slingToad Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 Great site. I've been making several swimbait prototypes and have finally arrived at a body style that moves well. I hope to use the baits for Rockfish here in the Chesapeake bay. I have been making mine about 8-10 inches long and 3/4 inch wide. The 2/1/1/1 length/segment ratio seems to work well. Question: For large baits like these, what thicknesses are you making your baits? I plan to make a few about 1" thick soon. Thanks, slingToad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snax Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 I've made them 1" and 3/4" and both swim very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 WOW!!! u guys like em thick! I target blackies here in california so mine are a bit thinner. For my bigger baits 10 inches and above 3/4 is the bggest i have gone. I generally stay between 1/2 and 3/4 though. I have found size isnt really an issue its all about the weighting and sectioning of the bait. So use the size for the profile you are trying to acheive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slingToad Posted September 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 I was thinking a fatter wood stock would give me more room to cram in eye hooks and weight. Of course if I use smaller amounts of wood (thinner) I should need proportionately less amounts of weight etc. I started out going for the "real" fish look, with curved profile for a real fish look head on, but I am so impressed with the action of the basic "flat" wood sections, I may stick with that for now and spend more time learning to seal/foil/coat lures for realism. Thanks for the replies, slingToad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snax Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 I was thinking a fatter wood stock would give me more room to cram in eye hooks and weight. Of course if I use smaller amounts of wood (thinner) I should need proportionately less amounts of weight etc.I started out going for the "real" fish look, with curved profile for a real fish look head on, but I am so impressed with the action of the basic "flat" wood sections, I may stick with that for now and spend more time learning to seal/foil/coat lures for realism. Thanks for the replies, slingToad I agree on the actions of the flat profile baits being great! I was going to make all my swimbaits have the tapering body too but found that it made it trickier to use my router to do some of the steps I do. When I have bodies molded for me I'll make them exactly like the real thing at that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 AGREED! Flat sidded baits have more action because they catch the vorticies in the water much better. I Use these flat sides for many of my baits that are always moving and usually very slowly. But for realism and deadsticking you have to go with the V shapped joints. You can still get good action and it is much more realistic just much harder to make. I have a 7 inch 5 flat cut jointed bait that i am testing right now and it is by far the most lively bait i have ever made. So all i can say is experiment and find what works for you! And show some more pics!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...