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EastEnder

Rods/Dipping

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Eastender,

Try doing a search for "tubes" or "dipping". That should lead you to all the info you should need.

As for me personally, I have only made very few tubes. It will boil down to preference on how many dips you do. The more you dip, the thicker the bait.

I use a 6" bolt with the threads cut off for my dipping. Just put some scent or worm oil on it and dip, dip, dip.

Hope this helps.

Zbass

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typically they are dipped 3 times to achieve the thickness,how hot your plastic is will determin how thick they will be.

Basically you will dip it until you have the desired thickness.

a #2 pencil or even a round tent stake works fine. if you have a home depot close there are lots of things that will work.

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I don't know if you can use these to dip with. I am going to go and get some rods from an old junk V8 at the junk yard. I just haven't had time to go and pull some out yet. I might have to do a little cutting and sanding but I think they will work well. Plus their is and endless supply of them. I think I will have to use Chevy one's because Ford won't get you home(LOL).:lol:

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I use aluminum rods with multiple dippings,with a cooling period, when I want a slighty thicker tube.When using #500 plastic they get thick,and a harder in the process.A quick fast dip is what I prefer.They seem to catch more fish,but tear up easy.I have used rods made of dowel covered with JB WELD.Worked great,but now I'm in the process of making Elmers,and 2 Ton epoxy covered wood dowels to use as dipping rods.I use Auminum,brass,steel,and wood covered with JB WELD.Good results with all.I like the idea of using the coated wood,because I find it easier to work with.I will let you all know how these new rods work as soon as I get to using them.

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push rods from a car would work really well and if the rod was coated in light oil you could use a airgun to blow the tube off the rod instead of pulling it. push rods are pretty smooth, good idea I never thought of that. They are also about the right dia,

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I have loads of aluminum and carbon arrow shafts, those could work if I find a diameter I like I would think.The aluminum arrow shaft being hollow would allow for quick heat disapation.They already have a threaded insert on one end too.Just cut them to length and plug up the end with some JB weld.

The RTV that M-F sells for making molds would be a dynamite product to coat a wooden dowel with.Way pricey stuff though.

These are just some ideas I'm bouncing around as I have yet to start another addicting hobby.Rod building being my first.

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I have come to the conclusion that anything round will work so its just up to your imagination and what junk you have lieing around LOL

every time I make a tube they come out perfect, lol I only mess them up when I cut the tails. so now I give them to my 7 year old she likes to cut stuff up lol.

I dont make many tubes maybe a few here and there before a tourny, I just started getting into using tubes( meaning I am going to use them alot this year) here in AZ most guys don't use them here.

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What should the temp of your plastic be? i kinda took it as a lil on the cool side? I prefer scorching(figuratively) hot plastic when i pour dark colored senkos because of the ease of pour. Of course with light colors I have to turn the heat down to insure I dont scorch the plastic.

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Like Delw said,you can use most anything and come up with a good tube.The only thing I found out that wouldn't work was uncoated wood(BUBBLES OF AIR),and pvc pipe(MELTED).I'm in the process of making rods from wood dowel coated with 2 ton epoxy.I'm going to dip six at a time horozontally,in 6 onces of plastic.Looks like a old garden rake.I never have trouble cutting my tube tails.I solved that twenty years ago.That doesn't mean I quit looking for different ways.I like the challenge of trying a new way of doing things.I usually like my plastic a bit cool,after heating it to the 350 degree range in the microwave,I set it on a warm hot plate in a small loaf pan.I even leave a wooden tounge depresser stirring stick in the dipping pan to act as a heat sink,it will blacken after a few pours,but protects the plastic from scorching.This stick was in the microwave during the heating process so it is dry.I can't even remember the last time I over heated the plastic to effect it away from clear.I worry that over heating would effect the strength of the plastic.I may be wrong.Anyone else know?

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