Making large lures float and sit upright

[tmrfish]

Hi folks,

I'm completely new (Just started a couple of days ago) to lure making and am hoping to get some expert advise.

I'm trying to make large plastic lures for musky and pike. Because they are large, I am using two treble hooks attached to a wire that runs through the lure. With that extra metal hardware, the lures sink. I want to make them float or at least neutrally buoyant. I've added the "floater bubbles" and they help but it still isn't enough. I'll try adding more bubbles tonight but if it is still not enough, is there something else I can add?

Also, the front of the lure dives because that's where most of the hardware is. Is there a way to make the front of the lure more buoyant than the rear to combat the weight of the hooks and keep the bait from nose-diving when the line is slack.

These large plastic lure are much more complicated than the smaller ones!

I appreciate any advise.

TMR

[nova]

If you are using an open mold to pour these baits you can get yourslef one of those large syringes they use to inject turkeys and just after you pour the bait, stick the needle in and force air into the bait making an air bubble. This will help to float your bait. Just don't make the bubble so big as to mishape the bait and try to place the bubble in a place that won't get pierced by the hook.

www.novalures.com

Edited June 19, 2008 by nova

[tmrfish]

Thanks,

That may solve both my problems if I can get enough air into the the lure to make it float and place the bubbles where they need to be to make the lure sit upright!

I'll try it.

[nova]

Glad I could help. Let us know how you make out.

www.novalures.com

[King Bait Co.]

Here's another idea insted of using wire to connect the hooks try using braided line that may help keep the weight down.

[Senkosam]

No salt; soft plastic (less hardener to weigh down the lure)

My first 5" sticks maintained an angle greater than 45 degrees off bottom.

Injecting air has never worked for me, but if you must have the highest floating tail, pour tail 1/3 to coat the mold sides; imediately pour the hot center out; open mold and cut out the plastic above the tail; plug the tail by pouring the rest of the body. You should have a sealed, elongated cavity in the tail section.

[tmrfish]

I tried getting a syringe. the only one I could get was a surgical syringe. I put bubbles in my lure, but they floated up right away. I should have let the plastic cool a bit more. The metal tip of the syringe is now clogged so I couldn't try again last night.

KBC - I thought about using mono or braided, but I don't want fish to be able to cut through it, so I'd like to stick with wire.

Senkosam - I had to read your post a couple of times to understand what you mean. But, I get it now. That idea sounds like it is worth exploring.

Thanks guys

TMR

[Senkosam]

The idea came to me when I was getting a large air bubble in my stick molds near the top, so I figured that trapping air in the rear would work (kind of like a fart that can't go anywhere). It works! I've made a stick body completely hollow using that process.

[Spike-A-Pike]

tmrfish,

Depending on the gauge of the needle on your syringe, you might be able to clear the needle by pulling the plunger completely out of the syringe to let it fill with air and push the plunger in just far enough to start it. Holding the syringe read, you'll need to compress plunger all the way into the barrel of the syringe while holding heat to the needle of the syringe. Since going to disposable needles back in the 60s, be careful how much heat you apply or you could melt the plastic that holds needle to the syringe.

Just another thought, before you go the heating route, you might try filling the barrel with water about 75% of the way, then push the plunger all the way. The fact that the water won't compress, might get the plastic to discharge. Good luck.

Edited June 20, 2008 by Spike-A-Pike
Another idea...

[nova]

This is why I suggested that you use a turkey syringe. It has a very large bore needle, thicker steel, and would be easier to clear. You shouldn't be getting too much plastic into the needle section. Are you pulling the plunger back after it's in the plastic?

www.novalures.com

[bojon]

Years ago I wanted to do about the same thing on a very large shad I was making for Stripers in Tims Ford in Tenn.I poured the shad with the back up and about 3/4 to 1 inch wide.By taking a aluminum Rod that was made to look like a T with the wire handle suspended on the POP mold edge.This when cooled,and removed made a cavity that I filled with cork popper stock.It was then super glued shut.The belly was tapered to a rather thin profile.This was a about a foot long and 5 inches deep lure that I wanted to to fish like what nowdays is called a swim bait.Made one,hooked a large stripper,and the lure was totaled.For the time involved,and the amount of plastic used it was not a worthwhile project.Just one of the stupid things I've done over the years.