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Mat Finish Hard bait

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You can lightly sand epoxy with 400 grit or finer paper to get a matte finish but when wet the surface reverts to partially gloss as the scratches are filled with water. Probably the most effective matte is the soft plastic coating you see on some baits. But it's not especially durable and it has a milky color that requires especially bright finish underneath to show through to the bait's surface.

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Get yourself a sealable round container like a coffee can. Glue a peice of wood block to the outside bottom. Put a screw right in the center of the wood but dont sink it all the way. It needs to be strong enough to chuck in a variable speed drill. Chuck it. Cut sheet of soft craft foam and line the circumference of the can inside. Put your lure, about a 1/4 cup of water, and 5 or 6 tablespoons of playground sand in the can. run it at about 15 or 20 rpm for 3 or 4 minutes. (it needs to be run sideways) It is called tumbleing and is common practice in machine shops....along with liquid honing and bead blasting.

Edited by Sonny.Barile
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Is there a difference between a matt and a shiny finish, viewed submerged?

I suspect not, but I have not made the comparison. Maybe someone could do the comparison and report back.

Dave

I think Vodkaman's right. When you put a lure in the water, the finish is going to look clear, even if you've scuffed it up with steel wool.

Test a sample by scuffing it, and then wetting it with spit.

The ability of water to fill in the scuff marks and any irregularities or flaws is a lifesaver for lures with bad topcoats.

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