BruceKY Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 What make of clear do some of you use between layers of water based createx. I would like to have something I could spray over layers of createx that will dry quickly and allow the next layer to be wiped off if I ever made a mistake. LOL I could use epoxy but that is too thick in most cases and takes too long to dry. Thanks in advance, Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 I'd look for a clear acrylic latex that you can shoot just like the colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braveviper Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Doesnt createx make a clear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dampeoples Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 They do make a clear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altimas Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Yeah they make a clear it looks milks in the bottle. Works good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceKY Posted February 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Thanks I looked at Michaels and didnt see it. I will have to ask next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJ Smith Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Be careful with the createx clear.... it has sometimes milked on the bait and actually changed (dulled) the color.... I have gone to a clear gloss spray polyurethane and let it dry overnight. I know it is not fast but works great. Hope this helps....... BJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Wow, BJ, I've never had that happen with the Createx clear, then again, I most often use the Parma clear, not that I can tell any difference between it and the Createx. I use some Parma clear on every bait to cover my signature if nothing else, and can never tell that it is there in the finished bait. However, even after thoroughly heat-treating the Parma or Createx clear, you wouldn't want to rub too hard on it to remove paint; a quick swipe with a damp rag should take care of removing a just-applied unwanted detail or two, but if you might want to remove an entire coat of paint, I go with BJ's poly deal. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJ Smith Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Hi Dean, Yes... it has happened to me twice (I am a slow learner)... both while painting white - shad type cranks.... I now have some Parma but have not played with it yet.... I love Createx so maybe I stored it wrong or got a bad bottle, or something... but it definately dulled/clouded the paint....... Hope you are staying warm up there......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 I have been using Artists Pastel Fixative for a while- spray it on and its dry in about 15 seconds. pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 Pete, That's brilliant! Not only outside the box, it's outside the bottle and can! How does it hold up to water if you have to wipe off some paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borderbasser Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I have used Minwax Polyacrylic. It is like a waterbased polyurethane. You can heat set it with a dryer and it won't take too long to dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I use the Minnwax as a sealer, but never thought of heat setting it to use as an intermediate clear. I'll have to try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lure--Prof Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I have been using Artists Pastel Fixative for a while- spray it on and its dry in about 15 seconds. pete That's another idea that sounds good, thanks Pete! Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Pete,That's brilliant! Not only outside the box, it's outside the bottle and can! How does it hold up to water if you have to wipe off some paint? Mark - I use water based acrylics (Tamiya and Jo Sonja mainly) and just spray this sealer over a color to stop them being reactivated by the next layer. Because it is so thin and matte, I would suspect it may be difficult to remove the new paint layer completely, if it was a gloss coat it would be easier, but then the next layer would not stick so well. Could be worth testing first, I often wipe it over with petroleum spirits ('Shellite') to remove finger fat etc, before top coating, with no affect. Incidentally shellite will not effect water based paints either, printers use it all the time, to degrease printing plates etc. I don't think I have ever needed to remove a complete layer of paint - just shows how exacting the paint work is *** I wish. If this is not clear enough and you need to know more, please ask , I'm happy to help. pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Pete, That's really clear. Thanks. I haven't had any problems with "finger fat" so far. My hands are so dry, and I am careful not to grip the fresh paint, but use a hemostat to hold the lures when painting, and opened up paper clips to hold and hang them between coats while I'm painting another lure the same color, or while I change colors. Lately, I've been spraying a solvent based rattle can glitter over my baits before I top coat them, and heat setting it with a hair dryer, and haven't had any finger fat/finger print problems. Of course, that's with big lures. When I repaint cranks (I haven't tried making my own so far), I have a bill to hold, so finger prints aren't an issue. It looks like you use latex gloves on your hands when you paint. Good idea. I'm going to have to try that, although doing it bare handed saves so much on finger nail polish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceKY Posted February 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 I went back to Michaels. They don't seem to carry the createx clear and the girls I talked to knew very little about it. I did pick up a can of Krylon "UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating". The can says it dries in 10-15 min and is "moisture-resistant". I will let everyone know how it works when it warms up enough to paint in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Mark - I am having a contamination problem at the moment and am very fastidious about cleaning and sealing every coat, I wear the latex gloves only sometimes, when it's hot, they pose more problems than they solve with the sweaty hands etc. I am now suspecting may I have an old batch of D2T or have some oil in my alcohol (heaven forbid) or cleaning spirit. It drives me crazy, I get one lure with near perfect finish and the next is covered in craters. I suppose this is what keeps us addicted, spending more time analyzing problems than making lures. I have just foiled four 2" lures, it's going to be interesting seeing the finished product, as you cannot help mauling them at this size.pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 Pete, One other thing might be a leaky oil seal in your compressor. If you have another compressor, try switching and see if it still happens. Although a water separator should take care of oil, but you never know. Otherwise, it sounds like it's time to purge the system. Dump the thinner, the epoxy, and every other "wet" part of your finishing system, and start fresh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 Thanks Mark, I never thought of that, I have a new compressor but that does not mean much. pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muskyman Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 What make of clear do some of you use between layers of water based createx. I would like to have something I could spray over layers of createx that will dry quickly and allow the next layer to be wiped off if I ever made a mistake. LOL I could use epoxy but that is too thick in most cases and takes too long to dry. Thanks in advance, Bruce BruceKY, I found that out of all the different spray fixatives out there the one that worked best for me is found @ any Michael's store. It's Krylon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muskydan666 Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 hi!The best is to do it right the first time!!When i screw up a paint job i reprime it and do a other one!Thats it!A few years ago i was repriming a lot of them!!lol!!But now it's not that bad!!LOL!!cheers.Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
