dar3 Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 I recentlypurchased some molds, plastic ,glitter and a lee pot to start pouring my own plastics. These items were used and there is no instructions at all. This is for my own use and also some therapy for me to keep my mind occupied. I tried to mix a batch last night and it did not get hard. Then this morning I guess I burnt it because it turned to a jello like substance. I have read some of the post in the archives and on other forums on plastics but I just can not get it right. Is there anybody on here who would be willing to coach me along for a few batches I would greatly appreciate it. We can do it on the post or through pms not to clog the threads. Any info would be greatly appreciated. D3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinamike Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 D3, How long did you heat your plastic? I've used Lee's pots for years. I usually set the dial on 4 or 5 and it takes about an hour to fully heat the plastic. Around the consistency of pancake syrup is what you're looking for. What size Lee pot are you using? If you're using the small one, watch your temperature. My small ones tend to heat up faster than the large ones. I add my coloring before I heat my plastic, and then add salt, scent and flake after the plastic is heated and ready to pour. If you're adding salt, watch your temperature. It tends to build up a little more after you add the salt, but to me, it sounds like you're not getting your plastic hot enough. Don't worry, this happens to everybody when they start pouring. Warning, THIS HOBBY IS VERY ADDICTIVE! You'll start out making for yourself, then a buddy or two, then some local guy at the tackle shop will want to buy a few and before you know it, you're a junkie. And as far as I know, there are no rehabs, unless the lakes dry up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Bait Co. Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Hey 152nd you just set your pots to 4 or 5. I set my pots (lee's production pot IV) at 8 to pour or am I over heating it. Now I need help!!!!! dar3 it takes a little time to get it down once you learn the plastic out its all down hill from their (the good down hill). Heres what I did put some in a pyrex pour cup. FORGOT make sure!!!!! you shake the plastic in the jug till it is mixed (#1 problem). Then put it in the microwave and heat it up 25 seconds at a time but stir each time then you should get a feel of the heating up stages of the plastic. Only heat it up till it is clear and a little runny to use. You don't have to add any thing to it you can remelt it later. I am still learning as we speak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pastorshane Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 dar3, i don't use a lees pot, I use a micro and a presto pot/mixer for large batches. But some guy's heat the plastic in micros and when the plastic is ready to pour they pour it into the lees pot to stay warm longer. I used a burner in the begining, but found the micro easier. I do 4 oz and 2/3 cup batches in the same pattern. I pour plastic,salt, coloring, scent, and flake, into the pyrex cup. Stir it before heating to mix the colors well. Then heat 1 min. Then stir, then another minute, then stir weeeeeell. If the plastic is not smooth, and the concistancy of warm syrup as others have said, i'LL reheat 30-40 seconds more stir well and pour. One way to tell if the plastic is to hot to pour is if the flake will not suspend, keep stirring until it does. If the flake doesn't suspend neither will the salt if added. You want concistant baits. You'll get the hang of it. But I would go with a micro to start out. Just my opinion. Feel free to pm me if I can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Bait Co. Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 The more I read the post it feels like you were on your way to getting it hot enough. It will turn to a jello before it turns into a syrup but you should be stiring all the time while its heating up. It will skin up on top as it heats up that why you have to stir a lot. Also the plastic in the middle maybe a diffrent temp then the plastic on the sides of the pot. So just keep stiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 DAR3 It is a job to cook the plastisol in a small Lees Pot ... Pouring with it is a lot easier but temp control on all of them (as others will testify) will vary a lot from pot to pot. I prefer when using the Lees Pot is to Micro Wave then use the Pot to pour ... Everyone to what works the best for you .. I will look up the tutorial on using a Lees Pot ... JSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 dar3 This has been posted several times and I belive I got it off of Del's Site. JSC --------------------------------- Using Lee Production Pots By: Shawn Carnahan May 08, 2007 Pouring plastic with pots can be effectively accomplished, providing one simple rule is followed: The user must control the heat in each pot to keep the plastic at the correct temperature without over-heating. To accomplish this, the user must understand how the pot works and what accessories are needed for proper monitoring. How the Pot Works Production pots are heated using a heating coil similar to an electric stove element. This coil is located inside the casing of the pot, about one inch from the bottom. Power to the heating coil is controlled by a thermostatic switch which is located in the case behind the pot, and attached to a user control switch. A common misconception is that the thermostat switch adjusts the power level ( and thus the heat ) supplied to the heating coil. It does not. It simply turns full power on or off to the coil. The control knob on top of the thermostat is used to find the point at which electrical contact is made to supply full power to the coil. The numerical level of the knob for electrical contact can vary from pot to pot. The thermostat senses the radiant heat of the pot and opens or closes the electrical contacts depending on this radiant heat. This is important to understand if the pots are located in a very cold or hot location, as the surrounding air temperature can affect the temperature being sensed by the thermostat, and cause power to be supplied or turned off at incorrect pot temperatures. Having wind or a fan blowing directly on the pots can also affect thermostat operation. The biggest problem facing the user is that he has no way to tell when full power to the heating coil is on or off. Thus, he is always in danger of over-heating the plastic and burning it. With this in mind, I have developed several accessories and procedures to help keep plastic at the correct pouring temperature. Temperature Control Accessories Thermostat Power Light Adding a light to the thermostat power wire will enable the user to always tell whether the pot’s heat coil is on or off. The electrical wiring in the pot is very simple and can be seen by removing the cover plate the thermostat switch is mounted on. ( four ¼” hex-head screws ) I use a small 1” round night light with flat face for the thermostat light. These night lights can be found a Lowes. While at the store, also purchase four wire connectors ( per pot ) similar to the ones you will see attaching the wires to the heating coil, some electrical wire and superglue. Cut two 5” wires and attach one to each prong on the night light using the new wire connectors. Now, pull the wire connector leading from the thermostat to the heat coil ( at the thermostat side ), clip the connector off and attach a new connector which contains the original wire and one of the wires attached to the light. Re-attach the connector to the thermostat. Be very careful, the thermostat is fragile. Next, pull the power cord wire which attaches directly to the other side of the heating coil. Clip the connector off and attach a new connector containing the power cord wire and the remaining wire from the light. Re-attach the connector to the heat coil. Drill a 3/8” hole in the thermostat cover plate, centered and about ¾” from the existing mounting plate screw hole on the right side of the cover plate. Now, using superglue, attach the flat top side of the light to the underside of the cover plate over the hole you drilled, making sure it does not extend close to the cover plate edge where it might interfere with re-assembly. Once dry, re-assemble the cover plate, making sure none of the internal wires touch the thermostat or heating coil. If done correctly, the light will be on anytime power to the heat coil is on. Thermometers Thermometers must be used in each pot to monitor the actual heat of the plastic. Candy thermometers with a temperature range up to 400 degrees can be purchased at most local grocery stores. To get accurate readings, the thermometer should be suspended in the pot without touching the sides or bottom. I accomplish this by attaching a holder to each pot. Get a heavy gauge paper-clip and straighten it out. Bend a small loop at one end and then bend the loop 90 degrees from the straight wire. Attach the loop to the top of the pot with the paperclip wire pointing straight up, by removing one of the ¼” hex head screws holding down the weighted pouring bar. Now, bend the top of the wire down past 90 degrees towards the pot at a height that will allow your thermometer to hang in the pot , just out of contact with the side and bottom. Bend the last ¼” of the wire back upward to hold the thermometer in place. With the light and thermometer in place, you will have very precise control over the heat of your plastic. Here are some other tips to successful production pot use. Use a small diameter, 8” long wooden dowel in each pot to keep your plastic stirred. Do not use the glass thermometer for stirring unless you like glass in your worms. Plastic should be stirred every few minutes throughout the initial heating process, and between each mold pouring to ensure uniform color and flake mixtures. Pots should be kept filled above the level that the heating element is located to ensure uniform heating. I keep at least half the pot full when possible. As you start to empty out a pot during pouring, you will need to monitor the heat more closely. All plastics will begin to burn if they reach a sustained heat of over 375 degrees for more than a few minutes. CPC Plastic pours best at a sustained temperature of 340 - 350 degrees. LureCraft and MF Plastic pours best at a sustained temperature of 330 - 340 degrees. Make sure you pour in an area with good ventilation. Heated plastic is not good to breathe. I have a range hood with an exhaust fan above my pots in the garage with a vent pipe leading outside. I also use several box fans to keep air circulating, and I wear a dust mask. Do not pour indoors. The plastic smell permeates, and your non-fishing friends will not understand. To clean pots after use, allow the remaining plastic to cure completely. Remove the two screws holding the pouring bar on and set aside the bar and plunger. The plastic can usually be removed in one piece and stored for re-use when that color is needed again. Wipe out the inside of the pot with a paper towel and re-install the plunger and pouring bar. A small amount of WD-40 sprayed into the pot will keep it from rusting and also add some natural fish oil scent to your next pouring project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dar3 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Thanks to all who have replied. I will be going to get a pyrex container and a small microwave as I can not us ethe wifes for cooking plastics. Jsc I saw that over at dels sight and I thought maybe I could wing it I should have known better. It is really hard with a small pot to do exactly what you guys said. I realy appreciate all the valuable information you guys have supplied me with. also I will be getting a thermoeter to test the temp. Boy you guys are right that this turns into an addiction. I will post as soon as I get the other materials I need. The thing that is a bummer is I just took apart a microwve about two weeks ago for the motor to make a drying wheel. Damnit. I guess I will have to dig up some money and go to one of the thrift shops around here and see what I can find. Once again thanks a bunch and I am sure I will have some more questions. The guys that gave me the ok to contact them off the forum I will keep in touch and hopefully we will be able to share some tips along the way. Dar3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Bait Co. Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 Here's the best way to get a new microwave. Wait for a sale on a new 73" HD TV. Then talk your wife into the TV after she agrees. Tell the people at the store to throw a microwave in and you will by it. Thats how you get your dream TV and a new microwave. Then you can pour worms at your neighbors house and stink it up and watch TV though the window at yours. Then come home to a fresh smelling house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojon Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 You can get a nice micro wave at yard sales for almost nothing.If you use it carefully and vent,you can keep the oder down.Most of the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinamike Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 See, you're in trouble now. You mentioned that "W" word (wife). You've already got all this information on how to feed your addiction, it won't be long till you'll be hunting for your own little separate room or garage to try to make peace with Miss "W". Good Luck! I don't think they get over it neither. If I can ever be of any help, just let me know. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...