jflures Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 Nice job A-mac!! This has been a great thread hope it doesn't die out now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverMan Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 I agree, I learned alot from this thread. I have built swimbaits that work great and many more that don't work at all. I will add though, that my experience has been like some others here in that the lures swim best when most if not all of the lead is in the head of the lure. Jed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdhaeh Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 Hey SNAX, the best way I found to use paint brush bristles is: (1) get two sheets of wax paper (2) apply a thin line of glue or epoxy (3) put the ends of the bristles on the glue (4) put epoxy/glue in a line on other piece of wax paper (5) sandwich the bristles b/w the two sheets and wait for it to dry. The glue/epoxy peel right off the wax paper leaving you with a bristle mohawk that you can trim to length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 got the fins on. ran into some devcon problems... its been 2 days and its still tacky... i don't want it thicker (coating) than I have too. Can I still coat the bait w/ a 3rd coat over the still tacky finish? Can/should I thin devcon to make a thinner coat since this is the 3rd? I got the new fins on. Microfiber is da shiznit. Looks pretty cool. I'll post pics once i figure out how to save this bait... once again... bdhaeh, that sounds like a good idea for the fins, as well as taping them off before coating (snax). lessons learned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snax Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Great idea with the wax paper. Funny thing is that I have been using wax paper lately but not quite as you described. I was trying to use tape pressed against the fibers which were laying on the wax paper. Your idea sounds much better and I'll have to give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snax Posted March 7, 2008 Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 I agree, I learned alot from this thread. I have built swimbaits that work great and many more that don't work at all. I will add though, that my experience has been like some others here in that the lures swim best when most if not all of the lead is in the head of the lure. Jed Hi Jed, I noticed also during testing that Cedar took much less forward motion to start swimming compared to denser wood. I remember your input on wood types for gliders back when I started. With regards to the swimbaits being weighted mostly towards the head heres my take on it. I think it's probably got something to do with gravity and the friction on the joints when extra weight is added to all the body sections. This of course is only true of swimbaits with a physical "hinge". John Hopkins has wisely eliminated all gravity induced friction by using a Kevlar strand. Brilliant! His baits move absolutely fluidly with very little forward momentum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoosierbaits Posted March 7, 2008 Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 A-mac, email me. I am just across the river. Don hhmuskybaits@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverMan Posted March 7, 2008 Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 Hi Jed,I think it's probably got something to do with gravity and the friction on the joints when extra weight is added to all the body sections. This of course is only true of swimbaits with a physical "hinge". That makes sense, more weight would definitely put more pressure on the hinges. However, I can weight the head of the lure like a rock and the first joint works fine. It may be that the more weight in the back of the lures just makes them a bit harder to move which reduces action. Jed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smirkplug Posted March 8, 2008 Report Share Posted March 8, 2008 How much swim do you want ? can you twitch it and get any movement ? Adding weight to the middle area should get you some movement. I also agree going to soft plastic or rubber. A bass will try to swallow it head first, if it feels the hard fins it will try to spit it immeadiatly, they are afraid of choking on it, also bluegills that get ambushed are usually stationary so a stop start with long pauses work well also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 8, 2008 Report Share Posted March 8, 2008 For me, the weight placement has to do with how the lure sinks when paused. I want it to sink horizontal, or with a slight head down, circling action, instead of diving head first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted March 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2008 Finally got to throw the gill in some thawed waters. Its crazy. I burned it through and super slow retrieved and performed marvelously. I also got it to do the 180 turn but I think that will take some practice to get it down to an art. I will try to get a video up soon. Rock on! everyone for the help! You guys helped create a wicked bait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimsbane Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 How about an update? I'm wanting to design a swimmer in the shape of a bluegill as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrhopkins Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 congrats on the swimming success. it does give one a sense of accomplishment to figure something out. i use the microfibers as well as paint brush bristles for the fins also. i arrange them in the shape i want on a piece of tape and then put another piece on top to lock it all together like a tape sandwich. then i apply epoxy to the tag end ( the part that goes into the lure body). leave the tape on until it is epoxied in place and then you can trim it to shape with scissors. don't epoxy the tape to the lure, you will not get it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimsbane Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 duh must have hit last page rather than next glad to see you got it working, now its time to try this knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
