adrenalineben Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 I am now experimenting with clear coats and would like to know what products you find most successful. At this time I am using Wildlife Colors mainly because Smith Paints is only an hour from where I live and the service and delivery has been better than the suppliers that are in other areas of the US. I tried Life Tone poly-urethane and had some compatibility problems with the wildlife colors. What have you has success with and what is your method of application. Again thanks for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 Most everybody uses 1 of 3 clear coats. Flex coat, Devcon 2 ton expoxy, or envirotex. All 3 are brushed on and then put on a rotating wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 I've had a chance to test out the NU-LUSTRE-55 for durability, This stuff stays on a lead spoon cast into a rocky river all day! Minor chipping on the front edges. Way less than I would expect from powder paint. The chips don't spread. The water temp. was just above freezing. I'm impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divani Posted April 22, 2003 Report Share Posted April 22, 2003 I use envirotex now but I also used slow-curing devcon (30 minutes) as well with good results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muskysucker Posted April 23, 2003 Report Share Posted April 23, 2003 Big splash, did you get Nu-luster-55 from the hardware store? have you used this on wood baits? And how hard was it to use? do you just open the can mix, brush on, close can, rotate bait. If so I need to give this a try. let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted April 23, 2003 Report Share Posted April 23, 2003 NU-USTRE-55 www.swingpaints.com Yes I use it on wood, as a sealer and a top coat. It is awsome.. two part polymer. Two part mix like epoxy, brush on and rotate. I just finished doing 25- 3'' lures with just two plastic teaspons full! The finish is as attractive as a Rapala- it looks clear, like plastic. I found mine at the local hardware store, I asked for a two part bar top finish. It's the same stuff those old plastic coated picture art things are made with. I've heard that Canadian Tire has it in their on line catalog??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonefishindd Posted April 24, 2003 Report Share Posted April 24, 2003 devcon 2ton works good for me.Reasons: cheap,available, durable finish and setup time is reasonable.Example: 6 3" shad baits,coated with less than a 1/2 tube,cost about .15 cent each,dryed overnight,hooks onthe next morning,fished in the afternoon.how can you beat it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Mitchell Posted April 25, 2003 Report Share Posted April 25, 2003 Just purchased some Famowood Glaze Coat High Build Epoxy Coating from Home Depot. It should correspond to the Nu-luster 55 Big Splash said he was using. It is used on Table tops, clocks, etc. It is a two part mix and brush on. Directions did say 6 hours to dry. Will try some this weekend and report back as to the results. I think this is the stuff that you see on table tops like at "Hooters" so they tell me! Charlie M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted April 25, 2003 Report Share Posted April 25, 2003 Hey Charlie, Now I know where to find you at lunch time. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookman Posted April 25, 2003 Report Share Posted April 25, 2003 Right now I am experimenting with Minwax, clear fast drying polyurethane. It seems to be working well Dries in 24 hours. You can redip after 4 hours. Recomend dipping 3 to 4 times. I am using this on a couple muskie lures. I wilkl let you know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Mitchell Posted April 26, 2003 Report Share Posted April 26, 2003 Now Skeeter, I think they call it "Happy Hour" Could not wait to try the Famowood Glaze Coat so I did it last night before I went to bed (2AM). This morning at about 11:00AM it was dry to touch and handle without any problems and was not stickey. It said that it might take another 36 hours to cure. It did look clear and deep. I did not put it on a drying wheel but one would need to do so. Got a small amount of run to the tail hook. (tried it on an old lure) and did not bother to take off the tail hook. The Glaze looked like it might work and it really went on good with a hand brush. Skeeter, the gentlemen that I told you about that uses auto clear coat was at a tournament to day and had some of his lures. He just paints Plastic bodies from Jan's. Anyway he had a nice looking finish on the lures and said that he has found out that he could spray it a little heavier and just do it once. Cleans air brush with cleaner and has not been a problem. The finish looked and felt hard but that was on plastic. He uses Createx paint also. As I told you he uses dupont two part clear coat. Spookeman, as I was looking for the Glaze I saw the minwax polyurethane, and the one that struck my eye was the Gloss Floor fast drying material. That looked like it was hard as nails and would take a lot of abuse. The only thing was, I only saw it in a gal. can. Too much to buy just to try. Charlie M, AKA boyhowdy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted April 26, 2003 Report Share Posted April 26, 2003 The Famowood is the similiar product to NU-LUSTRE-55. I would stay away from polyurathane, I've been told it will yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookman Posted April 27, 2003 Report Share Posted April 27, 2003 Before I bought the minwax everyone was telling me it was the best. Now I have another can of poly to get rid of. I don't have a rotater can you get a decent job by just hanging the lure up with the new luster 55 or the devcon? finished these two today with minwax. Dipped them 4 times so they will probably be yellowed in a year or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Splash Posted April 27, 2003 Report Share Posted April 27, 2003 I did some reasonable NU-LUSTRE-55 jobs by hanging, turning the lure end for end every 5- 10 min. Then I built a rotating rack out of a cardboard box, a rotisary motor, a pool noodle, and an arrow shaft (doweling). I still get a few runs now and then (nothing is perfect), but I can do a lot more at one time, and I dont get the drips running off. Be sure to keep us posted on how the minwax holds up over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBAYB Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Try a product called Top Secret TS100 Cear. It's a one part epoxy that has a two year shelf life. This stuff used to be top secret. They used it on tanks, aircraft carriers and aircraft radomes. Since declassification, the company that makes it changed their name to Top Secret. Being a one part epoxy, it is oxygen activated. I dip all my lures in it then just put the lid back on the jar. It runs about $29.95/qt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 http://www.topsecretcoatings.com/ts-100_1-part_epoxy_clear_4849361.htm There is a link too what your talking about..It also comes in colored versions..you could use it in white as a base coat..Have you tried this stuff?..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP MYERS Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 OBAYB, do you ever get wrinkles or drying problems with the TS100?.. Ive been using it for about 5 months,still on the 1st quart,stuff goes a long ways.. But I have drying problems, doesnt harden if I dip lures direct without thinning..I bought their thinner for it, mix 50-50 & it drys fine like that..But then its really thin like milk viscosity..I'd like to dip my lures at the original "fresh out of the can" viscosity to achieve a thicker coat..Is there a secret to Top Secret?.I rotate constant for 2 hrs then hang at room temp, mid 70's..Thanks in advance for any input..John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mont_lunker_hunter Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/fishing-lure-paint/023025000411.aspx Try this, it works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBAYB Posted March 17, 2007 Report Share Posted March 17, 2007 OhioLureMaker-John- I'm doing everything almost the same as you are, John, except you might try drying your lures in a low humidity area. I have a dehumidifier in the house. I made a hanger for 25 lures and bring them in the house for 48 hours. The Top Secret seems to like this. No runs or drips now. Al texastopwaterlures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cranky Fish Posted March 17, 2007 Report Share Posted March 17, 2007 Spookman I've been using the Minwax for almost two years now and have had no problems with yellowing. I do however understand where they are coming from. If you do not get a good seal on the can after each use the urethane will thickin. You're talking about one thick mirror wet finish, but it will yellow. If the urethane thickins discard and get a fresh can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
