Mags Posted January 21, 2007 Report Share Posted January 21, 2007 Take a rubber spinnerbait collar and slid it up the hook to the point where you want the lead to stop. Check the post on making shakey heads out of a do-it football mold. This is described there. This will eliminate the collar and the rubber doesn't melt. I poured a bunch of them last weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diver466 Posted January 21, 2007 Report Share Posted January 21, 2007 First put the JB weld into the mold wait till it gets a firm skin on it then put a light coat of vaseline on each side and also whatevever you are pressing into it. if you get any overlap just cut it off with a razor blade. I have poured hundreds of jigs with JB weld altered molds never a problem yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankee jigger Posted January 21, 2007 Report Share Posted January 21, 2007 Any of you guys try to get an EDM shop to do the cutting and modifying for you????? My wheels are spinning............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted January 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Ive had four seperate molds modified and this is what i learned. I am not familiar with the type of welder or technique that was used. All four molds slightly warped during the welding process. But all four appear to have warped in a consistent and acceptable manner that did not result in too much of a parting line being present on the jigheads. When holding the molds up to the light there is an extremely narrow gap visible between the faces of the closed molds. Make sure the individual fills the complete collar area of the cavity because you will want to prepour the mold to heat it. If the ball section of the cavity is not filled lead will get into the crevices and stick. Make sure the individual does not place the mold face down on belt type sander to reduce the weld bead. The face of the mold should be cover with masking tape all except for the weld bead. The weld bead is best removed by lapping it with a coarse file down even to the tape. Then remove the tape and finish reducing the weld bead down even to the face of the mold using a fine file. You will also want to consider the previously existing ball collar section of the cavity allowed more room for large sized hooks to be positioned and manipulated within the cavity. With this section removed you will be limited with the amount of room to manipulate the larger sized hook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turkeylegs1246 Posted December 31, 2017 Report Share Posted December 31, 2017 Quote I use modeling clay to fill mold areas that I don't want to alter. Then I use JB weld to fill in other areas. A lightly oiled hook or insert can be used to create channels in the JB weld. Do one side of the mold at a time and file flat after the JB weld has set. Modeling clay can be easily removed before making lead castings. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LimpNoodle Posted December 31, 2017 Report Share Posted December 31, 2017 This thread is almost 11 years old. If you want please start a new topic to discuss something please feel free to do so. Dredging up 11 year old threads rarely helps anyone one as much as things change in this hobby, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
