still burning plastic. One day while shopping at Lowe's, I discovered a dimmer switch for a lamp. You plug the dimmer switch into your outlet and then plug the pouring pot into the dimmer switch. This gives you a whole lot more temperature control. I don't use an automatic stirrer, I just stir regularly with a butter knife while I am pouring. This helps me to keep a closer eye on the plastic. I use LC 536. When your plastic is coming out of the spout, if it is smoking, then you are getting close to burning and most likely you are going to have a color change. Remember each pot is different. I've got one that you have to set on 5 to heat it up, 3/4 of the way through I have to turn the temperature completely down and adjust the dimmer switch. I have another one that I only have to turn the pot up to 4 but halfway through I have to turn the heat down. I think you will find this true with most Lee pots and remember if you are adding salt, it tends to heat up faster and hold heat longer, so you really have to pay attention here. We've used them for years. Just be patient, learn your adjustments and write them down so you will remember what you have done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Great tips Mike! I never thought of using a dimmer switch and stopped using the pot because the spot clogs when using larger salt crystals and flakes over .040. I also have had a problem of wasting small amounts of plastic due to temp problems as well as the difficulty of cleaning the pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 One of my Friends has been using lee pouring pots for many years. This may or maynot help some of you. (I don't know as I don't use them anymore) Using Lee Production Pots Pouring plastic with pots can be effectively accomplished, providing one simple rule is followed: The user must control the heat in each pot to keep the plastic at the correct temperature without over-heating. To accomplish this, the user must understand how the pot works and what accessories are needed for proper monitoring. How the Pot Works Production pots are heated using a heating coil similar to an electric stove element. This coil is located inside the casing of the pot, about one inch from the bottom. Power to the heating coil is controlled by a thermostatic switch which is located in the case behind the pot, and attached to a user control switch. A common misconception is that the thermostat switch adjusts the power level ( and thus the heat ) supplied to the heating coil. It does not. It simply turns full power on or off to the coil. The control knob on top of the thermostat is used to find the point at which electrical contact is made to supply full power to the coil. The numerical level of the knob for electrical contact can vary from pot to pot. The thermostat senses the radiant heat of the pot and opens or closes the electrical contacts depending on this radiant heat. This is important to understand if the pots are located in a very cold or hot location, as the surrounding air temperature can affect the temperature being sensed by the thermostat, and cause power to be supplied or turned off at incorrect pot temperatures. Having wind or a fan blowing directly on the pots can also affect thermostat operation. The biggest problem facing the user is that he has no way to tell when full power to the heating coil is on or off. Thus, he is always in danger of over-heating the plastic and burning it. With this in mind, I have developed several accessories and procedures to help keep plastic at the correct pouring temperature. Temperature Control Accessories Thermostat Power Light Adding a light to the thermostat power wire will enable the user to always tell whether the pot 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassman843 Posted February 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 I added a dimmer switch to my pouring station this helps but can you bypass the control knob all together in the lee pot to make the heating more consistant between pots by using only the dimmer switch I pour using 2 lee pots one is modified for stand up molds and one for everything else.the stand up one gets really hot fast and the other one takes a while to warm up just want to get both of them on one level I guess. has anyone else tried anything like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinamike Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 You have the same trouble I'm experiencing, after 7 years the only thing I can tell you, you just have to learn your pots. All of mine are different, I don't really have one that heats up the same as the others, and Del is absolutely right on the way the heat control works for the Lee pot. My problem was even with the pot turned all the way down, it was still burning plastic. The dimmer switch did eliminate the problem. I actually have one pot that I have to start it heating 10 minutes before the others when I am doing 2 colors. For some reason this pot heats up slower than the others. But once it reaches temperature, it actually runs hotter than the rest. The only other thing I know you can do is add a temperature control, similar to the one on LC's pressure pot. PM me and can tell you where to get one but I'm not the person to tell you how to hook it up. I do know if you do this, you will also have to mount a temperature sensor on the pot. I'm just not sure of how much expense you will have in it after you're through. But again, after getting to know each of my pots, we do very well with them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downstream Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I had found the same problems witht he lee pots. I also went the route of mouting a dimmer switch to the outside of the base via a normal electrical box. I turn the thremostat to full on and control the heat using the dimmer switch only. I have wired it directly into the incoming power plug. I drill a small hole into the top of the pot and insert a weber grill thermometer into the hole so that it sits inside the inner/outer walls of the pot. I have had better luck with this set-up, but I think ultimately the 2-3 wrap coil design for the heating element will always limit successful temp control. The best safety would be a full pot. My new direction is using a presto pot. I have modified this recently to try it for more consistancy. The pot is large, but because I normally pour two color worms I fabricated an aluminum divider to go down the middle. I have attached a pour valve/spout to both sides of the divided pot. Now with one heat control I can control both colors. The presto pot is cast aluminum with a heat ring around the bottom. It is amazing how quickly and evenly the heat movs around the pot. The teflon coating is also better for clean-up. There is also a glass lid which I think helps keep the pot heat more consistent. I have tried a few pours so I am still learning, but I think this has promise. If I was doing large volume and/or single color worms this is definately the way to go. I also built a simple stand to sit the pot on that I can control the tilt and pouring height for different types of molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinamike Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 The presto pot sounds real interesting, especially the way your heating two colors. Do you have a picture or two you would share? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downstream Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I just ran out in the shop and snapped a few. This is my first attempt at posting photos. You can also see my dimmer switch modified lee pots in the background. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 Thanks Downstream. How did you seal the divider ? Are you pre cooking in the micro wave ? Have you tried mounting the platform for the pot on 4 - 1/2" Threaded rods with thumb nuts for quick adjustment of height and angle ? I like this idea for two color pouring. JSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downstream Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I used hi-temp automotive gasket cauking I bought at the local ace hardware. I originally tried JB Weld to secure the divider, but it would not stick to the teflon. As far as adjustment I put two 5/16 bolts through the top of the pouring table with nut/washers on both side so I can screw up/down to increase tilt. I am currently heating the plastic completely in the presto pot. I have used the microwave from time to time, but not normally. That is just my preference. I angled the divider at the top so I can still use the glass lid that comes with the pot. I think it helps maintain a more even heat. I am currently using Calhoun plastic, but I am looking at trying MF or going back and trying some more LC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 Thanx Downstream Now you have me thinking if 2 stirring rigs can be mounted in this to keep MF from settling so bad ?? I have been using a piece of plywood to cover the pot ... I know from past when I cooked in an old Sears (Kenmore) Pot that if I covered it I got a lot better cook. (I poured then with a sta warm wax dropper). Thanx again JSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 This is a great thread. Thanks for sharing it Bryanmc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
