Uncle Grump Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 All I fish mainly for panfish - and I've come across a few models of plastics I like - and have been buying them retail.... I've never tryed pouring any type of plastics - and all I know about making them is what I've read in tackle magazines / catalogs, and what I've read here on TU.... I've been paying $2-3 for a pkg of 10-20 of a given kind of bait. My question - can I make them cheaper if I was to start pouring? For example - a local bait shop sells a soft plastic from Culprit (paddle tails) for about $2.70 for a package. I know I would have to find molds first - a catalog I have from Lurecraft has some that look about right - but purchasing them would be the only real way to know for certain. There might be other source of molds as well - haven't looked that hard. I don't see doing this for retail purposes - only for myself. Reasonable idea - or stick to retail? Thanks UG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airhog Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 I pour some crappie baits myself, and i have found that it is pretty difficult to pour small baits. It is hard to get the small details, and since the baits are so narrow it can be difficult to pour multi-colors. If you only factor cost into the equation, you could make them cheaper, however once you factor in the cost of your own labor, it is not worth it on a small scale. It would probably be worth it if you were pouring single colors, and werent looking for baits that look really great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 UG If you are making baits for yourself you can make your own molds with the baits you like to use. Woouldn't try to sell them though. Any savings will be long term because of you initial costs for palstic, coloring, etc. Somebody here might be making what you are looking for...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Grump Posted February 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 Ledhed: Thank You - hadn't considered that. What material would be in the running for the mold? Plaster - silicon? Airhog: My labor is free - materials do cost howerver. I thank both of you for the input - this is what I'd hope to get here. UG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 UG I have silicon swimbait molds from LC and some aluminum molds (from ebay). Don’t know about plaster – but a lot of TU members use it and swear by it. Custom mold making is not my forte but there is some real talent on this site that know all about the pros and cons of both plaster and silicon. Try the word search feature – one of the best tools ever. You will have answers before you have questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 Don't know how small we're talking here but small baits can be made with a little practice. I made these crappie baits this past weekend. Both are made from home made POP molds. The shad is 2.25" and the minnow is 2.5"...both are laminated and dipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 19, 2008 Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 Del does a starter kit that may fill your needs and get you started. He advertises on this site (Del mart). This should let you know whether you want to continue with pouring or go back to retail. Is your chosen bait a one piece mold (is it flat on one side). If so, a simple PoP (plaster of paris) mold will get you started and it doesn't get simpler or cheaper than that. If your bait is rounded and you can see a seam or join line, then it is a two piece. PoP is still possible, but you might consider RTV (room temperature vulcanising) rubber, it's just a two part mix that pours and sets at room temperature. No special equipment needed, at least at the start. RTV is more expensive. Use the search function at the top of the page and read about the whole process. Click forums and select member submitted tutorials, there is a ton and a half of information on this site. Once you are more familiar with the process, it will be easier to make a decision. BE WARNED, pouring is addictive, once you start, you may not be able to stop. One or two members run 10 step programs for lure addicts and claim that they have the habbit under control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted February 19, 2008 Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 Uncle Grump. Vman is right... There are a couple of Member Submitted Tutorials on making RTV and PoP molds. They can provide a good idea of the procedures for making molds and then you can get specific answers to any questions that follow. There is a ton of information. Members post how they did it along with problems they encounter. By reading some of the problems others run into, you can avoid making similar mistakes. Planning and prep go a long way towards success. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airhog Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Don't know how small we're talking here but small baits can be made with a little practice. I made these crappie baits this past weekend. Both are made from home made POP molds. The shad is 2.25" and the minnow is 2.5"...both are laminated and dipped. I have problems poring 2-3" baits when it is a two color pour. I have a difficult time keeping the first color off the sides of the mold. Single colors pour fine for me, although some of the pours with really fine detail are a pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuna230 Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 i havent pour plastic yet but want to.i guess i started backward by making pop mold .its easy just go to tap plastics have them cut out frame and get a bottom piece .get 90 degree braces glue on the sides to be formed also 4 pessure clip to hold them together.get silicone to seal the bottom where the frame and the bottom. so the pop mixture doesnt leak out. then mix the plaster by volumne 3parts plaster 1part 50/50 with elmers glue plus alittle extra water to thin out.pour into frame slowly then tap the bottom mold to vibrate air bubbles out.wait til dry to the touch when you dont sink in your finger about an hour to hour -half Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Elmers will give a really strong resilient mold. But, it takes time for this strength to happen, as the PVA takes time to harden, which it does from the outside, inwards. The mold is ready to use as if it was plaster. The mold will still require sealing in the usual ways. My point is, don't use too much elmers in the plaster mix. I am still experimenting with it. I am currently using 10-15% mixed into the water, prior to adding the plaster. It would be interesting to read what ratio others are mixing, including the plaster/water ratio, by weight or volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...