Clay Models

[robalo01]

I see here that a lot of you guys make wood models and then RTV molds from them. Does anybody make clay models and resin molds? i've been doing this off and on for the past few yers with some good results and would like to hear about any techniques or tips you have.

I'll try to get some pictures up of my work to see wht yu think.

[Vodkaman]

Robalo01, have you done any 2 piece resin molds?

If so, what release agent do you use?

Having trouble splitting the two halves. Kind of a hijack, but all relevant. This could turn into a good thread.

[Kajan]

Never did use clay to make master lures.

[nova]

I've tried clay, wood and wax.

The clay is alright. You can adjust your shapes easily by adding or taking away clay. The drawback to it is that once you make your master mold that's pretty much it for the clay master.

I like the wood even though it takes a little more time to do than the clay; when you're done making the mold you still have a master.

The wax I didn't like at all; I know some guys like it, but I didn't.

Hope this helps.

www.novalures.com

[Kajan]

Yea, Like Nova said, I use mostly wood, but what is very good but tee bit harder to use is HDPE, no finish is needed, finishes off slick. But might not be for most since I notice most people here glue the master down. HDPE won't adhere to anything if using for a one pc mold. I screw my masters down from underneath a galv. or ss pan I make to size.

[robalo01]

I make my master from scultor's clay on a peice of thick glass, then build a dam around the masterwith more clay and pour the resin around it. Then you have to clean out the mold with a solvent. I use turpentine. This "test" mold then is used to make masters for a production mold. I make my own plastic instruments out of anything I can find. I was curious if anybody was doing anything like this.

The good thing about using glass is that you can see the "footprint" the model makes and determine how well it will release from the mold once you pour a bait.

The clay allows you to make resin molds that "hug" the bait and produce things that are rounder than if you used a wood model.

I havent made any two-part resin molds. For two-parts, I use a wood model and auto body filler. (bondo).

[KAOS Tackle]

I do use sculptors clay and have not tried wood yet but am looking forward to it. The sculptors clay I use is very nice to work with. I make the bait as close as I can get it to what I want then bake it to harden. when it is hardened I do my details with the dremel and such. I hit my clay masters with and acrylic coat or two two ensure smoothness and then use OOMOO 30 for my mold. I have never had a problem getting the master out completely intact for future molds. Just the way I learned and it works pretty well for me. I have been tinkering with my new wood lathe however and am interested in using wood.

Edited August 18, 2008 by sapper.johnson
Spelling

[Zbass]

robalo01,

I use resin for my molds and also use wax as my masters. I tried the clay but it left a little to be desired IMO. I like the wax for many reasons, but the main reason is that when I get it carved to what I want, It is easy to glue down and when the resin cures, it melts the wax. That leaves a glass smooth finish in the mold. All I do is reheat some used plastic and pour one batch through to remove any of the left over wax. I like the resin for the mods because I can pour a mold and 2 hrs later be pouring baits in it.

Zbass

[robalo01]

What kind of max do you use?

[Zbass]

Just regular cnadle wax from the hobby store. They sell it in small blocks or larger blocks. Like I said, you won't have the model left after you pour the resin. It will melt. I think that this aids in a glassy finish in the mold.

Zbass

[oleo40]

For those who make wood Masters, what do you seal them with. I made three and sealed with 50/50 elmer's glue all and the DWP wont let go. Have to start all over. What else might I try. Verryyyy new to this. Ole

[Smallie]

To have the best luck separating the master from the mold you need some flex somewhere. If the master is solid, RTV will give the best results. If the master is flexible like you are copying a plastic bait, then the mold can be stiff.

Note that I said to have the best luck. I have made simple baits like a sluggo style bait where the master was hard and I pressed it down into the DWP. I sealed these with Devcon.

[oleo40]

Thanks Smallie. When you seal wit Devcon do you use it straight or cut it with something? Ole

[nova]

I make my molds from POP mostly. I seal my masters with rattle can paint, several coats with steel wool between coats 1 and 2. Make sure that you use gloss paint, this will give a better detail transfer.

Never had a problem getting the master out of the mold; even in a two-piece mold.

When I make an open mold with a complicated shape, I will make it in two pieces. This way you can get the wooden master out quite easily. Then if you still only want a one piece mold all you do is epoxy it back together.

www.novalures.com

[Smallie]

Thanks Smallie. When you seal wit Devcon do you use it straight or cut it with something? Ole

I cut it with rubbing alcohol. I buy plastic 'handled' paint brushes at Walmart and dip the handle in the rubbing alcohol. Then I hold it over the Devcon and let a few drops fall off. I do that several times and them paint the Devcon onto the master.