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CHUCKV309

Sea Horse mold problem

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I just got the Do-It mold of the Sea Horse jig. The problem I am having is that I cannot get the 1/4 and 3/8 oz jigs to pour. It always stops just past the head. I am using the listed hooks for it and everything is very hot. I have even enlarged the air bleed path and added another. I've done so much altering to the the mold to get it to pour that I don't think Do-It will take it back.:mad: Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Chuck

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Since it sounds like the gate is flooding and freezing before full fill out, could your lead be too hard for smaller sizes? If not, I've got quite a few molds that pour best if they're cracked slightly for air release from the cavities. Some molds also need to have the lead stream slowed down off center from the middle of the gate to avoid flooding.

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Yeah, it is a bottom pour pot, and the lead is as hot as it can get it. The lead is not a hard lead (wheel weights), it is a softer pure lead. I've tried tilting a little, but not that much. I'll have to try that and slow the flow a little.

Chuck

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OK, soft lead, hot enough, and vented cavities. Sounds like during the pour lead flow is being restricted at the gate, backing up, then freezing. Probable solution then would be to reduce friction between gate walls and melt stream or forcing fill out like Ledheds method. What works for me is cracking the mold slightly to increase the flow of air at the gate as a friction reducer.

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i had a similar problem with a new mold a few days ago.the sprue was offcenter of the cavity and i ended up moving the mold closer to the pot and pouring offcenter of the sprue.the lead would hit and actually curl up filling the sprue instead of filling the cavity.oops guess somebody dun said it was backin up lol

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One other thing you might try, but it can be HAZARDOUS. You will need heavy leather gloves, long sleeves and some safety glasses.

Try holding the mold up tight to the pot nipple, it usually fits right in the pour hole. When you pour, the cavity will fill and so will the pour hole. This is where sometimes you get a slight splatter and where the safety gear comes into play. It acts kind of like an injector. NOT TO BE DONE WITHOUT PROTECTION.

TJ

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Has anyone tried to fit a flow reducing sleeve into the down spout? A thinner stream of lead melt would be less likely to flood the gate of a tough to pour mold? I once had one of those "ladles" that looked like a ball with an upper 1/4 missing and a fully enclosed pour spout. Since the lead stream was too thick for small jig heads I stuck in a round tubular compression pin like the kind in Do-it hinges and the resulting smaller exit channel and thinner lead stream worked great.

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I've got the Do-It Pony head mold ass't sizes and I had the same problem. I mainly use tire weight lead and I found that I had to make a bunch of pours without the hooks and swivels to really get the mold heated up.

I agree with the others that you do need to have a tilt to the mold when pouring so the lead doesn't clog the sprue opening.

Fatman

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