Fish_N_Fool Posted February 26, 2008 Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 I'm looking for some info on a hard but ultra light weight type of pourable plastic or some other resin to make the inside of a floating top water bait out of. I want to pour it in a mold over the hook then put that in another mold and pour the body of the bait over that to gain a better float and give the bait more durability. I tried feather light, but it was to heavy as is. Any one ever put floater bubbles in it? Or opinions on if you think it would work. Or does anyone know how to pour a hard rubber hallow center baits in a mold? So it would have an air pocket in it using a plastic like you use for pliers handles? Tnx Fish-N-Fool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted February 26, 2008 Report Share Posted February 26, 2008 Ive been told that tooling handles & harder vinyl like what is used on the old skum frogs is simply plastisol vinyl in a harder shore (formula) I would contact the various plastisol suppliers & inquire about a harder formula. If you want to experiment, some hardware & home improvement stores carry a "tool dip" where you can dip your tool handles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weighinalimit Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 I had thoughts about trying that, using hardener in tube plastic. My wife makes ceramic figurines, pouring plaster into large versions of what we use as 2 part molds. She pours the plaster mix in, waits a set amount of time then pours it back out of the mold which creates the hollow figurine. My brainstorm was... if it works with plaster, why couldn't it work with plastisol, one would need to experiment to find the correct time span to let it cool so as to pour out the still liquid center and leave o plastic hollow shell in the mold. Sounds good on paper, knowing my luck it's a crap idea LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 An idea that I was considering was rotation setting. Fill half of the two piece mold with resin. Close the mold. Rotate on a wheel until the resin sets. I tried rotating by hand, I got the bubble but it was not distributed well. My opinion is that a rotating mount, rotating at about 60 rpm would give a result. This speed is a guess, based on the viscosity. Once the resin starts to turn, it goes to jelly in a few seconds. If the rotation is too slow, it will give an uneven bubble. Possibly even faster rotation speeds might produce better results, using gyroscopic forces to distribute the resin. Another method that I tried, a balsa wood insert in a resin cast. This worked, but more labour intensive than I wanted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted February 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 I was thinking of trying the tool dip stuff that way. By pouring it in the mold and roll it around for a bit then pour back out the excess. What I hope to get is a air filled cavity that really sticks to the hook well that I can pour my soft bait over and get a durable high floating soft bait with the hook permanently embedded in. One reason I need the exrta float is I add a small amount of weight to get the bait to float nose up and up right on every cast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 She pours the plaster mix in, waits a set amount of time then pours it back out of the mold which creates the hollow figurine. Slipcasting...... works good with latex masks also. An idea that I was considering was rotation setting. Fill half of the two piece mold with resin. Close the mold. Rotate on a wheel until the resin sets. Rotocasting...... Few years ago, Jed (riverman) & I racked our heads on the same project, we finally made a decent rotocaster at the cost of tearing down nice drying wheel We ended up with the same results & I'll tell you why: The hobby casting resins gel slowly & viscosity gradually decreases until it truly gels & then hardens. Smooth-on has recently introduced a "rotocast" version of their resin which supposedly "snap" cures but you still need to get at least one full gyroscopic rotation within that "snap" cure window. Good luck if you try it, Theres a simple way to make the rotocaster (its actually a dual rotocaster) but it will still take alot of trial & error to get a relatively uniform body thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 Jerry, what rotation speeds did you try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redg8r Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 Jerry, what rotation speeds did you try? X @ 6rpm Y @ 18rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted February 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 Nobody ever said if they have ever tried adding floater bubbles to featherlight plastic. Do you think it would work? Or has it already got floater bubbles in it to make it light? I don't have a clue. I was also thinking of trying spray insulation foam like you find at Home Depot. I know it's light and sticks to metal great, but not sure you could ever get it out of a mold with it or the mold in one piece. Any thoughts on any of this? Inquiring minds want to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
