Master Baiter Posted December 4, 2003 Report Share Posted December 4, 2003 Just ordered one from CSI.and wanted to know if anyone here has one to get any tips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topher Posted December 5, 2003 Report Share Posted December 5, 2003 I got one a couple of weeks ago. I don't think that the single fluid bed is woth the $80, I am still waiting on the single row fluid bed. I think that if you are going to go one jig at a time, just use jars, especially if you are doing small jigs. chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Baiter Posted December 5, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2003 I ordered a custom bed last week to handle 3rows of 1/2 jigs. I just hope it works the way it should at $285.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topher Posted December 6, 2003 Report Share Posted December 6, 2003 I hope so too. I was a little disappointed with the single dip one, but otherwise I am happy with their service and products. Let me know how it works, I will update you if I get some tricks down. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Ratz Posted December 6, 2003 Report Share Posted December 6, 2003 Do you guys that make jigs paint with or without the weedguard in? I have tried without the weedguard in but the powder coat seems to fill in around the base hole some and makes it a little diffficult to glue the weedguards in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markell Posted December 7, 2003 Report Share Posted December 7, 2003 Fat Ratz, I increase the size of the hole before powder coating the jig. I am not sure if this will help if you are dipping the jig in the powder but it works great with the brush application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Baiter Posted December 7, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2003 We cast the weed guard in the jig and heat them around 225 degrees and then dip them in the powder paint. This works fine ,the powder sometimes does not melt completely but we bake them fo 30min at 225 degrees anyway and that takes care of it. The black fiber guards do great but the other colors tend to flare out when heated so we are going to try inserting aluminum sleeves over the guards before heating. Nost the anglers that have seen the guards flared out want thme because they normaly flare them out for better hook sets anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Ratz Posted December 7, 2003 Report Share Posted December 7, 2003 Thanks guys. I need to get away from dipping the jigs directly in the powder and try one of the other methods that was mentioned. I am looking into a fluid bed but waiting to see how the others fair here with there's. I have used aluminum tubing over the weedguards before and it does keep them from spreading out. Just crimp one end and it does not slide down on the lure. I also use a heat gun to sometimes finish melting the paint. Does the paint flow out well at 225 deg? I have never tried it that low before but if it does I will surely give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Baiter Posted December 7, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2003 yes the paint flows out at 225 degrees' I've ordered a large fluid bed and I hope to have it by next week and I will then give you any updates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra0718 Posted December 8, 2003 Report Share Posted December 8, 2003 Master! I've also had problems with the oven.. I guess I'm doing this the same way as FATZ, but even with me trying it at the 225. I still get some drips. Is there a way to keep from getting them? How are you guys doing this with a brush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Baiter Posted December 9, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2003 Hey Cobra, Just click here http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=1319 to read an earlier post about using brushs. We still dip our jigs but I add a small air source to the tray and it puts an ok amount aof paint on the jigs but it takes longer. I just ordered a fluid bed and hope to get it soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted December 23, 2003 Report Share Posted December 23, 2003 C n R Tackle and Supply: Have you recieved your single row CSI Fluid Bed? And if so how is it performing? I considered purchasing the smaller sized single dip one but will probably need one a bit larger. No more than i will be doing a single or double row job should do me well. Before i purchase one i would like to hear from someone who is currently using one and getting good results. Any advise or comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Baiter Posted December 24, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2003 Just recieved a call from CSI and my fluid bed will be shipped ASAP .but with the holiday who know's when I get it.They told me once I get it to call them and they will walk me through it. I will let you n=know. you can reach me at 1-888-EVIL-VEE if you'd like to talk firsh hand. I'm neededing help with my Store Front 6.0 software if you know anyone that could help? Thanks Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavu Posted December 24, 2003 Report Share Posted December 24, 2003 I purchased one of the small fluid beds and have had mixed results with it. I finally took the thing apart and figured out how it works. The container that holds the powder paint is made up of a material that has micro pores in it. The idea is that the air builds up under the container and is moved evenly up thru the paint. I have had this happen for me only once. Most of the time, reguardless of air pressure, I have 3 or 4 of what resemble miniture volcanos. I wonder if you need to blow out the bottom (micro screen part) of the container occasionally to keep all the pores open? Even with the powder paint not bubbling up evenly, I find that I am using much less powder paint with this system. Does anyone know where the micro screen material comes from? I would like to custom build a taller container so I can dip my longer minnow jigs in one dip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted December 24, 2003 Report Share Posted December 24, 2003 I have a fluid bed . I am trying to attach a pic. I have fish eye on the jigs I powder paint. The smaller specks seems to be related to either the amount of air pressure or maybe the preheat time. I not havin very good results with mine. I have trouble with even air flow from front to back. So when I dip I get some good one in the back and the small specks in the front. If I lower the air pressure, then I get no air movement in the back. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Ratz Posted December 24, 2003 Report Share Posted December 24, 2003 dlaery, what temperature are you heating the jigs to and how long are you heating them before dipping? I find that I need to heat the jigs between 350-400 deg. for about 15 minutes to get the lead warm enought to melt the paint. I am still experimenting with powder paint but would love a fluid bed if they work good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted December 24, 2003 Report Share Posted December 24, 2003 I make my jigs with a spin casting machine using silicone molds. I have reduced the fish eye by washing the jigs with some dishwashing soap with lemon ( lemon has acetic acid, I guess this neutralizes the silicone on the lead) The problem I'm having now is the small specks in the top pic. I get the small specks at 350, at 400 I get too much paint and it drips. The pre-heat time is 15 min. I use a regular cook stove, I have 2 thermometers, 1 in the top of the oven and 1 in the bottom. The top is usually 25 degrees higher that the bottom. Here is a pic of my fluid bed. The top has air movement but the bottom does not. This is the 2nd fluid bed I've tried, the other one had the problem from side to side. But some day, I hope I'll get the hang of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Ratz Posted December 25, 2003 Report Share Posted December 25, 2003 Does this model have the vibrator motor on it? I know the CSI website says that some colors work better without the vibrator motor going. May try it and see if it makes any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted December 25, 2003 Report Share Posted December 25, 2003 I tried with the motor running and without. I'm curious, what kind of results is everyone else having? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted December 25, 2003 Report Share Posted December 25, 2003 Hello cavu, Maybe the problem you are experienceing can be remedied by fabricating an air tight type cover for the fluid bed. Then you could possibly turn it upside down and let it run for a couple of minutes before you shut it off. You will most likely have to place a valve on the side of the fluid bed, next to the bottom of the bed, or you might blow paint all over the place. Maybe operating it in this upside down position for a few minutes after its use will keep the powder from settling down into the pourous material. Of course you would have to store it in the upside down position until its next use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPC Posted December 25, 2003 Report Share Posted December 25, 2003 If you have an air source, you can make your own fluid bed. I used PVC pipe, pipe fittings and a nylon reducing bushing , all purchased at the hardware store. The critical part is the porous polyethylene that acts as the bottom of the powder chamber and top of the air chamber. I found the stuff at www.smallparts.com. I used the .125 thickness. A 9.5" X 9.5" sheet costs $24.00. I used 2" pipe and dip one jig at a time. Use 4" pipe and dip several. A control valve on the air line allows for the release of the very small amount of air needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Ratz Posted December 25, 2003 Report Share Posted December 25, 2003 JPC, I asume if the fluid bed has a solid bottom then the porous polyethylene goes between the air flow and the bottom of the bed? I have not seen a fluid bed up close and not sure exactly how the bottom is constructed. Do you get good results with the fluid bed you made? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavu Posted December 26, 2003 Report Share Posted December 26, 2003 I have never seen that on a lure. Just a suggestion, make sure the lead is clean. Any silicon or oil will cause the paint to malfunction. Even if you don't hav ethe jig hot enough, you should get a complete coating on the jig that will be dull looking. When that happens, just put it back in the oven and lewt it heat up. The paint will flow out. I just removed the container from my fluid bed and blew out the micro screen. I will see if this helps. If so, its going to be a lot of trouble keeping the thing cleaned out. I am working on an improvement to the small fluid bed to see if we can seal and remove the containers more easily. Let you al know how it comes out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Ratz Posted December 29, 2003 Report Share Posted December 29, 2003 A question for you guys that have CSI fluid beds, have you looked at the vibratory motor that comes on these units? I am curious if it is a self contained motor(no motor shaft) or does it use it a offset weight on a shaft to make the unit vibrate. I am making myself a fluid bed and have found some small motors that go on vibrating rock tumblers that might work. It has got my curiosity up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted December 30, 2003 Report Share Posted December 30, 2003 It has a shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
