Drilling thru-wire

[bbduc]

How are people drilling baits through with accuracy on larger baits?

I've been splitting the baits I build then routing a slot for the wire. This works great but adds a few steps. I'm not looking to set a land speed record but if I didn't have to split the bait and then do a glue up I'd rather not. Most of what I build is in the range of 6" to 9" long. I build jigs and level/square everything up but inevitably the bit wonders off. On smaller baits It

[diemai]

@ bbduc

I haven't made as long baits as you thru-wired yet , but some smaller topwaters with a central wire shaft running through them , some of these are amongst my fist uploads in the gallery in here .

Since I have never found any overlength drill bits in over here , I pre-drill with an ordinary bit 1,5mm dia. , as deep as possible and make the hole deeper with a rigid 1,5mm wire shank , on which I have ground a cutting edge onto one end .

I'd fix my lureblank absolutely vertically in the vise of my drillpress(requires perfect eyeballing) , and start drilling with the bit in the previously accurately marked center , with an awl I have already made an indention for the bit to find grip precisely .

After I'd chuck the wire shank and insert its point into the pre-drilled hole , after I switch on drill(don't have it turning without being inserted , it may otherwise snap off and cause injuries).

At higher speed and lower feed(to prevent too much wandering) I'd drill down to about 3/4 of body length , maybe even 4/5 !

After I repeat procedure from the other side of lureblank , if having worked with most accuracy , the holes would meet somewhere inside the lurebody .

You could extend holes a bit by using another wire shank with a flattened point end , constantly pushing the body by hand up and down the rotating shank , from either side(but never let it exit on the other side , it might make TWO holes) .

Remember not to pull out that wire shank WITHOUT switching off drill before !!!!!!!!!

Onto the wire shank to be assembled into the lure , I would grind a sharp point on one end , this makes it a lot easier to have it inserted into the entire pass of the center hole .

I did these operations on softer woods without a pronounced grain like abachewood(better against wandering) , I guess , that with harder woods it would be more difficult to do with wire shanks , but not , when utilizing real overlength bits !

To determine , wether your holes have met inside the body , just blow into one side of it , if wood dust comes out , you've made it !

If not , you must still fool around drilling , maybe getting a bit larger in diameter as planned , the hole would be filled up with glue on final assembly , anyway ! And try getting still more accurate next time !

My longest body was about 5 1/2" , smaller than your intentions , but this is the only way , that I can think of !

Another way on longer bodies is to drill the hole only 1/2 to 3/4 through from only one side , off course , the remaining portion can be furnished with a belly slot , this way a wire shank with an already bent "U"-shaped belly eye on it could be inserted from that side , the belly slot would accomodate the belly eye , it would be impossible to slide the shank further down !

I'd cut that slot with "Dremel" cutting discs and the smallest router bits .

Made such a construction before on some "Globe" lures .

Hope , that my explanations are at least a bit understandable to you !

Greetz , diemai

[hazmail]

bbduc- This is one way, http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/11994-thru-wire-technique.html#post82664

SEE POST#9

You need a long SHARP bit, and minimal cross grain, as the drill may still try to follow it . pete

[bbduc]

Thanks Hazmail & Diemai for the replies. I'll give the nail technique a go.

If that doesn't work I'll stick with splitting the baits down the middle, it's clean and simple just a little more work. Hazmail, your tutorial on the thru-wire is what I have been using as a base to work from and more than likely will continue to do so.

Diemai, I have to say I love your paint jobs. I can always tell your baits when I see them.

I started building baits about 30 years ago as a kid, just me and my pocket knife and some Testers model airplane paint. Now, while I still feel like a kid, it's me and a boat load of tools, paint booth, drying wheels, compressor, airbrushes and the list goes on. I think I caught more fish on those crudely made baits than what I craft now. I haven't been building lures all that time, I'm really just getting back into it.

[hazmail]

"I started building baits about 30 years ago as a kid, just me and my pocket knife and some Testers model airplane paint. Now, while I still feel like a kid, it's me and a boat load of tools, paint booth, drying wheels, compressor, airbrushes and the list goes on. I think I caught more fish on those crudely made baits than what I craft now. I haven't been building lures all that time, I'm really just getting back into it."

Bob, I know exactly how you feel, hang in there mate. pete

[kahawai]

hi, i've never been able to trust hook hangers. call me paranoid. for wood lures, i've had some success cutting a slot along the base of the lure, inserting the wire then filling/sanding it down.

another method is to carve the lure from two pieces of wood spot glued together. this makes splitting it simple.

tight lines!

big_kahawai - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

[Steel Pulse]

I thru drill from both sides in the lathe. Put the drill in the headstock in a collet or drill chuck I then push the bait into the drill with the tailstock with a center in it. Get about a 98% accuracy and very quick. Just remember to clear the chips often. I am talking about roundish baits not hand carved, which i don't do very often.

Edited November 15, 2008 by Steel Pulse

[Vodkaman]

When I used balsa, I cut a slot along the back of the body. This left room for drilling ballast and kept the construction simple.Also, the front and rear eye loops could be formed before introducing the body.

I fixed the hanger in position with super glue (crazy glue), then epoxy for a good connection. Filler to tidy up.

The slot has to be cut deep enough that the hanger will not just peal out under load. A very shallow slot is just asking for problems.

Dave

[MTfishingrods]

If you glue your 2 pieces together with a piece of construction paper sandwiched between them.and then let them dry. You can cut your bait, turn it on a lathe or do what ever to it, then when you want it in 2 pieces again. A sharp rap with a good sharp wood chisel at the joint in one or 2 places and it comes right apart. Just make sure you have the entire surface covered with glue for a good safe bond if turning on a lathe.