txbazzman Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 I have a couple of questions about painting plastic crankbaits. 1. Do I have to seal the Plastic before I paint the plastic crankbait? 2. If I want to repaint an old plastic crankbait what is the best way to take the paint off? If sanding what grits? Thank you. I have found a lot of info on painting wooden crankbaits but not plastic. I have never done this before but want to try. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basseducer Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 txbazzman, You don't have to seal plastic cranks, but it helps to rough up the surface a little with some fine sand paper. It helps the paint stick better and gets rid of the join marks where the two halves come together. On pre-painted baits, you would also wand to rough up the surface a bit. TJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txbazzman Posted February 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 Well I stripped the paint off with a razor blade carefully and the sanded it with 150 then followed up with 220. Does this sound right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basseducer Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 I don't know that I would strip the old paint all the way off (IMHO), I kind of use the old paint as a guide to keep both sides even. Just be careful not to leave any flat spots or gouges with that razor blade. If it feels good paint it and float it. TJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txbazzman Posted February 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 Well I stripped the paint off cause I read that the added weight affects how it runs and that the added paint dulls the sound of the rattle. Is this true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlcam Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 I have been doing this very thing lately.I have been sanding a little,and on some I have removed all the paint and some I haven't.The first thing I do after sanding is paint with Krylon Fusion and then paint.If you want the bait to be clear in some areas,after you sand it there will be scratches,but when you clear coat it they will disappear.All this I learned thanks to the guys on here.I have been using rattle cans and so far have had pretty good luck.I am going out of town this week,when I get back I will post some pics.Hope this helped....Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txbazzman Posted February 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 I have noticed that everyone talks about white as a base coat. If The main color is going to be something else should I use a KRylon that is close to that color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basseducer Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 A white base coat makes your other colors a little brighter and a must if you use florescent colors. Plus it's always a good belly color. TJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkie Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 I use a white base coat. In extreme cases where the original paint (fire tiger) is easier to leave on the bait, and weight is not an issue, I will use black, which covers better with fewer coats. Keep in mind, a consistent base coat yields better results. In other words, if you always use white, you will learn better how to blend your other colors onto the bait. I believe this is the true form of mixing and achieving desired tones...not pre-mixing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 Tx, if you need to take the old paint off, sanding is the quickest way. I never had much luck with solvents, they just make a mess. I start with 220 and go to 400 grit to finish. If the old paint is not trashed, you can just sand it lightly with 400 to give it a little tooth before applying new paint. Yes, if it's important to keep the same weight as the original, you need to take all the paint off AND you need to use a thin clearcoat similar to the factory clearcoat. But we're only talking about a couple 1/100ths of an ounce either way, on a typical bass bait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KcDano Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 The fast way to remove the old finish is with a sandblaster, using anything from walnut hulls to plastic beads. You find the right meduim and no surface filling is required other than a coat of primer or paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 The fast way to remove the old finish is with a sandblaster, using anything from walnut hulls to plastic beads. You find the right meduim and no surface filling is required other than a coat of primer or paint. This is not KcDano and I can prove it, the real KcDano has a beard. He would never be seen with his feet up over the side of his boat. So, who are you, you IMPOSTOR!Just kidding KC. Nice new Avitar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txbazzman Posted February 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 SO 220 grit is not smooth enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 Player's choice. 220 leaves marks that can show in the final finish and it's is fast enough to erase body details that I like to preserve, so I mostly use 400. KcDano is right about a blast cabinet if you do alot of repainting. Here's one tip: buy some Norton 3X sandpaper. It's by far the best I've used. A single 1"x3" piece will sand a dozen basswood baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txbazzman Posted February 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 What temp range should it be in the room I am painting crankbaits in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 Ideal is 70 degrees and up. Possible is anything above freezing. I paint in the garage year round as long as my fingers can stand the cold. And I always flash dry acrylic latex with a hair dryer. I'll take baits inside to cure an epoxy clearcoat but they will cure in the garage, just a little slower. You should have no problems in San Angelo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR KNOW IT ALL KIND OF Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 Tx.. you can stripe the paint off with SIMPLE GREEN!!! It will not hurt your plastic.. only problem is you have to soak them for about 3 to 4 weeks!!! I have heard Castro Motor Oil works too.. I like the glass bead and sandblasting idea that sounds a whole lot better than mine!!. I just havent spent the money to try that yet.. Most of the time all you have to do to a plastic lure is scuff the shine off... 400 to 800 grit sand paper or scots or is scotts.. bright!! use that to scuff them... WET SAND THEM.. keeps the dust down and the dust off your sand paper.. GOOD LUCK!! Welcome to the site.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 we used to order pradco bombers in base white and chrome. they were cleared already. without sanding we would shoot lacquer primer over, no sandinf. the chrome we overshot candy colors. them a clear acrylic. never had an issue. over the years we did thousands. thosee 9a bombers were great in lake erie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
