scbassman28 Posted June 21, 2008 Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 I am about to make my first resin mold. I will be using a non stick baking dish. What kind of release do I need to put in the dish before pouring the mold if any? I don't think it will stick. I was just wanting to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted June 21, 2008 Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 Sray it with Pam. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbassman28 Posted June 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 Thank You. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbassman28 Posted June 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 Can you make a 2 part resin mold. If so, what do you use between halves to keep from sticking together when making it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted June 22, 2008 Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 Good question; I've never tried, but I'm sure someone has. I would think that pam would work. (I've got shares in the comany;lol) www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COBRA Posted June 22, 2008 Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 i have made two piece resin molds. its a 50/50 shot, some came out, others nuked! lots of vaseline, pam does work but the heat from the curing process will disperse and the mold will stick sometimes. then they are ruined Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDC Posted June 22, 2008 Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 Like Cobra said resin may or may not work for 2pc. It tends to warp. Mix 75/25 Bondo and resin and use liquid hardner instead of the cream hardner. Vaseline and teflon thread seal tape between the halves should keep them from sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Bait Co. Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 Would spraying them with WD-40 help them not stick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDC Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 I've never tried WD40 but vaseline will work on bondo. I only takes a thin coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 I tried an experiment last week. I mixed a teaspoon of silicone micro spheres with some vaseline. The theory being that, if the vaseline gets absorbed, which it does, a thin layer of silicone dust will keep the surfaces separated. It worked. As MDC stated, vaseline does work, this just worked a bit better. This trial was with RTV, but has to be worth a trial with polyester resin. The micro spheres may help with the shrinkage of the mold if you mix it with the polyester resin. Detail will still be good, only the mold will be opaque white rather than transparent pink (well mine is pink!). As this stuff is relatively cheap compared with RTV, it is worth experimenting with and teaching us all a thing or two. For my bodies, I mix 3.5grams of spheres with 20 grams of resin. This is quite a thick mix, so I would suggest 2.5 - 3.0 grams per 20 gram of resin, for a little more fluidity. Keep us all informed of your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDC Posted June 24, 2008 Report Share Posted June 24, 2008 I may not have been clear in my post. I have mixed 75 percent bondo body filler with 25 percent poly resin and use the liquid hardner that comes with the resin instead of the cream hardner that comes with the body filler. this should give you a medium that is some what pourable and will greatly reduce shrinking and warping that you get with the resin alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 25, 2008 Report Share Posted October 25, 2008 I have just done a release agent test for two piece polyester (fibreglass) resin. I used floor tile wax. I remember someone mentioning floor wax here on TU. It worked extremely well. The two halves came apart with no effort at all. I applied a thin coat of the wax with a piece of kitchen roll and gave it half an hour to harden. I could only find a 1Kg tin of the stuff, so have enough for ten life times. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zbass Posted October 26, 2008 Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 I have made many resin molds and have yet to try a 2 sided one. It seems to me that it is a crap shoot as far as the amount of shrinkage during the cure time of the resin. There are other materials that don't require a science degree to make. I don't mean any disrespect Vodkaman because when it comes to the how and why questions on experiments, you da bomb! Zbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 26, 2008 Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 No sweat Zbass, just reporting back a result. The big problem here in Indonesia is that the postal system REALLY sucks, so I would prefer to try to source all my materials locally, at least for now. But sooner or later, I am going to have to pay and put my trust in the couriers, Assuming that I can find suppliers prepared to deal with Indonesia, most will NOT! Probably for the same reasons. Stuff just goes missing. Because of the above problems and my requirement for a light body, I have abandoned molding and am designing a duplicator machine. This will give me the good repeatability for the bodies, a quality that molding was going to give me. Ballast is critical for my lure designs, so now I will only have to account for variations in wood density, from batch to batch. The resin mold is for lead ballast weights, so the shrinkage is not going to be a big problem. I have sourced a polyester filler, I presume is similar to bondo, so will try out MDC's suggestion of a 75/25 mix filler/resin. When I do manage to source materials, they are usually very cheap, resin $2.80 per liter, filler $2.00 per Kg, floor wax $3.25 per Kg. But still looking for certain materials, a decent top coat, sealer and spray paints. They are all here, just got to find them, in this matrix of side streets called Bandung. I even bought a GPS system to help! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted November 1, 2008 Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 I just made a two piece mold, using the 75/25 filler/resin combo suggested by MDC (post #11). There was no shrinkage and detail was good. You have to be generous with the wax as a release agent on the mold box. My first attempt tore chunks out of the box with just a thin wipe of wax. I laid it on thicker for the second half. This solved the problem. I did get a little flash, probably due to the wax, so next time I will reduce the wax on the mating face. Handling the materials and the molding process was clean, simple and very quick. Organisation is the secret. Thanks MDC, good one. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted November 1, 2008 Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 Dave; This just popped into my mind as I was reading your last post about the flashing due to too much wax. Can teflon be found in a sheet? I'm talking about the same thickness as thread tape you buy that is 1/2" wide. Nothing sticks to it and I was thinking if a larger piece could be found, it could be shaped over the first part of the 2 piece. I've never seen teflon that big; but I've never looked for it either. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted November 1, 2008 Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 My first test with the wax, was a very thin coating, using pure resin. It popped apart so easy. When I poured the first half, I had the binding to the box problem. So when I poured the second half, I crapped out and put a much thicker coat on. The clean flat surface of the mold probably does not need such a thick coating. Your teflon idea would work, as the sheet would be a constant thickness. But I have never seen it on sheets. Thanks for the idea. Winding the tape around my box sections is a good option. feels messy when everything is coated with wax. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDC Posted November 1, 2008 Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 Glad that worked out Dave. I normally used vaseline but sounds like I need to try the floor wax. The heat of the compounds does melt the vaseline and cause it to soak in some, so I do have to pry on the halves some which has caused a few molds to break. Sounds like your floor wax may be the cure. Thanks for testing and posting the results. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kajan Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Yep, you can buy teflon in sheets. They use them on bottom of air boats to reduce friction. But you could also try some polyethelene. Starboard material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Kajan; how thick is the teflon sheet? www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kajan Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 (edited) Nova, I would say sheets I have seen on air boats were 1/2 - 5/8" thick. Maybe 3/4". But I am sure the sheets prob go up to 1" or more in thickness. I had pc of a sheet at shop that ws about 1/4" thick. I keep it for when I need washers or slides. I also know you can't glue Starboard either, HDPE >> High Density PolyEthylene. Edited November 2, 2008 by Kajan Add Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 (edited) Kajan; I was thinking of something a lot thinner. More like the thickness of thread tape (teflon). That would allow it to comfrom to all the shapes of the mold without causing too much flashing when you pour the plastic. I think I know the stuff you are speaking about. Some of the guys up here use it on their trailer bunks so the boats will slide on and off easier. There is a down side to it though. You don't want to unhook your boat before you get it to the water because the boat will slide right off the bunks and onto the ground; which I've seen before and it's not pretty. Takes about 15 guys to put the boat back on the trailer,lol. www.novalures.com Edited November 2, 2008 by nova Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kajan Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 (edited) I thought maybe you wanted to melt it and pour over. But I guess you could shave what ever thickness you wanted also. I don't know what melting pt is though. Or you could use it for the master and resin would not stick to it. But just for local knowledge you can get sheets of Teflon to use how ever anyone needs it. Edited November 2, 2008 by Kajan Just cause Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Never thought of a teflon master; but that may be a good idea. The idea of the teflon tape was to cover the first part of a 2 piece mold so that the second part won't stick to the first part. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
