WidowMaker Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 I know that Stamina has the large stainless steel musky jitterbug lips but does anyone know where i can get them stamped from aluminum material. I have thought about hammering one out flat and tracing a pattern and cupping the blade by bending it one flat section at a time...has anyone tried doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmokeyJ Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Moore's Lures has them in aluminum, but I don't know if they have them in Musky size...they specialize in musky stuff, though, so I bet they do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 If you use a larger ball peen hammer, and a die/mold to give you the right shape, you can make the lips concave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 (edited) @ widowmaker Certainly this would work out , you can even make them in any size desired , only takes some accuracy . First flatten out the lip as you stated , you may then use a steel marker needle to trace the shape onto your aluminium sheet . If you want to alter the size , trace with a thin pencil on a piece of paper and put it in a photocopy machine to enlarge or minor:wink: . After cut out roughly and use ordinary allround glue to stick it onto the metal sheet . Work out the shape accurately , file the edges very smooth , this way you get another tracing template of different size , that you should keep ! You can't achieve the cupping just by bending by hand . As mark poulson said , it requires a ballpeen hammer and a steelplate or anvil . Take first a scrap piece to practise and see , how the sheet deforms under the beats of the hammer . For soft metal sheets like aluminium and copper(up to 2 mm thick)or SST(0,5 mm only) you won't neccessarely need a stencil ! When holding the sheet cut-out blank under a small angle onto the anvil and hit it at the right spot(about where it contacts the anvil plane) , it would bend a little with every beat , therefore you should use a ballpeenhammer of only 2 1/2 to 3 ounces . For working brass or even thicker SST sheet it could be a little heavier , but the heavier , the more it would tire out your hand ! Its not the sheer weight and energy of the hitting hammer , but the amount of hits , that makes up for an evenly curved shape of the sheet metal . When I shape thicker sheet , up to 2 mm(for spoons) , I would need a stencil , which I carve from hardwood with oval router bits and my "Dremel" , about accordingly to my spoon size(you can shape smaller ones in it too , but not vice-versa) . I'd beat the sheet cut-out blank flush into that indention with a 2 to 4 pounds plastic hammer , just to have it roughly pre-shaped , the fine curvature is again done with a ballpeenhammer on the anvil . When using a ballpeenhammer for it , you'd only cause blemishes , but no general curvy shape:( ! A bit more information about shaping sheet metal to a lure you can find in the hardbait gallery , just search for "spoons" or uploads under "D" , I posted some of my spoons there(obviously the only here on TU). I haven't yet made jitterbug lips , but 100's of spoons and spinnerblades , so , without bragging , I know quite well about luremaking out of metal sheets ! Good Luck , diemai Edited July 11, 2008 by diemai more text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clemmy Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Yup, Moore's has them in Alum. for Musky. It's even cheaper than the stainless! Clemmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
