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bassman843

lee pot for plastic ?

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I came across a deal where I thought I was getting 2 lee plastic pots.when I got them they look just like my lee pot for lead.is there any way the manufacturere could have made a mistake and started making these look the same.or a supplier advertise the same pot to for plastic and for lead.I have gotton my other pots from lure craft and their pots are very different from each other.the lead pot is going to get too hot for plastic. I think that is why the guy got rid of them tried to melt plastic and kept burning it didn't know the difference between the pots

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here what I can tell you. The pat # is 3790747, Volts 120, 500 watts a.c. only. Then in the l;ower right hand corner on top of the base it says on a sticker:

Warning:

Before Plugging In,

Set Thermostat to

Lowest Setting to

Prervent Burning

Plastic

The new Lee's production pots IV are taller than the old ones but the markings are the same on all my pots old and new. They are all from Lure Craft. You may have a bad part also. I hope that helps in finding out.

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I use a Presto pot. Works great. The total cost was about $35. I set the thermostat at 400 and start pouring. As I fill the mold I stir the pot with a wooden paint stick. Next I am puting a motor on to stir for me.

400 - as in degrees?!:eek:

Wood is not the best stir material IMO(bubbles). I use a steel butter knife.

I'm selling my Lee's for 30 bucks on E-Bay. Too much hassle.

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Yes degrees. At least that is what the theromstat says. Or a better name is the temp control. I haven't put a thermometer in the melt yet. When I put a cover and electric motor and paddel to stir I am sure i can lower the temp. I also have a nipple on the end of the ball valve that pours a nice stream it's about 2" long. Iam going to wrap the nipple wit insulation as well as the outside of the pot. Try and prevent the heat loss. I can pour a 4 cavity 5" stick in less than 90 seconds. It actually works very well. I was thinking of putting up a viedo of pouring the 4 cavites as I stir the pot.

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I was thinking of putting up a video of pouring the 4 cavities as I stir the pot.

ED, You plastics guys are getting pretty high tech these days... :yay:

daveh has provided two videos to date and my daughter, who is just starting to think of getting into tackle making, thinks they're great. If you have the capability to produce videos, I'm sure they'd make welcomed additions to our growing collection. I'm thinking I may need to provide some information on developing "instructional/training materials" to make the process of putting a tutorial together easier for all you guys that willingly provide us with so much.:?

Just give a shout if I can provide any info. Good luck.

Edited by Spike-A-Pike
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I haven't got that far into getting a presto pot made I would like to get more molds first.I don't like to have to much plastic waiting to be poured waiting for a lure to cure.I pour different mixes for certain lures some lures I like to be soft and some I want to be a little stiffer

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Cooling is my next issue. I am waiting too long for the mold to cool I only have 2 a 5 1/4 and a 4 the the plastic is heating the mold up which is also adding time. I am going to take a granite surface plate I have and put it in an aluminum pan. About the size of the one you cook a turkey in. Then fill the pan up with ice. About half way up the plate. Away from the molten plastic on my cool down bench. With a fan blowing over the mold starting to cool it. When the mold can be placed on it's side I will put it on the garanite surface plate. When I open the mold to remove the baits I am going to place the other half on the plate. that should suck the heat out rather fast. And I will be sure to keep and water from the inside of the cavites and the molten plastic. That could be very messy. as well as painful. But you are right I need MORE MOLDS. I haven't seen an issue with the molten plastic being held at the melt temp for that long. So long as it dosen't over heat there should not be a problem.

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I usuallly pour 64oz at a time in the presto pot and I only have it on the highest setting for the initial warm up. Once I get to around 300degrees with a thermometer I turn it down to 325. Once the plastic is at 325 I start to pour. Obviously some colors are different with different glitters and amounts of salt but generally that a good start point on the presto. I have a stirring motor on mine and it works great from start to finish. The only problem I have found is that it takes a long time for a lot of plastic to heat up. When you get your first pour about halfway it is good to hav e another setup because then you start the heat up process on that one. When your done the first pour just move right over and start pouring another color that is ready. My only suggestion is if it is a small room you should install some venting system. It is well worth it and kind of cheap if you do it yourself.

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Well I'm at work and all my part numbers are filed at home. If I remember over the weekend I'll bring them in on Monday. I can start by telling you it is a small Dayton motor with a fan on the top for cooling the motor. It has a shaft that goes down with a type of gear reduction in it. I use threaded rod as a shaft and the paddle is like the angle iron channel stock that they use to mount garage door openers with. It has all the holes in it so the resistance stays down and allows the plastic to be seperated as it mixes. You have to grind down the edges so it is curved like the bottom of the presto pot. The motor has a small fan on the top which cools its windings. There is a guy here on TU that I got the first one from and he makes them great. I don't make them any different except a couple small changes. If you throw out the question I'm sure he can get you a set up. As for a cover I have a couples different ideas you could go with. the motor is basically mounted to the table you have the pot on and raised with threaded rod and the motor is affixed by al. metal brackets and centered into the pot. You could cut a piece of sheet metal and affix with hinges on the back part of the bracket and the front so you can lift and close real easy. I have a vent tube right in the back about level with the pot so there isn't any vapors going into my face but you need to cover the plastic because the small fan on the motor blows the smoke all over the place even with a vent in the area. I don't really have a good way to explain it but a piece of cardboard on the top works fine too. I guess I rambled on and hopefully it helps somehow. I will try and get the motor number for you from Grainger.

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Does anyone else heat their plastic to 400? I thought 325 was hot!

I get mine at 340 max temp...400 seems high to me. I can't imagine the salt or larger flakes suspending to well in the plastic at that temp. Let alone the flakes curling or bleeding. Interesting topic...

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