Creating molds from plastic baits

[airhog]

I have problems copying baits with POP. I get a lot of airbubble around the plastic. I ready online that this can be caused by the surface tension of the plaster and the plastic. I read that you can spray dish soap and water, or windex cut 50% with water onto your plastic baits to reduce your surface tension and prevent airbubbles.

[Troul Hawk]

try painting an initial layer of POP over the worms with a small paintbrush and then pour the rest in from a corner, I think this helps. I do this when I am making RTV molds.

[Fish_N_Fool]

Tapping your molding box with the handle of a metal butter knife after pouring really helps alot also as well as pouring from one corner of your molding box and let POP run slowly over the bait to be molded.

[carolinamike]

I always mix my POP up in a 16 oz. plastic cup and then tap the cup on the table and the bubbles will come to the top. Then if you kind of swirl it around, you can work the real small bubbles to the middle and skim them off. Do this a couple of times, then use your coating on your bait. Make sure it's at the consistency that it will pour, start at one end of the mold and work your way to the other, pouring evenly, that way you push the air out to one end.

[Smallie]

everything said so far assumes you are gluing the baits down and pouring over them. If you are mixing the plaster in a container and pushing the bait down into the plaster you are pushing the bait into any bubbles that have risen to the top. If that is how you are making the molds, you need to make sure you don't have bubbles in the plaster. Carolina Mike's method will help. Also don't make the plaster too wet or it can get bubbles on the surface.

[carolinamike]

Smallie is correct about consistency of your POP. Also if it's too wet it can cause your bait to float. But with enough practice you'll figure out the right consistency and you can actually make a mold without gluing the bait down. The weight of the plaster will actually hold the bait down. Here's a picture of two that I made. I just laid the bait in a small plastic dish that originally had a microwaveable meal in it. I didn't use anything to hold them down. The plaster was just right to hold it down for me. The gold colored one was made of dental stone plaster, and it is 3-4 yrs old. The white one was made from regular POP that you buy from Lowe's or Home Depot, and it's about 7 yrs old. They both make great baits still to this day.

[longhorn]

One mistake I've made in the past is not having the plaster thin enough. I make it like pancake batter now so air bubbles can release easier. My release method is tapping the entire mold box on the counter. Most of my molds are multi-cavity and the masters close together so I use a big spoon to fill in between and around them before I pour in the rest of the POP.

[braveviper]

Try putting the mold on top of your clothes dryer or washing machine while its on.The vibrations will loosen up the bubbles and rise them to the surface.

[airhog]

I'm doing most of those things actually. All of my molds upto the point have been 2 part molds.

I vibrate the pop before and after I pour it. I think my consistency has been a bit too thick though, which might be part of the problem.

Also, when I get air bubbles, it is usually just on the bait itself, and nowhere else around the pop that doesnt have plastic touching it.

[bigyen]

Hi,

I have found that if you paint your bait with some POP before you fill up your mold box like Trout Hawk says you won't have any bubbles on your mold. When I 1st started to make POP molds I really struggled with this problem. I even paint POP into the hook slots on the bottom of frogs and the molds come out with very good detail and never any bubbles.

[nickcalderone]

This might sound strange, but you may want to try the "bombs away" method. It works with RTV silicone, so I would assume it would work with POP. (although I have not tried it with POP) Anyway, after you mix your POP batter, place your mold cavity on the floor directly below the edge of your table or workbench. The distance should be around 2 to 3 feet. Then, tip the pour spout of the POP container SLOWLY so that a VERY THIN....VERY THIN...VERY THIN...(did I mention VERY THIN?) stream of POP flows down into the mold container. This will eliminate 90% of the air bubbles...it takes some patience, but it works. Like I said, I use this method with RTV silicone, so I don't see why it would not work with POP. Good luck!

[Smallie]

Nick - aren't you brave! I would have RTV all over the floor and the toes of my boots.

[JSC]

Now I know where all of that splattered stuff is coming from when we have a west wind. !!!!

JSC

[nickcalderone]

Yeah...I make sure to save the beer for after the molds are made!

[DoodleDee]

Most of my molds are made from POP. I use a 5" two piece non-stick cake pan that can be purchased from Big Lots. I coat the bottom with vaseline and position the bait. Then I coat the sides or cake ring if you will, with vaseline and clamp the ring to the bottom. The vaseline helps creat a suction and keeps the bait in place on the bottom. Mix the POP fairly thin and slowly pour around the bait. Let stand until the POP has set. Unclamp the side ring and let set until the next day. Then remove the bottom. If by chance a repair is needed. I mix a small amount of POP in a shot glass and touch up any defects. Seal with modge podge, let dry. I brush the cavity with mineral oil for a glossy finish bait. If I want a non-gloss bait, I don't add oil.