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Jig Man

A couple of more micro wave problems

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Today:

1. I was trying some clear with only flake (no dye). The first batch was perfect. I reheated the mix by 30 sec. intervals using a wooden paint stirrer. I left it in the plastisol. I got a scorch. I couldn't tell if it was the plastic or the wood that was actually causing the problem.

2. I also tried to melt down some old baits and add hardner. One batch I melted the plastic and added the hardner. The hardner made a ball in the middle of the cup and when in 30 second intervals I melted it out I had scorched spots. I tried putting hardner in a cup and then adding unmelted plastic. As I melted it it became lumpy and scorched worse then the other way.

Is there a way to add hardner to old plastics?

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its best if you put the stuff you need to remelt into all ready cooked plastic, or cut it into shreds and slowly heat up. leaving alot longer than 30 seconds in between heats. this will give the hard plastic time to heat evenly.

on the next one , hardern wont work in most cases of commercially produced baits due to they use a different type of plastic AND there are many additives that are also used (scents formulas etc etc.)

Its best you dont remelt and reuse commercially produced baits

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When I remelt plastics, I actually take a fork (bent about 90 degrees) and mash the chunks to help break the mean ones down. Yeah, you can get bubbles this way, but trying to use heat alone to get an even melt is dancing on the edge of a scorch.

Mister Twister and Culprit chunks are the worst, but any large chunks will be a pain. Think "butcher knife & board"...set the pile down and dice, dice, dice, and re-dice the plastics. Y'know, you rock the knife back and forth over the bits until they're tiny. Bit of oil/heat stabilizer seems to help get an even melt without a scorch.

I'm coming around to Delw's philosophy, it' best to remelt one's own pours and keep it relatively homogenous. Melting temp for the hard stuff seems to kill the softer plastics way early in the game.

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