cavu Posted December 30, 2003 Report Share Posted December 30, 2003 I just got off the phone with the tech guy (Bob) from Component Systems, Inc reguarding problems I have been having with my fluid bed. From an earlier post I mentioned I was having problerms, as were other on this forum, with the powder paint not fluidizing properly. I currently am using a 3" fluid bed distributed by CSI. It is air fed, no viberator. The problem is that the paint will not "roll" as it should. I get "valcanos" no matter what air setting I am using. I tried blowing out the bottom of the canister (microscreen), filling up the canister with a spoon while the air was on (not a regular option for me) and filling up the canister and then turning on the air. I have suceeded in getting the paint to act properly only once. Here is what I found out from Bob at CSI: 1. Humidity plays an important part in the fluidization of the powder. As you guessed, the humidity present will cause the paint to stick together (on a molecular or granular level I guess). This can cause the valcano effect. 2. All the colors are not created equal. Regular White powder paint is the heaviest and Pearl White is the lightest. Each color will react differently and require a different air setting. 3. Blowing out the microscreen is no help and should not be necessary according to CSI. I tested the fluid bed to see if too much air was leaking between the fluid bed main body and the canister (used a liquid soap solution) only to find very few leaks (bubbles). I have constructed a ring with a gasket to use on the outside of the canister if leakage was found to be a problem. I think the only purpose the rig will serve is as a stop for the canister so it will not drop too deeply into the fluid bed body and become hard to remove (has happened to me). am currently working on the "humidity" thing, but here in Georgia I might be fighting a losing battle. Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted December 31, 2003 Report Share Posted December 31, 2003 About the only option you have is to buy a de-humidifier. Once you get one plugged in and running you will be surprised how much moisture it will pull out of the air. Ive had one pull as much as a gallon of water in two days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markell Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 I experienced the humidity problem today. I also live in Georgia but have not had a problem untill today. The paint would not gloss. It would bubble. I tried several temperatures but nothing seemed to help. Is this bubbling what you are referring to as the volcano effect? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 On mine, the volcanos is what the powder paint looks like in the fluid bed. I have little bubbles in the paint finish of mine which are not bubbles but pin holes. I also have a single dip powder paint cup, and I used black yesterday and was running the air where the fluid was moving very fast. I dipped some and they had the pin holes, I raised my temp to 425 and tried some more, they were almost perfect. When I dipped, I just dipped and pulled out in one motion, no side to side swishing. Before on my fluid bed I was running my air as low as possible and not getting good results. I thought before the air was cooling my parts too quickly, taking away some of the heat, thus not getting good coverage. So now I am going to try my fluid bed again with higher temp and more air pressure. I use a regular cook stove oven. I have 2 oven thermoters, one in the top of the oven and 1 in the bottom of the oven. It is usually 25 degrees hotter in the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topher Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 I believe you are right one this. I have had the same problem what I do is still heat it up to 375, but I dip, wait for the jigs to look wet, dip again, throw them in the oven, dip another rack 2 times, throw that in oven, take the first one out, dip that once, and then the second rack once. this is all done in about 1 minute. This helps to ensure that you have an even coat. It makes a big difference what color you are using, the glow colors don't coat as evenly, so you have to be hotter with a couple of dips, vs normal colors. Glow pink is the worst, I think. I use 6 of the CSI clamping racks on rotation. This way works great for 1/8 oz. jigs and bigger. I then spray my 2 tone on the whole racks while in the oven. I can do 100 jigs an hour by myself, including painting the eyes, and busting eyes, general clean up. What I do is powder them and cure them while they are in the racks, they let them cool, throw in another set, then grab the cool racks and use a soldering iron to puncture the eyes. Then I powder the next set, put back to cure. Next I use laquer applicator bottles to paint the 2 tone eyes, and then let dry.... This works good when you are set up to do it, if you have an extra set of hands its great, if not, you will about want to pull the hair out of your head by the end of the day. I have had to get about 1000 jigs done per day for the last 3 days, and my helper hasn't been around, so ... sometimes. anyways, I hope that my venting helps you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
