Jeep Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 Hi guys, I just started to build a three section swimbait. So I've finished cutting the body and now want to start weighing and testing it. But I'm not sure how to seal the wood. Before I never sealed the wood so I got some unpleasant surpises after finishing lures wich turned out to be much lighter than I thought. So, sealing seems to be really important. So what is best used to seal? I normally use envirotex epoxy for the topcoat. Maybe this can be mixed with alcohol so it gets sucked into the wood? Or should i just use normal varnish? Here in Holland you have something called wood sealer wich is used for waterproofing floors etc. but I can;t find it in any shop so far. Thnx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 I think the Etex thinned 50/50 with denatured alcohol should work fine. If you are making hinges with pins, you can also use the runny type of crazy glue to seal the smaller areas like drilled pin holes. You may have to redrill them, but the glue should wick all the way through the holes, and come out the other side so you know it's gotten into everything. If it doesn't come out, put some in from the other side. If you use a piece of the same wire you've made the pins from to drill the holes out, it should be a tight enough fit that water won't get in anyway. I have to use pliars to get my pins in and out, so I'm pretty sure the holes are water tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish devil Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 Tackleunderground - Search Forums You will have a lot of answers using the search feature with that question. . I soak my baits over night in wood sealer, but I am no pro at this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 @ Jeep I also dip my lureblanks into wood preserver twice prior to putting a first temporary topcoat on(so that lure won't soak water whilst testing and weighting) . Don't know , wether this really helps a bit , but I feel better doing it ! It's a stuff , that can be used outdoors for any kind of wood , with or without painting over . It keeps water out and prevents the wood from getting rotten(after its description) . In Germany you can get this stuff in any big tool ,-and garden markets and paint stores , so I'm sure , that in Holland you should find it as well in such shops . Good Luck , diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnephew Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 well I have been using a 30 min epoxy from the hobby shop for sealing the lures I have been playing around with. the stuff is used for boats.. and you can sand it and paint on it.. we will see here in a couple of weeks how it holds up.. My fishing buddy who we started this lure making adventure on is going musky fishing .. and this is what we sealed all of the lures we are making for him Will let ya know though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swede Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 I use same plastic thats used on Rapala lures & many other finnish& other European commercial &hobby lures ,works as a charm for me .You can dip ,spray &brush it on .Do a search on Propionate here in the hardbait forum .I also use lips in same material so only glue i need is the sealer ,dip lip in sealer put in place & its ready to tune,testswim in 10 minutes. I usually buy in bulk so let me know if you need some both lips & sealer Sealer comes in pelletsform that you disolve in Thinner or Acetone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 I'm still using a bag of propionate pellets I got from Swede last year and it's nice stuff. Disolve it in acetone. I don't use it as a clearcoat or in making lips but It waterproofs and reinforces wood bodies nicely. You can control the thickness of the coating by varying the number of dips you do on the bait. Acetone makes it dry very quickly, in just a few minutes. Good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomah21 Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Just curious is that similar to using the dixie cups and disolving them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokeyJ Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Just curious is that similar to using the dixie cups and disolving them? Same principle, better plastic and better results. Seals better and is more durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomah21 Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Interesting.....now how/where do I get some? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 (edited) It's a very common method amongst Scandinavian hobby luremakers ! And I know , that in Finland many utilize clear concrete lacquer to topcoat their lures , not epoxy . A Finnish friend told me about it , saying that it was quite a smelly affair dipping the lures , but the results are great , I have got some cranks made that way and they are great ! greetz , diemai Edited July 11, 2008 by diemai addition of text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Posted July 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Ah great guys, thnx for all the tips! The prop.. pellets sounds really good. I just would be really great if the wood itself is really impregnated and waterproof so that even if the topcoat gets bitten to sh.. after many pike attacks it wouldn't matter / just give it some scars. I informed at a local modelling shop and they told me that they sell 'G4'. Wich is supposed to be an epoxy used to waterproof concrete. Has anybody used this stuff? Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Jeep - never heard of G4, but suspect is what is called 'Dope' here (w/acetone thinner) - this is used to seal the paper skin on aeroplane wings etc. I used it years ago, and is O.K as a sealer, but does not have the penetration or toughness of Prop or D2T. I have forund Prop to be very forgiving as a sealer, (tried them all) very hard, easy to sand, and goes a long way - personally I use it disolved in virgin lacquer thinners, which takes longer to dry, but I think, it soaks in, and levels out a bit better - As a sealer, it does not matter much what thinner (acetone or lacquer thinners), as long as you give it time to dry (12-24 hr or more) you will have few problems. 'Swede' is the GURU on this stuff, so maybe if you want some, PM him. I used to use, dissolved 'eye glass' lenses, but this stuff is clearer and better. I am not selling it, just trying to save you the years, I and a lot of other guys have bumbled around with "secret recipes". pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Jeep - Sorry I did not read 'waterproof concrete', I have used this too. In this climate it lasts about 3-4 years on a drive way, the sun breaks it down to a dull powder, not UV stable at all, but I suppose it's engineered this way. Then again, if it will last 3-4 years, you are either not using the lure enough, or it is the wrong color.!! pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Posted July 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Guess I'll better talk to Swede then.. Thnx for all the info guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Posted July 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Just wondering: "denatured alcohol " is that something you can just buy at any drugstore? Or can I also use 'methylated spirits' or spiritus as we call that here.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokeyJ Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 I use acetone with my prop. Don't know about its availability in Europe, but finger nail salons over here sell it, plus you could order it on the internet. The other option is virgin lacquer thinner, as hazmail suggested. I don't think denatured alcohol would work (methylated spirits are the same thing as denatured alcohol-denatured alcohol is ethanol with an additive to render it toxic and undrinkable; traditionally that additive was 10% alcohol, hence the term methylated spirits), but don't quote me on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swede Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Jeep check your local paintshop for acetone& virgin laquer thinner or go to any autoshop that sells paint they have it . Even some hardwarestores have it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
