lead pouring

[strictly esox]

I will be pouring lead for the first time and had some questions. I searched this forum and answered most of the questions I had. I read about smoking your mold before pouring with a candle, how exactly do you do that? Is there a better way? The lead I am using is very soft and should be very clean.

I was thinking of making my own mold, I looked at some do-it molds but they dont make what I am looking for. I want weights for weighting my Musky baits that I make. I want to make a mold that holds several 1/2" and 3/8 diameter by 6" long wieghts so I can cut them in my band saw for the exact weight I want. I dont plan on milling a sprew hole or cutting a pouring champfer to the molds, I was going to pour directly into the 1/2" and 3/8" openings, cut off the flashing from the end and go from there. Can anyone tell me if this is a bad idea and if so why?

Thanks in advance for your opinions, John:wink:

[sagacious]

I will be pouring lead for the first time and had some questions. I searched this forum and answered most of the questions I had. I read about smoking your mold before pouring with a candle, how exactly do you do that? Is there a better way? The lead I am using is very soft and should be very clean.

Hold the candle about 1" under the mold. The soot will collect on the surface of the cavity. A flame that produces soot, obviously, is better than a smokeless flame. This method is basically the only way to do it-- but it's quick, and couldn't be simpler. Always wear eye protection when near molten lead.

I was thinking of making my own mold, I looked at some do-it molds but they dont make what I am looking for. I want weights for weighting my Musky baits that I make. I want to make a mold that holds several 1/2" and 3/8 diameter by 6" long wieghts so I can cut them in my band saw for the exact weight I want. I dont plan on milling a sprew hole or cutting a pouring champfer to the molds, I was going to pour directly into the 1/2" and 3/8" openings, cut off the flashing from the end and go from there. Can anyone tell me if this is a bad idea and if so why?

Thanks in advance for your opinions, John:wink:

If I understand you correctly, you want to make a mold that is essentially a 1/2" x 6" hole, and drops a 6" long stick of lead to be cut into several ballast weights. Yes, that will work fine-- and will work best if the mold is 2-piece. I pour heavy pencil sinkers using this same basic technique.

Hope this helps, good luck!

[strictly esox]

Yes it will be a 2 piece mold. I figured it should work but I thought I would ask before spending all the time milling it. It's going to hold alot of lead, atleast 6 1/2" and 6 3/8 pencil style weights. I'm using 1" thick by 8" wide aluminum.

How often do I need to resmoke it? And now that I think of it how long does it take for the lead to harden and can be removed from the mold?

John

[sagacious]

Yes it will be a 2 piece mold. I figured it should work but I thought I would ask before spending all the time milling it. It's going to hold alot of lead, atleast 6 1/2" and 6 3/8 pencil style weights. I'm using 1" thick by 8" wide aluminum.

Very good. A word to the wise: If I understand your description correctly, I would urge you to use 1/2" aluminum for the mold halves. My experience is that molds of this design (long, narrow cavities with no gate) need to be fairly hot to pour well. If not hot enough, the castings are usually incomplete and full of obvious voids. Causes much chagrin and vexation. The thicker and heavier the mold halves, the longer it'll take to pre-heat the mold. There's more than one way to skin this cat, but 1/2" thick mold halves will almost assuredly work better than 1".

If cold, the mold cavities likely won't fill at all, which means you often cannot initially heat-up the mold through repeated pourings. So, be sure to heat the mold adequately prior to pouring. As well, keep your molten lead fairly hot. Once it's hot enough, your mold should pour great.

How often do I need to resmoke it?

In your case, you won't need to re-smoke the mold very often-- if at all. It's one of the ways you 'break-in' a new mold, and then re-apply if castings are sticking, when fill-out problems arise, etc. Based on the simple geometry of your mold design, and before the initial pour, de-grease the mold cavities with a solvent, smoke the cavities, and you'll probably be set from then on.

And now that I think of it how long does it take for the lead to harden and can be removed from the mold?

John

Not very long, usually just a few seconds, or a bit longer. You'll see the sprue (the 'flashing', as you called it) cool and solidify rapidly, and when it's solid, you can open the mold and remove your lead sticks. With your mold, when you see the lead on the outside solidify, the lead inside will be solid too.

Let us know how it goes. Good luck, and be safe.

[strictly esox]

Thanks for all your help, I dont know if I have any 1/2" aluminum laying around if I do I will use it. I just figured the thicker the better so it doesnt warp, I might try preheating it with a propane torch. I should be pouring this weekend, I will let you know how it went.

Thanks, John

[strictly esox]

I ended up making the mold out of 1", didnt have any 1/2 laying around. I poured for the first time this morning and everything worked great. The weights poured well with a couple small voids but for ballist weights I think they will be fine. Monday I will be putting the mold on a diet and mill it down to 1/2". It would have been alot more fun if it was a little warmer, 5 degrees this morning. My saftey glasses and face shield kept fogging up from my resporator. I thought it would have been alot worse with smoke and fumes but it wasnt bad at all, I dont think a resporator is needed. I have a couple more ideas for new molds but I think you were right, 1/2" would work better. I completly forgot to smoke the mold but I guess it wasnt necessary, they released just fine infact some of them fell out when I tipped the mold over.

Thanks for all your help, John:worship:

[sagacious]

Very nice, congrats on your success! I'm sure your next molds will work out great as well.

Be safe, and good luck!