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Jio

Building plans for 10" double blade spinners?

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I didn't found any building plans for these ca. 10" long and 2-4 oz. spinners, like Cowgirls, etc.

I'm looking all kind of help for these, because this size of spinners are not available here Finland.

This is only ca. 4" and 1,5 oz.:

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Jio,

There is no hard and fast design for making a musky lure; it is a matter of preferences bases on how you plan to fish it. I suggest you look through the Stamina on line site in the Supplier Directory. They have most of the key components listed.

Take a look at the lures your interested in making and sort out the parts from the photos in their on line catalog. Good luck and tight lines.

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Jio,

Take a look at the lures your interested in making and sort out the parts from the photos in their on line catalog.

-Well, problem is that we don't have that size os spinners here in Finland. I've checked plenty of photos of these lures but all those are so/too furry and I can't see how they are build those lures "inside".

I've see one photo silicon skirt spinner where was lead weights(??) inside the skirt and I wonder is there one wire or more?

So, just looking pic's is not enough to me!

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@ Jio

There are weighted wire coils(with round or triangular cast on weights) available .

These are supposed to tie bucktail hair on , but maybe , you could also rig shirts onto them :?.

Another possibility to rig skirts onto a wire shaft is pushing the skirt over a pop rivet head of approbiate size , rig the thicker end of rivet towards tail hook , so the skirt can't be stripped down by enthusiastic fish .

There are also special round brass bodies available to put skirts on , but I guess , those might be too small for the giant lures , that you are planning on ?

Check Welcome to Moore's Lures , download the PDF catalog , you'll find those parts in there .

Don't think , that there are two wireshafts build into those lures , only thing is , that the closure loops tag end might be bent backward , potruding through one or more of the lower body parts , but this really depends on each single design .

good luck , Dieter

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Thanks Dieter,

I've been wondering is the meaning of those (lead) weights to make the spinner sink horizontal way if the reeling ends or are those there only for better casting possibility?

Other what I don't know yet is how I put a treble in the middle of the lure; do I use one wire or do I cut it and put other wire somehow there?

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@ Jio

To me the beads size is not that important , this counts at least for spacer beads rigged somewhere on the wireshaft , its up to personal taste , how the baits look .

But what is important , is the blade size just straight under the blade(s) or clevise(s) , the smaller these are , the less friction would occur and the easier the blades spin .

On my in-lines I always put one or two beads 2mm to 3mm directly under the clevise , then one of approx. 5mm to 6mm , this one also acts as a spacer to keep blade standing away from the spinnerbody a bit(works best or even exclusively only with "French Blades") .

But in your case I'd suggest a minimum of three beads under the clevise , maybe 2-3/4/6mm front to rear , if your bodies are even thicker , you may rig a fourth one 8mm for smooth transition , that should do !

Make sure , that these are of metal to withstand wear , spacer beads on the shaft may also be of plastic and/or facetted to add color attraction to the lure .

Good luck , Dieter

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I like to Keep the front hook as close to the blades as possible without hanging up Jio that way when they hit the blades they have hook, remember the blades fan out substantially on retrieve, also mixing painted and unpainted will result in the blades mirroring each other although it looks nice on the table it sucks in the water.

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