Zbass Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 The other day I was making a mold and decided to take some pics while I did. There hav been a few threads on resin molds lately so I thought I could show some of my process. Pic #1 shows the wax masters super glued to a ceramic tile. The form is held in place and sealed to the tile with caulking. The inside surfaces of the mold are coated with vaseline as a release agent. The tile has a smooth enough surface so I don't have to coat it. Pic#2 is taken during the pouring process. Patience is king. Do not get in a hurry when fill the form. Normally you will have a good 10 to 15 minutes to get the form filled before any reaction starts to occur. Take the time and let the resin flow to and around the master. If you have grooves or details that need help filling, use a toothpick and drag the resin into the detail. I have not had a problem with the resin showing detail and have also made a few hollow baits with the toothpick drag. DO NOT pour over the master as this will cause a lot of bubbles and ! Pic #3 is of the finished mold. The flash has been trimmed away using a xacto knife while it is still warm. You can wait until it is cured to trim but you will need a Dremel tool at that point. Using wax for my masters always leaves some in the mold. I pour some junk plastic or old baits through it a couple of times and it is ready to go. I have not had the guts to try a 2pc mold yet, but an getting real close. I really like the one sided glide a hand pour has. Anyway, I hope this helps someone. Zbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 nice molds Z-bass, thats a good idea with tile causes its cheap and avail everywhere and gives a nice flat finish on the top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONKEYqpHUNTER Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 what kind of resin are you using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGrant Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Very nice looking molds zbass. Is there any particular reasons you choose to make your molds from resin rather than pop? Just curious. I almost use the exact same process with pop, except instead of a tile I use a glass shelf from an old entertainment center Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDC Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Zbass may have different reasons but, resin is much harder/durable than POP and you don't have the issues with sealing. You can make your mold and be pouring baits in an hour or two, where as POP takes a couple of days to dry and seal. There is also less potential for air bubbles with resin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zbass Posted July 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Thanks Delw. Got the tiles for next to nothing. Tried using glass once. ONCE! the heat from the curing process broke the glass. MH. I use Bondo fiberglass resin. That is the only brand I will use as I have had issus with other brands. MG. MDC hit the nail on the head as far as the reason why I use resin as opposed to POP. When I started I did not even have internet access and did not have the benefit of an awesome site like this. I can make POP molds but didn't know how to seal them. At that point i did my own experiments on different materials to use. The resin is more exspensive but I like the finish and detail I can get. You pick up a fingerprint with resin. Thanks for the kind words everyone. Zbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Plaster picks up more detail than people give it credit for. This is a plaster cast from an alginate mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGrant Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 When you get into two piece resins, what do you guys use for release between the molds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spike-A-Pike Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Zbass, There has been a good amount of discussion on Resin molds lately and currently there is nothing in the Member Submitted Tutorials on this subject. Would it be okay to add this to the Soft Plastics How To forum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zbass Posted July 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Bruce, That's fine with me. Could go in more detail if you want. PM me and we can discuss it. Zbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJS Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 (edited) Zbass - Nice looking mold. I made a couple of 2-piece molds using Durham Water Puddy and 4" paddletail Bass Assassins, similar looking to yours. After a couple of mistakes, I found out that I should be pushing the paddletails 1/2 way into the first layer of wet Durhams on their sides. Then you can locate the vent hole on the seam of the mold at the very tip end of the lure. I'll see if I can attach a picture that I already downloaded to TU... if I'm lucky. So, if you get around to trying a 2-piece mold for those lures, consider laying them on their side. Edited July 3, 2008 by HJS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDC Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 I tried a 2pc with resin once and had problems. I used vaseline between the halves but it still stuck in a few places. I eventually got it apart, but busted one of the cavities. Also the resin will shrink and warp which caused the halves not to match up very well. I would probably recomend sticking with POP for 2pc molds. Another thing you can do for 2pc molds is, mix about 75 percent Bondo body filler with 25 percent resin. Use the liquid hardner that comes with the resin instead of the cream hardner that comes with the body filller. This will allow the mix to be pourable and will extend the cure time some as well as controll some of the shrinking and warping. It may be necessary to put on one coat of sealer, but still faster than POP. You can brush on the resin by it's self to seal (with hardner of coarse). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Has anyone tried molding the resin with micro spheres. I only mention it because I've got 15Kg of the stuff and got to use it somehow. With the spheress, it has a much different texture to it and it might make the difference. It might even solve the shrinkage problem, which is very significant. I haven't tried it, just asking so as not to waste time on something that has already been done. I've posted this idea before, but I did a test with micro spheres mixed in vaseline (petroleum jelly), as a release for RTV. It did improve things, but RTV is not really a big problem anyway, but it could be worth a try with the resin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zbass Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Vodkaman, What the heck is a microsphere? Zbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 (edited) Hardbaits use it to reduce the density of resin to a useable floatation level, for casting lure bodies. Sometimes called microballoons. Polyester resin has a density of 1.2, alumilite resin, 1.05. Both heavier than water (1.0). It is a very light, fine powder. I was hoping that having some kind of structure inside the resin, might reduce the shrinkage problem. My tests with a lead mold was not as successful as I hoped, as after a hundred pours, the mold surface started to powder a little. This was quite a harsh test and may not be a problem with plastics. But I have to say, my confidence in the idea has been diminished. As I don't do plastics, it is unlikely to be tested properly, so I guess the idea will have to be shelved for now. Edited July 4, 2008 by Vodkaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNBasser Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Resin molds, what about resin models? Has anyone done this? I've just about finished carving several swimbaits out of basswood and intend to use them in making two piece silicone molds. These silicone molds will be used to produce resin models (prototypes if you will) that will be provided to aluminum mold makers. As I move through this process, success or fail, I'll take photos to share with the members. I've not really thought this through so there may be some caveats of which I'm not aware. Any suggetsions or advice based on your personal experience? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 TN, you will definately need the microspheres, because of the density. Read some of Huskies stuff. He used to do a lot of foam, but went over to resin. It pours very well in RTV. I look forward to following your success in these pages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
