HJS Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 After many attempts, I finally made two passable 2-piece molds using PoP and 4" paddletail Bass Assassins as masters. Pictured is one of the molds and the end result... almost free lures. (used recycled plastics) Thanks to everyone who offered advise. Based on advise, I bored the pour holes bigger, as big as a pencil, to facilitate pouring. I never let the pour trickle touch the side of the pour hole (or almost never). Also, I topped off each mold ~3 times to minimize shrinkage gaps at the pour hole. Topping off was easier said then done because it was difficult to know when the plastic was approaching the top. Each top-off had to stop just short of the pour hole, wait 15 seconds, then pour a little more, wait, and repeat again. If plastic rose up into the pour hole during one of the intermediate pours it was a done deal, shrinkage or no shrinkage. Also, in another thread in TU, I learned how to properly mix PoP. That is, to pour cold water in the mixing bowl first THEN sprinkle in dry PoP as I stirred until it looked like extra heavy cream (or 90W gear oil). As far as bubble control, this technique made a HUGE MAJOR difference. Whats really kool about these molds is that the resulting lures barely have any mold lines. As a matter of fact, the factory mold line from the masters was more discernable than mine...KEWL!!! On the down side, pouring 2-piece molds takes maybe 2x-3x longer per pouring than 1-piece mold, mostly due to topping off repeatedly as well as a longer cooling time before lures can be removed from the mold... but they sure are pertty!! Thanks again for all the advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basseducer Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 HJS, Good job on your mold, baits look ready to eat. You might want to pour your plastic all the way to the top of the pour hole. This will make it easier to see when the plastic starts to shrink and easier to keep it full. Then when you demold you simply cut off the gate. You may also consider flaring the pour hole to hold more plastic when you top off, this may save you from topping off so many times. TJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 There you go; now you're on the right track. enjoy. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 (edited) excellent job. Because PoP is so cheap, many people may be thinking that it is a second rate mold material. With your professional seamless baits, I think more will now give it a try. I personally did not have much success with hard baits. The "hard mold - soft bait" rule is very relevant. I will have to try with the resin, it is not as sticky as foam (disastrous!). Edited June 19, 2008 by Vodkaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDC Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 I'll second what Basseducer said. Extend the funnel shape of the gate to where it is just shy of the head of your bait. It will hold more plastic and as they begin to shrink the extra plastic will be drawn into the cavity. You will still need to top off but this will make it easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Bait Co. Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Vodkaman have you seen some of the soft plastics the big guys are comming out with. They call them hand poured but my first POP molds produced better looking baits and they charge more. MDC you will have to let me in on your 2-piece secret mine keep comming out like crap. I can't get one right POP is cheap I wasted a quater bag already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 King. Rather than struggle on your own, you should post your problems, that is part of what TU is for. You would be doing everyone a favour. Others will learn. Often it is the little things that can make a difference. These are so small, they never get mentioned. Such as keeping a favourite mixing container, one with rounded corners. You can get your fingers in there and no powder gets missed. I use a 1.5 ltr icecream container. Always mix next to the sink, makes clean up easier. NEVER pour unused plaster down the sink. You'll only do it once. As you make more, this library of knowledge builds and the operation slickens. At the start, write the amounts of PoP and water that you use, so when you get a good one, you will be able to repeat the feat. I'm new to it all myself, so I don't have many tips to share, but all that small tips stuff would add up and make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 (edited) Always mix next to the sink, makes clean up easier. NEVER pour unused plaster down the sink. You'll only do it once. Vman, What if you pour the unused plaster down the sink with the disposal running?:DHave a good afternoon. Edited June 21, 2008 by Spike-A-Pike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDC Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 King, Vman is right on. If your having problems, post up and someone who has had a similar problem will help you. To be honest I normally use resin if I'm making my own mold, but with all of the chatter lately about two piece POP molds I decided to try it. I used regular POP, not the craft grade. I read lots of post by searching and basically just took all of the tips and headed to the garage. This was before someone posted about mixing elmers in with the POP, but I'll probably try it next time. I made a mold of a crappie bait so it is pretty small. I poured the first half and let it dry for a couple of hours coated with a thin coat of Vaseline, then poured the second half. I let it set for about another hour and a half then seperated it before it completely dried so it wouldn't be as stuck together. After a day of fishing, I baked it in the oven at 225 or so for about 5-6 hours while working on the bathroom remodel. 3 coats of 50/50 elmers school glue and water sat overnight. The next night I poured about 30 baits. I didn't vent it at all and it pours pretty good with regular plastic and pours great with super soft. Everything I did is posted here on TU. I think the day of fishing was the key though. No joke, the biggest mistake I used to make when making molds was being impatient. I know you want to see what it looks like under there, but take your time through all the steps and let things happen. Just like a Hot chick! Act like you don't care if it happens and the next thing you know it's happening. I'm in the process of making a mold out of tile grout. Remember the bathroom project. I had 3/4 of a bag left over. Talk about waiting for something to dry. More on this in a few days, don't want to hijack the thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJS Posted June 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 Earlier in this thread I explained how a hollow would form in the tip of my lures as the plastic cooled and shrank. I'm using the 2-piece mold pictured above. Topping off helped some to solve this problem but it still persisted to an annoying degree. MDC suggested I should try boring a larger & deeper pour hole that stops just short of the tip of the lure. Sorta make a reservoir to hold excess hot plastic so it can be sucked in as the plastic shrunk. So that's just what I did using a 3/4" drill. The results were MUCH better. No shrinkage, problem solved, thanks everyone. George Castanza would be proud of me (shrinkage). Another question: You guys that make 2-piece molds out of PoP, do you seal both the lure cavities AND the interior flat surfaces? When I sealed my mold with 50/50 Elmers/water I only sealed the lure cavities, being very care not to get sealing agent on the flat interior surfaces. I was concerned that the sealing agent might compromise the close fit of the 2 halves. However, after several pourings, I notice as I was pulling out the hardened lures that the sharp edge at the lure/flat-surface interface is starting to chip away ever so. I'm starting to see more pronounced mold lines in my lures than I would like. Now I'm thinking I should seal the entire interior surface to strengthen the plaster edge against chipping. So, do you guys also seal the flat surfaces or should I leave them raw plaster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted June 21, 2008 Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 HJS. Very good question, I should have asked it a long time ago. I haven't made enough molds to advise on that. But adding Elmers to the water, prior to adding the PoP, will help with the edges. It toughens up the whole mold, they even feel better. Try 10% and see what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted June 21, 2008 Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 I seal my molds with thinned epoxy. When I seal the mold the first time I do the whole interior of the mold. This will strengthen the POP around the opening of the cavities. POP is soft and the more you use it (unsealed) abrasions will take place. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted June 21, 2008 Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 I multiple coat the entire cavity and front of the mold. I do this with thinned epoxy. It soaks right into the mold and I keep repeating until the cavity begins to loose it dullness (epoxy has penetrated and sealed a into the mold). At this point no more epoxy goes onto the face and in doing so I don't change anything about the face that will sit flush with the other side. I then continue the cavities with the thinned epxoy until shiny. I find this gives the best detailed bait and my pop molds have been going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJS Posted June 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 I think I read elsewhere on TU that alcohol is used to thin epoxy... am I right? Are you all referring to the cheap rubbing alcohol thats available at drugstores? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted June 21, 2008 Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 I think I read elsewhere on TU that alcohol is used to thin epoxy... am I right? Are you all referring to the cheap rubbing alcohol thats available at drugstores? Yes. The first time I thin it I get it quite watery so that it will soak into the pop easily. Then I get a little thicker with each succesive coat.(but not to thick) www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
