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finfever

Plaster/pop mold ??????????

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If you have used plaster than you will love the durhams,i get it from fleet farm in the larger can,around 6.00 a can,I have molds that are over 5 years old and are used often,in my experience its way stronger that reg plaster,less prone to chipping and dusting,you,ll love it.Its kind of a strange name water putty ,When I first heard it I pictured some kind of puty but rest assured its a nice hard yellow plaster.

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What prochallenger said, both times. I've started with PoP then switched to Durhams just to see what it had to offer. I've never looked back. PoP is still suitable for 1-piece molds where the quick set-up time for PoP is no problem. For me, PoP sets up too fast when making 2-piece molds... after all, it takes a fair bit of time to set 3-4 masters in the first layer of Durhams before it get too hard. Durhams works great and has a 4X longer set-up time, especially if you add a teaspoon of vinigar which slows setting even longer. Durhams is stronger too. As suggested on this board, I also add a tablespoon of Elmers glue to the Durhams while mixing which seems to make it even strong. The edges of PoP 2-piece molds where always flaking off and eventually made a raggity mold line. Durhams resists chipping way better.

Every Mom&Pop hardware store here in MD carries Durhams Water Putty. Judging from it retro label, I'm guessing Durhams has been around for generations.

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Don't know what i'm doing wrong but can't seem to get a solid piece out of pan. Plaster breaks everytime :pissed::pissed:. What am i doing wrong???

I'm using a metal pan with double sided tape to hold bait down so what is trick to getting the mold out without breaking it??

Someone please give me an idea cause i'm ready to give up..

I'm also gonna try that other stuff mentioned as sonn as i find where to buy it.

Thanks.

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Your plaster may not be mixed properly,to thin or It may be a problem with your pan,When I made single cavety molds I used either a silicone pan or a non stick cake pan,never had a problem,make sure your pan is not locking the plaster in,a ridge or seam in the pan could do this,I liked the rounded corner pans myself,also dont fill the pan all the way to the top,leave at least 1/2 so when you demold you can turn the pan and gently tap the plaster out,hope this helps,get the durhams water putty

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I'm assuming you're making a 1-piece mold since you are gluing the masters to the bottom.

- Just like when baking bread in a pan, grease the bottom and sides of the pan with, in this case, Vasoline. Sides of the pan must be at least a little flaired so the plaster is not locked to the pan by the sides.

- WAIT! for the plaster to dry thoroughly. Freshly hardened plaster is STILL very easy to break. Plaster gets harder and harder as it cures. Place pan with fresh poured plaster is a very warm spot for at least 24 hours, longer the better. I place mine under my woodstove until the next day. I know, when pouring your first molds, waiting 24+ hours is very difficult... but wait none-the-less.

- If, after removing the hardened plaster from the pan, the masters are still in place, then wait several hours more for the plaster to get even harder before removing the masters. If you try to take out the masters too soon the the delicate edges of the lure cavities might flake and screw up the quality of the mold.

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I have always used flexible plastic and I don't use pans...I cut the bottom out of the plastic container and stick the baits to a tray and then tape down the bottomless container. I do this because it's much easier to apply the tape and stick down the masters on an open tray than down in a pan. I wouldn't suggest metal even if you don't cut the bottom out. Hope this helps.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/attachments/soft-plastics/2371d1196866431-easy-pop-production-mold-cimg0511.jpg

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