northsea Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Hi there, wondering if you could suggest a glue to stick my bait to the pan before pouring pop over it please? I know a few use superglue but would prefer to use something that will not damage the original. Any ideas please? Also I was wondering if Bathroom sealant (The stuff you use for aroung the bath tub etc) would work to seal around the edges of the bait? ( Again before POP is poured over it) I tried to use the kids moulding dough but it was too soft and kinda melted after the POP had cured. Any help on the matter would be great! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zbass Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 What is your master made out of? That would make a difference in what you can use. Zbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted November 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Good question. It's a shop bought twin tail soft plastic lure but couldn't tell you the exact materials used. Also interested on whether silicon sealant would seal around the edges (of the body where it curves in) after it is glued to the pan. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Are you making a POP mold? I've used only double-sided permanent Scotch tape to stick my plastic masters down. It works best for flat-sided baits but also works for round ones. Cover the entire area where the master will be with the tape. Wash your plastic masters with dish soap to remove any oils, dry, and then firmly stick them down on the tape. Once in a while I'll have one of the masters float up on one end but it works 99% of the time. It will not ruin the master but it will have sticky residue on it. Hopefully when you get one good cavity you really don't need the master any more. Excuse my rambling on but if I have only one master I sometimes make the mold the old-fashioned push it down in the POP way. If your POP is thin enough this will work fine. You must stand over it and keep pushing the master down until it stops floating. That way you will have a master with a little flat side that can be more reliably stuck down on tape to make production molds. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted November 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Thanks for the tip there Longhorn! I'll have a go at that. I may even try double sided carpet tape so that it will be much wider. Have you tried this yourself? I'm guessing the way you pour the plaster over the master affects whether the thing will stay on of not. I found a couple of times because I was pouring on just one side the pressure pushed the master over wrecking the adhesion. Any info on methods of sealing around the curves before pouring? Many thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 never tried carpet tape...may be better. don't quite understand what you mean by sealing around the curves. after I tape the master down I don't do anything else before pouring the POP over. I would use a spoon to place the POP around the master equally before pouring in the rest. If the master is very tall with small top surface this method may not work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted November 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Just had a go at sticking my master to the pan with carpet tape and it seems to hold very,very well! I can grip the lure and jiggle the container about without it coming apart. Nice tip longhorn. One thing I wonder about this method is if the plaster comes away leaving a smooth surface after the master has been seperated? I mean the tape that was exposed, not touching the master? The master I am using is not completely flat at the body end. So when I pour plaster over it plaster gets in the curves and makes things difficult when it comes to seperation after the plaster has cured. I usually end up cutting it out making a mess of the mold. I may simply cut off the belly section so the it will have a completely flat surface. Thanks again for the advice!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longhorn Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 don't know about carpet tape but the Scotch tape doesn't stick to the mold and leaves a very smooth surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted November 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Great, I'll give it a go and see what happens. If this tape I'm using does leave a strange surface on the mold I could always try coating the exposed tape with powder or something. Just had a go at levelling out my master lure. i.e cutting away the curved belly but very tricky to do with a sharp blade. Maybe I could melt it level somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscivorous Pike Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 (edited) Hi there, wondering if you could suggest a glue to stick my bait to the pan before pouring pop over it please? I know a few use superglue but would prefer to use something that will not damage the original. Any ideas please?Also I was wondering if Bathroom sealant (The stuff you use for aroung the bath tub etc) would work to seal around the edges of the bait? ( Again before POP is poured over it) I tried to use the kids moulding dough but it was too soft and kinda melted after the POP had cured. Any help on the matter would be great! Thanks. In this thread attaching soft plastics to bottom of pan for mold making? in post #4 http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/107529-post4.html I use Locktite vinyl and plastic glue did well. I saved my valuable one of a kind original soft plastic bait. I also used it to stick down some flashlight switch covers and make two piece molds of them in DWP, a two piece mold to use silicone to make translucent covers. It worked for that great too. Edited November 20, 2008 by Piscivorous Pike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green_Fingers Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 Hi Northsea, If your problem is cos the lure is round not flat another was to make your mold is to pour the plaster into the container first, then push your lure into the plaster, just like if you were making a 2 peice mold, except you push it farther into the plastic than just half way. I have made some good pop molds this way too. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubs Chops Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 Hi Northsea,If your problem is cos the lure is round not flat another was to make your mold is to pour the plaster into the container first, then push your lure into the plaster, just like if you were making a 2 peice mold, except you push it farther into the plastic than just half way. I have made some good pop molds this way too. Simon can you use the push it down method for rtv? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green_Fingers Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 Hi Dubs Chops, I have never used RTV to make molds with and am not exactly sure of its consistency and curing time, or how it reacts during curing, but I guess you probably could if the prototypye lure will stay where you placed it as it does in POP. Maybe try a making a mini mold this way and see if it works, then let us know! Cheers, Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
