weighinalimit Posted December 9, 2003 Report Share Posted December 9, 2003 What are you guys using to thin devcon for coating plaster molds and as a sealer on jigs & spinnerbaits? I saw somebody post something about thinning w/ alcohol, is that denatured alcohol or what are you using? Also I saw a post saying they used flexcoat to seal, does anybody know if they're using it as-mixed or thinned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8flyz Posted December 9, 2003 Report Share Posted December 9, 2003 I use ethyl alcohol to thin epoxy, the kind sold as camp stove fuel. Many hardware stores, like Ace, carry it. Ethyl rubbing alcohol will also work, but it's only about 70 % alcohol, and will turn the epoxy a milky color when you mix, although it doesn't seem to hurt the epoxy any, and it still dries clear. Don't use isopropyl alcohol, as it won't work! Acetone can also be used to thin epoxy, but only in a very well ventilated area. Anytime epoxy is thinned, it weakens it some, but if you only use a few drops of alcohol or acetone, it's not enough to hurt it for coating purposes. I like to add the alcohol using an eye dropper, before I start mixing the epoxy, and mix everything together. It seems to mix better when I do it this way. I hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted December 9, 2003 Report Share Posted December 9, 2003 Follow the directions and mix the epoxy at room temp, devcon should never be thinned, when I spoke to the rep on this he assured me not to thin it and that doing so would weaken it, if you must thin it do it just as Gr8flyz said. I only mix enough to work with on a square of tin foil before it gets tacky, which for me is somewhere between a quarter and a fifty cent peice (if I am coating by myself). If you are coating large numbers of baits then you may want to look into flexcoat or something with a longer working time, there have been many here using Crystal Sheen that seem to like it too. Hope it helps, JIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebear Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 I agree with Celticav, I never use thinner in epoxy..I have tried using it to clear coat baits with poor results.. after the baits are in the water for extended time they want to peel..this could have been something else I did wrong.. but I never have that problem unless I try to thin it..instead I use flex coat or multi coats of Acrylic clear..just a note here.. I only use acrylic clear on baits that have been painted with acrylic colors..acrylic clear will cause jig paint to soften and run Littlebear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8flyz Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 I've never noticed any problems with epoxy that I've thinned. Most of the coating I do is on fly heads, fly popper bodies, jig heads or spinnerbait heads. I've coated a few crankbaits, but have not done enough to notice any problems. I don't ever recall having epoxy peel, but I have rubbed it off on jigheads & had some crack on spinnerbaits. I use mostly enamels & vinyl paints on jigs & spinnerbaits, which do not adhere to lead all that great anyway, and dragging jigs on the bottom or banging them or spinnerbaits into rocks will damage the epoxy. I feel they're not going to be indestructable but the epoxy coating is still better than just the paint. If you coat acrylic paints with epoxy it may peel, because the epoxy will not adhere to the paint, and especially if the acrylic has not cured long enough. Although I have coated some topwater flies that were painted with acrylic, still have never had a problem with peeling. It may be that since they float, they're not as likely to peel, but I don't know for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 When coating plaster molds I use thinned bar top epoxy for the first coat, as it will soak into the plaster better. I feel this makes the mold very strong. I don't think the finish will crack or peel it it is impregnated right into the plaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celticav Posted December 15, 2003 Report Share Posted December 15, 2003 Hey guys, I have been using a self-etching primer from Eastwood that TU member FatRatz recommended awhile back and I have to say that it really makes the paint and epoxy stick better, since I have been using it I have had alot fewer problems with devcon. It just seems to give a better base for the paint, which in turns gives a better base for the epoxy. Gr8flyz the way that you mix epoxy is probably the reason why you experience no or few problems, I have read posts where people really thin devcon alot with the idea that the thinner, usually alcohol, will evaporate away and leave only the epoxy behind. The evaporation may be why the resulting topcoat is prone to peeling and chipping, You thin yours with much more care and using stronger thinners like the acetone and ethyls you mentioned... Anytime epoxy is thinned, it weakens it some, but if you only use a few drops of alcohol or acetone, it's not enough to hurt it for coating purposes. Thats great advise to go by too, I have heard that warming devcon up slightly also helps with the working time, bubbles, and finish. I have left the tube in the sunlight on a window sill during the middle of our hot GA summer days and have noticed that it is easier to mix and does go on much smoother and much easier, but often this seems to decrease the working time and I really can not tell any other major differences. Littlebear brought up a good point about the acrylic clear on acrylic paint, a lesson I learned the hard way, lol, Hey Littlebear, have you ever used Dick Nite's clear lurecoat? Hey BigSplash are you still using Nu-Luster, that sounds like what you are talking about, LOL? I got a small quantity of it this summer after you recommended it and had mixed results, some lures were great and even on a long cast that ended on the rocks only left a dent in the lead with no cracks or anything to the finish, but others seemed to break off in huge peices when pulled thru "softer" cover like wood or even clay and would continue to chip off very easily from there, several that I did with it would break off all the epoxy on one side of the head all at once, but the other side would remain fine and stay durable and of course I coat the whole thing at one time!!!! LOL, seriously, I know from fishing the lures I have gotten from you that were topped with Nu-Luster that it is good stuff, so it must be something that I am doing wrong, any suggestions JIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebear Posted December 19, 2003 Report Share Posted December 19, 2003 Hi Guys, I just wanted to wish you all Merry Christmas that time is almost upon us.. I have never use "Dick Nite's clear lurecoat" I also think the peeling of epoxy clear may have had something to do with curing time.. I seem to have better luck with it when it cures for a few days or a week.. I know they should all cure that long any way..but I sometimes have people waiting on custom lures that will be in the water hours after they leave here..so I try to use materials that set quick and harden fast.. I will also use a heat lamp when its cold or very humid.. my need to experment gets in trouble more than anything.. but it's a learning curve.. once you have screwed up a few baits you learn what you can get by with.. I truly believe this craft is an art form.. to expaned your skills you must try to reach out to new ideas.. some will delight you and some will make you want to kick a hole in the nearest thing you can reach..LOL all in all we are better off..what we learn and share makes us more effective and our creations become more life like. Its a honnor to share ideas and know how with so many people that are so good at this craft.. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Chris Littlebear Erwin Littlebear Lures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8flyz Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 Jim, good post! Heating up the two parts of epoxy will help with mixing, as it decreases the viscosity but it does shorten the use time. Epoxy sets up as a result of a chemical reaction between the two parts, and heat is produced as part of the reaction. Additional heat speeds up the process, so if the parts are warmer when you start, you decrease the working time, and increase how fast it sets. Bubbles of course will escape easier if the mix is warmer, but since the set time is shortened, this could have the reverse effect using epoxies that have a short set time, as bubbles will be trapped as the mix hardens. Cold will slow down the process, but will also make it harder to mix the two parts because they stiffen and become more viscous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
