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ccunningham300

Powder painting jigheads with weedguards

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I just finished pouring a bunch of Weedless jig heads without the weed guards in place. Bought a 1/8" diameter steel rod, cut it into 3" lengths and put it in the mold prior to pouring. Had to put some duct tape along the groove in the mold to keep the rod from slipping out when I turned the mold up to pour. After removing head from mold rotate and rock the rod back & forth and it will come out. After powder coating drill paint out of hole, then cure, and then epoxy weed guard in place.

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The best thing that works for me is to hold a cigarette lighter below the underside of the jig head for about 10 seconds moving it back and forth then so not to burn or melt the lead. Dip it in the paint, and tap the hook on the rim to remove the excess. Doing it in the oven sucks. I melt the weedguards almost every time. If you place an epoxy finish over the powder paint it does not matter. Even with epoxy if you get the bait in rocky areas the finish is going to come off some. I almost never melt the weedguards doing it this way and drilling them is a pain.

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I bought a large bag of staws and cut them to length. I slip them over the weed guards and then heat them up. Then I remove the straw and dip them in the powder paint. The weed guards will flare alittle bit but when you put the straw back over the weed guard and bake them they will turn out like they were new.

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Powder paint that is fully cured is the hardest, most durable paint you can use. To cure, you should rack lures or parts, place in 400 degree oven for ten minutes, then remove. Allow to cool.They are now ready to use.

To paint lures with fiber or plastic weed guard, place in 225 degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes.

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