bhorlings Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 So I finished shaping my split grip last night and went to put the epoxy finish on it. I got an American Tackle kit that a local store had. I put 3ml of each together and mixed everything up for a few minutes. Then I let it set for a few minutes. Then I mixed some more for a few minutes. I added some Testors paint to it and mixed again. I then proceeded to coat my road. For the next two hours I turned the rod every 3 minutes. Then I turned it every 10 minutes. After that I gave it one last turn and went to bed (that was 1 AM this morning). When I woke up this morning I went to check the rod to see if it had cured. It was still tacky. I know probably put too thick of a coating on also (since it was my first time). My question is... Is it still tacky because I did not mixed everything properly, because it has not fully cured yet because it was too thick or some other reason? Second question is... how to get rid of the finger print mark now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 I don't know for sure, but because of the oils and acids in your skin, it is possible that the print may remain visible, but probably only to you. My suggestion is that you sign your masterpiece, over the thumb print. If anyone does see the print, you could say that it is for authentication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorlings Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Great idea. I just hope it is fully cured when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 One of the rod making gurus will jump in soon (,I hope)... I would think that after it's finished cooking, you can lightly sand it put a light top coat on it. My best guess. Although, the Vman's idea is is very original and would truly make it a custom. Just make sure you customize every rod in the future the same way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shfishinsticks Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 I've never used AmTak finish, so I'm not farmiliar with the cure time. If your workspace is less than 70*, it will take longer than normal to cure. Did you pour all the solvent off the Testors before you mixed it in? That could be the reason for the slow cure. Possibly, you used too much pigment, also adding to the cure time. For epoxy, application thickness has no effect on cure. As for the fingerpring, we've all done it at one time or another! Next time, stick your thumb on the leftover stuff to see if it's cured, not the rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 its hard to check without messing up the finish, but if its "gummy" you probably used too much pigment or got too much solvent in with the epoxy. It just takes a small drip for 3mils. If thats the case, it might never dry - i did this on a test blank about 2 months ago and its still tacky/gummy. Good news is its easy to scrape off and do-over if its gummy. you can always try to let it sit for a week in the warmest spot in your house and check it then. Once (if) it dries, you can add another coat of regular finish to cover up the thumb print if it is too noticeable for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorlings Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 It was a lot harder this morning than when I went to bed so I hope it dries. I did add like three drops and did not separate out the pigment from the solvent. It was not that sticky just left by finger print mark when I touched it firmly. Any options for getting the sticky coat off? Could I just scrap it with a heat gun and a razor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shfishinsticks Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 I think the solvent was the issue. Plastic knife and a hair dryer will remove it just fine, especially if it's still soft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stream stalker Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Since "the dude" turned me onto this split grip thing, I have now completed four rods as of last night. Gotta tell you I am starting to get good at this! And fast too! Couple of things I have learned: I tried a few different options when it came to heat source for softening the glue. What i found that worked best was one of those trigger lighters with the long shaft. You can direct the heat right where you want it. Works like a charm. Secondly, even though the rest of you are using actual epoxy designed for fishing rods, the Devcon 5 minute epoxy sold at Wal Mart works great!!!! Also, when you squirt it out, equal parts epoxy and hardener come out together. No bubbles and a nice clear finish. I will post some pics as soon as i can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattman Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Typically...a good coat of finish over the top of a tacky coat will push the tacky finish into fully curing. For every 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorlings Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Just got home and ran down to check the rod out. It was all set up! I am so excited. When I get finished with it completely I will post some more pics. I still have some painting and threading to do. Also, since I do not have a dryer yet there are few areas where it is lumpy from me adding some epoxy on. Any tips on smoothing that out? Should I just sand it down a little those areas and coat it again? Thanks to everyone for their tips and encouragement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 once you have the finish on the rod, you can run a lighter or alcohol lamp under the rod to heat the finish. This will cause it to run and sag. Use a brush to remove the excess sag/drips from the bottom and let it set. you can do this at 5-30 minute intervals since you are hand turning. I do it right off the bat on while its turning to get the finish to lay down nice and then let the dryer do its thing. nice job btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorlings Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 I did that last night but since I was hand turning it as it stiffened I did not turn it as much. Now it's hard and lumpy in a few areas. Any ideas on how to fix that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Brian, Since you and theDude only live 42.16 miles (more or less) apart, why not just go over, do a meet and greet, and work on rods over a long weekend??? LoL. I agree with theDude, looks like it coming along nicely, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattman Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Check your finish instructions before applying flame to your finish. That doesn't necessarily work with all finishes and I know the developer of LS2000 says "don't do it". I've wet sanded any time I got a sag from my dryer shutting off or some stupid mishap. 320, 440 and 600 grit papers on acrylic sanding blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorlings Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Thanks guys... I can't wait to get to work on the next one. And to think... 1.5 years ago I picked up fishing... 4 months ago I started hand pouring baits... this week it's rod modification... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theflyingplatypus Posted March 14, 2008 Report Share Posted March 14, 2008 What blank did you use? That looks like carbon fiber peeking out right before the reel seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorlings Posted March 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2008 It is a Gander Mountain Guide Series Tourney Special (I will look when I get home tonight). I think it is just a wrap on it though. It does look like carbon fiber. From about a foot about the reel sheet it looks just like a black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude Posted March 15, 2008 Report Share Posted March 15, 2008 It is a Gander Mountain Guide Series Tourney Special (I will look when I get home tonight). I think it is just a wrap on it though. It does look like carbon fiber. From about a foot about the reel sheet it looks just like a black. its probably a finish they put on there. the bionic blades have something similar.. kind of like painted carbon fiber - not sure the process they use to get it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Va Posted March 17, 2008 Report Share Posted March 17, 2008 Similar thing happened to me years ago. I used out dated wrap finish, never cured. Stripped it all off with acetone and started over with all new. Came out perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
