Lead heads cast in wood mold

[Big Splash]

Here are some of the lure bodies I make in a two piece wooden mold. There is a lot of detail the photo dosn't show, like fat bellies, shaped heads etc. Most can be made weight forward, or conventional style, and even hook hangers can be added. (see the TU photo gallery)

[PaBasser]

Fantastic! Could you show us all how you make those molds? I`m very interested.

PaBasser

[Big Splash]

The wooden mold is easy to build. I used a piece of pine 1x2, it MUST BE DRY WOOD!! Escaping steam from wet, or green wood could cause molten lead to splatter!!

1. Cut two pieces, same length, free of knots. See if they fit together nicley.

2. C clamp the two together and drill a hole in 2 opposing corners. To make locating pins, drive a nail, slightly larger than the holes, thru one side and out about 3/16 inch into the other side. Flip over and repeat with the other hole. Remove the C clamp. You now have a blank that will pull apart.

3.Draw a pattern on a piece of paper. Fold the paper parralel to the center-line , leaving an inch or so border from the " belly ".

4. Cut out the pattern carefully, cutting two halves at once, and leave the two attatched by a strip 1/2" at the fold. Like paper dolls.

5. I use a little Chap stick between the two halves of the paper patterns to hold them temporarily together. Use glue sparingly on the outside of the two sides of the pattern. Place the paper pattern into the two halves of the mold blank with the 1/2" strip sticking out the side. Clamp lightly. Cut off the folded part of the strip. Seperate the two halves. You should have a pattern glued on each side. I trace and remove the pattern, but you can carve right thru the paper. Carve the sprue hole leading to the belly. Countersink sprue hole.

6. Use a dremell type tool to carefully carve each side out the same (use a burr style bit) . You can test to see how well you are doing, by making a test pour. Make final adjustments. Cut a few air release lines into one side. Add grooves or pins to hold the wire in place. You can sand a little when you are done. Use sand paper folded over a pencil.(eraser end) Use caution sanding around the edges, or your mold will have excessive 'flash'.

7. The mold dosn't need to be real smooth, half a dozen castings will solve that. It will build up a carbon (char) on the inside after a few castings, don't touch or remove this protective coating, and your mold will last a long time. ( I have cast about 60- 75 lures in some of the molds and they still look good )

8. I clamp the two halves with a C clamp when pouring, but I have given thought to using a hinge and wedge system to hold the entire mold. Using one handle/hinge for all my molds. As with all molds, it works best after a few castings warm the mold up. I cast about 10-15 heads then cool the mold a bit.

It takes me less time to make one of these molds than it does to write this. (I'm a two finger typest)I make one mold and have the first piece poured within 1 hour. If you use 2 or 3 molds at once when pouring you can turn out a big pile of lure bodies in an hour.

[Celticav]

Todd, thanks for taking the time to post that, I am going to try making one myself next weekend, Jim.

[PaBasser]

Thanks for the how-to, Big Splash.

I`ll be trying to make some real soon. I can see alot of different ideas using your method.

PaBasser

[Big Splash]

This a great way to try out ideas, make a few baits for yourself etc.

You can get a finished lure to use, or you could make a more durrable mold from the prototype.