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Artificial All The Way

Mold sealer

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I use epoxy thinned with alcohol. I thin the first coat quite a bit to allow it to soak into the pop. Then the next coat is a little less thin and the third is a little thicker than the last.

I cure it in the oven at about 200 for 30 minutes in between coats.

When you're done you should have a glassy hard finish.

I have tried Elmers glue but it didn't give me the finish I wanted.

www.novalures.com

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Hey Nova,

I tried that technique and lost a lot of detail when I used the epoxy.

Did I not thin it down enough?

I have sence used watered down elmers glue and after maybe 3 coats it seals pretty well, but I am attracted to the durability of the epoxy.

Thanks,

Willy

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Willy, you have to thin it down quite a bit. As far as loosing detail goes, it will happen to the finer details like scale patterns if you don't score them a little more with a neddle-like tool before you start to seal.

If you make your mold out of resin you will get good detail recovery. The downside to resin is the cost compared to pop and if you pour a lot of baits out of it at one time the mold will heat up, and can warp a little. Also, the higher heat will cause the smell of the resin to pass to your baits.

I guess everything is half a dozen of one and six of the other.lol

www.novalures.com

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Nova,

Good idea, score the detail parts, as it was exactly scale patterns that I was losing on my POP molds.

For the new moldmakers out there, I've tried a lot of other things like nail polish(enamel), stain sealer, engine paint, etc. Everything seemed to either peel off or bleed color/smell into the plastic eventually.

I've used the Elmers and water mix for a while, and it works, but it isn't very tough, it can be chipped, scratched, or gouged.

The Epoxy works like a charm, but Nova is correct, really thin it down and do a few coats.

For what it's worth.

Willy

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I have been using a spar urethane spray (Hellmans) and I have had no issues. It holds up to the heat just fine.

After the POP cures I apply 10 thin coats and the baits come out very glossy. After a 100 or so pours you will need to spray another thin coat and let it set up for 24 hours.

I use a very small artist brush to spread the product into the mold evenly. The jig trailers that I am making have all the details as the original master and each bait comes out great.

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I posted this on Jan 3, 2007:

Assuming you mean a sealant for a Plaster of Paris (PoP) mold, the following have all been mentioned on this forum at one time or another.

It all comes down to personal choice - what you feel works best for you:

Devcon 2 Ton® epoxy™ - Wal-Mart

Decorative Effects by Valspar, Gloss Clear Protector Gloss, P/N 93789, 100% Acrylic Latex - Home Depot / Lowe's

High temp engine paint or high heat enamel spray paint - Wal-Mart / Pep Boys / Auto Zone / etc.

Envirotex or Envirotex Lite - not sure who has it

Bar top epoxy finish (i.e. Kleer Kote table top epoxy)

Clear Satin Polyurethane spray - Wal-Mart

Fiberglass resin (aka polyester resin)

"Seal-All", made by a company called Eclectic Products Inc. out of Pineville, LA.

WD-40 - everywhere

Spray-on stone sealer - Home Depot / Lowe's

Johnson's paste wax - everywhere.

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