thedude Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 Cabin Fever + Back-ordered shipment of new rod supplies = Justin bored. so i tore up a couple more bps rods this weekend: here's an old crankin stick, this was my first baitcasting rod i bought when i was probably 15 years old... so its on at least its 12th season.... this one is a bionic blade spinning rod. I tried to match the colors on the rod a little better this time using a red under-wrap and gold marblizing... couldn't take of the front grip because its also the retaining lock for the reel seat: after this i'm out of rods i'm willing to tear apart, so i hope that order gets here soon..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huck Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 I like the marbelizing! I've read a couple short how-to's on it, but if you have a good link that you know of I'd like to see it. I mentioned before I'd like to try to build a split grip for my next rod, I'm thinking of marbelizing the split or trying a tiger wrap. Or maybe it's just a lot of trial and error? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted February 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 this was the general idea: http://www.rod-crafting.com/articles/marbling-help.html I just mix up a batch of finish, take about 4 drops of it and put it on some aluminum foil - (do this for each color). Then get the testors paints in the colors you want. Make sure the pigment settles to the bottom and pour off all the clear solvent. Its ok if you get some of the solvent, but you're after that pigment. Takes VERY little pigment to color those 4 drops finish.. just coat the end of a toothpick and mix it in to the epoxy on the foil. once you have the colors mixed, put the rod in the dryer and coat the area with plain finish like you normally would. Then just start dipping the toothpick into the colored finish and put "drips" or dots of it into the finish all over the area you just coated. once it starts looking like dalmatian spots take the toothpick and start making squiggles and curly cues in the spots. its really pretty easy, try it on a practice blank once and you'll have the hang of it. the top rod was black underwrap with OD-green testors paint and it looks the best so far i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huck Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 Thanks! It looks like I know what I'll be doing with my next rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shfishinsticks Posted February 19, 2008 Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 trying a tiger wrap. I haven't tried the marble yet either, but the holo/tiger wrap is pretty easy. Here's my first one. I wish they showed up better in pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 thats pretty slick... is the "tiger wrap" just special thread or is there more to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shfishinsticks Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 the quick version: base wrap 2 colors of thread at the same time, side by side. burnish, apply CP and a coat of finish. wrap 2 different colors over the cured finish in opposite direction of base wrap. (1 color will be removed, it's just a spacer). Remove spacer thread. Apply cp and coat of finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shfishinsticks Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Detailed instructions for this wrap are in Rod Maker 10-2 http://rodmakermagazine.com/cgi-bin/shop/index.cgi?page=backissues.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 sounds like thats worth a shot.. looks cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stream stalker Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 I want to know how hard was it to cut and remove the cork from the rod??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 cutting the cork off takes about 3 minutes.... find a seam between 2 rings and cut around the blank on the top and bottom bounds of where you want the cork removed.( don't need to go all the way to the blank, don't want to cut that - just enough to make a clean edge). next, run the razor lengthwise down the cork (across the rings) from the top cut to the bottom cut. Turn the rod 180 degrees and cut again. Then just use a pair of pliers to chew of cork, it comes off pretty easy. There will be some remnant on the blank where the glue was which you can scrape off with a razor or sand paper. Then i just use a file and sand paper to round off and clean up the edges. i also figured out how to replace the screw in butts that always fall out..into the lake....the 2nd time you use the rod.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stream stalker Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Do you think a utility knife would do the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 absolutely. i used one and it works fine. Cork is pretty soft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stream stalker Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 thanks. One more thing................if I don't have a rod turner, how am i going to keep the epoxy from dripping off the blank? Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stream stalker Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Sorry.......I just keep thinking of questions. If I cover the exposed blank with model paint, will I still need the epoxy overlay? I just went to Wal Mart to get supplies. here is what I have: epoxy three grades of sandpaper Utility knife pliers Is there anything else I have forgotten? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Ok 1st off - "epoxy": you need to get actual rod finish epoxy. Popular choice is called "Flex Coat". You'll have to order it unless you have a local rod building source... the 5 minute stuff you get at walmart just won't work... too thick and it will be full of air-bubbles. rod dryer: never done it by hand, but you can use a box - cut a V slot in 2 sides and let your rod rest in the grooves... you can use this for wrapping also... apply your finish and then rotate 90 degrees every few minutes... this will get tedious because you'll have to do it for probably at least 30-45 minutes before you can start stretching that interval. For better advice, go to www rodbuilding org, use the search feature (make sure you select "all dates") and search on "hand turning" or "hand drying". You'll find everything you could ever want. OR - go on ebay and search for rod dryer in fishing supplies, you want one that is about 4-6rpm range and they can be had for <$20 covering the blank: you have a few options here. if you use model paint, i would just add the pigment (testors) to your epoxy finish and apply in a solid color and be done. With testors, you want the paint where all the color settles at the bottom, drain off the clear solvent and use a toothpick to get a drop of pigment and mix it with the epoxy.. then apply. Another option is to wrap the blank with thread - you need nylon wrapping thread size E (or size A works too, e is a little easier imho because its bigger). Once wrapped, apply some color-preserver (rodbuilding section at cabelas or www.mudhole.com) then cover with epoxy finish. If you simply want to paint the blank - *i've heard* - you should use an automotive type enamel. A search on rodbuilding.org will solve this for you. I think you would still need to apply finnish.. don't feel comfortable saying either way however... again consult rodbuilding.org Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stream stalker Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Thank you very much. You have answered all my questions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 one more piece of advice - whatever you do, i would practice your finish on an old or broken rod blank or dowel rod 1st! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feldermannLures Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 Here is my first attempt. The marbling finish didnt turn out right but not bad for a fist timer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huck Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 That looks great to me, but I also cant take my eyes off that reel seat... where did you get that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorlings Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 How did you get the cork off the fore grip? I keep looking at my BPS rods and wonder... How am I ever going to trim it down? I am hesitant because they are either Pro Qualifier or Johnny Morris Signature Series. I have a few Gander Mountain Guide Series rods to practice on but they do not have the same fore grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feldermannLures Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 that came with the rod. its a Bass pro Extreme Performance rod that i got a few years ago... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feldermannLures Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 How did you get the cork off the fore grip? I keep looking at my BPS rods and wonder... How am I ever going to trim it down? I am hesitant because they are either Pro Qualifier or Johnny Morris Signature Series. I have a few Gander Mountain Guide Series rods to practice on but they do not have the same fore grip. Take a look at this thread i posted: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12395 i took my Bionic blade apart and posted a few pics. I was worried about taking it apart too because the fore grip is a little diffrent. i just took the plung and tore into and found it wasnt hard at all. To trim the reel seat down i used my dremel tool and a cutting disc with EXTREME care not to cut into the rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HookUp Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 looks great guys. Couple tips. flex coat - Cabelas sells individual packages. Buy six, use one, save the rest. The box w/ v-notches. Just 'paint' the flexcoat on, and turn every 15 minutes 90d. Use some blue painters tape to mask off are3a's you dont want sanded or cut accidentally. here's a great article to help http://www.georgescustomrods.com/split_your_grip.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snooterfish Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 i found that a fork (flatware) works great for gougng the cork off the blank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
