Try this

[Ed Brabant]

I had an idea on how to stop the hook from tearing through stick baits when I wacky rigged the bait. I took a 2 piece mold and on one half of the mold in the center of the bait it milled a slot .015 deep .500 wide perpendicular to the cavity. I then took a piece of fiberglass screen about 5" long and 1/2 wide. It took the strip of screen and placed it in the slot and put the mold together. I then took 2 paper binder clips and pulled the screen tight. Making sure that it remained in the slot. Then I poured the bait. Now this was my first pour but I thought it came out OK. When the plastic cooled enough to remove the baits they came out like bullets on a machine gun belt. Takin a razor blade and cutting them loose I now have stick baits with a piece of screen imbeded in the bait. And once you put a hook in the center through the plastic and through the screen the bait won't tear through. Now if I had the cable to my camera I could put pictures up. But I can't find the dam thing. But I think I may of explained it rather well. If I find the cable I will post the picture.

[King Bait Co.]

I two ideas on that on good and one not so. I wacky worm every time I fish. First that sounds like that might work. Second is if it was pulled on or hit hard on end. Would that actually tear easier and rip in half like having a perferated wacky worm with the screen in it. If all of that above does not apply your on the right track or already have a perfect wacky worm.

[redg8r]

I see your point King, but you gotta admit, it sounds much more durable than an O-ring......

Fantastic first post, welcome to the fold.

[Ed Brabant]

Actually the plastic flows through the screen encapsulating the screen. Increasing the area that has to pull through. Not just a hook that is 1/32 or so in diamiater. In a hernia operation they sometimes put a mesh in the area ofthe hernia. Then the body grows around the mesh thus increasing the strenght of the area. The same thing happens here.

[King Bait Co.]

I am not saying it won't work by any means. When I pictured it in my head it looks as if would tear away. I see now what your saying about molding around the screen. The doctor slash hand pour made me see what you had ment.

[bojon]

Years ago I used used BOUNCE dryer sheets to reinforce joints on some small projects I was working on.Using it with epoxy made a very strong joint.I wonder if this would work to reinforce the plastic bait,like the screen idea.Just a thought.

[One Sock]

hell with what it costs to make baits, i'll trade a bait and maybe even two for a fish anyday :-)

[Ed Brabant]

Here are a few pictures of the process. The pour quality has improved. It was my first shot.

[Richard Prager]

Thanks for the follow up. Have you fished them yet and if so, what hook are you using?

[BigBassBo]

What about inserting like a tube of the mesh into the mold instead of a single piece. That way it goes around the whole bait and you can hook any way you want and still have that support.

[Ed Brabant]

I don't know why but I could not post all day yesterday But now I can. Oh well. I fish the baits wacky with a 1/0-2/0 ownwer riggin hook. Had good luck with the today had a few 3+ pounders with the baits. I think a finer screen will work better. I am going to try and find some. As far as a tube of screen. I think that it ay be a bugger getting the screen in the bait. The slot in the mold holds the screen very well. I a not sure how to locate a tube. But I will give it some thought and if I can think of a way to hold the screen in and make the preforms easly I will give it a try. If anyone has any ideas don't be afraid to post them. Thanks.

[King Bait Co.]

The mesh would work the best. I think if you put a tube or something hard that has limited flex to it. The stik would rip apart or a end would rip off. If it was hit from the side.

[BigBassBo]

messed up this post

Edited June 23, 2008 by BigBassBo
accidental post

[BigBassBo]

King Bait Co,

I was refering to a tube of mesh. Like a piece of mesh rolled up. That way you could hook it anyway you wanted and still have that hook through the mesh.

Edited June 23, 2008 by BigBassBo

[JSC]

Don't know exactly how he could get a tube inside of a closed mold in one certain spot ?? Maybe some one else has a better idea but the way it is being done appears to be the most logical .....

My 2 cents

JSC

[King Bait Co.]

BigBassBo has a good idea you would have to put the rolled up mesh in the mold like a lamanet. Pour half in when its apart then put the mesh tube in while its still hot. Then pour the same or diffrent color in after you put it back together. It should stay in place that way. We can do anything on this site if we put are heads together. I bet in a year or so the big timers will have stole this idea of Ed Barbant. Then he won't get any credit for it their million dollar theifs I mean reserch and feild team will. Just think we copy them we get sued and they copy us they make millions. What a perfect world!

[JSC]

Just a note .... The first "Chunks" on the market were made by Burke (to the best of my knowaldge (sp)) and they laid in a piece of fabric to reinforce it ... It was tough but ... it really stiffened it ... I still have a couple out in the shop (I think) ... I think EBs idea can be pushed a little further. I follow with intrest.

JSC

[BigBassBo]

I tried to post last night but the site said the server was busy. I think the easiest way would be to just place the mesh tube in the mold and shut the mold. then pour. If your tube is the right size you shouldnt have that many problems pouring.

[Ed Brabant]

I have gone from standard window screen to a finer mesh that I found on line to aluminum screen last night. I am seeing an improvement with bait retention. I have been thinking about the "tube" idea. I was wondering about how you could place the "tube" in the bait. I never thought about pouring 1 half of the mold and then inserting that "tube" I guess because I am new to pouring. What would be really nice if I could find someone who makes the prefoms. Something like a filter screen. I am actually looking at brass filter screen through www.mcmastercarr.com . But if I could get it as a tube preform that would be nice. I will keep you all posted.

[Senkosam]

Great idea Ed! Would plastic screen work? I was even thinking of placing an O-ring in the mold midway down, closing it and then pouring. Of course the O-ring would have to be slightly smaller or equal in diameter to the cavity, The ring could be in any position - upright and perpendicular to the axis or laying down, centered and parallel to the axis, depending on how one hooks the stick.

The screen idea is the easiest and fastest method and also seems like it might give an interesting internal scale pattern if cut longer.

Edited June 25, 2008 by Senkosam

[Ed Brabant]

I think plastic might so long as it can take the heat. I also was thinking of an O ring molded into the bait. I was going to mold the O ring in the same position that it would be in if you slip the O ring over the bait. I just need to take the mold to the auto parts store and find one that fits. I have also poured the bait with no screen in the slot and the part has only a very tiny flash. It was mentioned before about cutting a mold up. With no pressure on the cavity when it's poured it wont blow out the slot. If anything it would be an extra vent. With out a strain guage I can say that I have x amount of added retention. If I had to guess it would be 25-30% more right now. The only issue I see now is the strenght of the screen. It is it's weakest trying to tear one from the other. Some type of cloth or a substance such as a dryer sheet that some one else mentioned may work well. I am on rev 3 right now. I have about 4 more revisions that I want to try. They sell a bonded type of stainless screen that is a bit pricy. Mabey I can fenagle a few samples from a vendor.

Edited June 25, 2008 by Ed Brabant

[BigBassBo]

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.filter-wiremesh.com/wire_mesh_images/big_images/1-02.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.wiremesh-py.com/wire-mesh-html/mesh-tubes-cylinders.html&h=860&w=1010&sz=81&hl=en&start=7&um=1&tbnid=6tCJN25778njVM:&tbnh=128&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsmall%2Bmesh%2Btubes%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG Edited June 26, 2008 by BigBassBo
too big of picture

[BigBassBo]

OR

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.tpwiremesh.com/en_wiremesh_html/mesh_tubes_clip_image001.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.tpwiremesh.com/en_wiremesh_html/filters_tubes.html&h=190&w=250&sz=13&hl=en&start=35&um=1&tbnid=DmSRmlUzpfRuOM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=111&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dproduce%2Bsmall%2Bmesh%2Btubes%26start%3D20%26ndsp%3D20%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN

[Ed Brabant]

The filter at work won't let me acess the site. But I do see an image. I will check it out at home. That looks very interesting if they have them as small as I need. Thanks.

[nova]

I've used split rings in open molds before and they work well.

What about split rings spaced out held together with a fine thread. You may not even need to modify the stick mold for the string if it's fine enough.

www.novalures.com