Mountain Man 26 Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 For over a year now I have sealed my POP molds with 50/50 -Elmers/H2O. It has worked fine, but 2 days ago I made a mold for a 3 inch worm. I did not have any Glue All, but had just finished a 5 inch swimbait and had a little Dev Con 2 Ton left in a dispenser, so I put on a VERY VERY thin coat and rotated the mold for 20 min. It has the best seal that I have ever had on a POP mold. Shines like Alum. I am sure many knew this, but if you did not...there it is. Rangers Lead the Way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 Very intersted in this! Do you reckon normal epoxy would do the same? Did you use the normal recommended mix? Also how did you rotate the mold for 20 mins. lol, sorry about the questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Man 26 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 I don't know about other epox. Mix as directed and rotated for 20 min to prevent sagging. I plan to attach a piece of self adhesive velcro to the back of future molds and stick them to my hardbait turner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 I see. Thank you. When you say rotate do you mean the whole mold is going upside down as if you were roasting a pig on a fire etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 Normal epoxy is what I have used for years. Thin it with alcohol and apply several coats. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 Hmm, only alcohol I have is for drinking. I wonder if thinners for paint would do? I did have a quick try on an old mold and the epoxy was very thick and difficult to use. p.s Do you use a new brush every time of can you clean it ok? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 I have used envirotex lite for years as well. Leaves an extremely durable finish and can be thinned as well. Just as an FYI, the high heat engine spray paint can be used but may cover some details in your mold when coating. Sometimes, you use what you have around the shop! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 It's rubbing alcohol. I use 95%. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJS Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 I've been using DevCon 30 minute epoxy on all my molds. Its the stuff sold in the double barreled syringe. And yeah, its pretty thick right from the tubes. So I mix in a little rubbing alcohol (ultra cheap stuff), just a splash, maybe 10% alcohol to epoxy. And I use super cheapie throw-away brushes to apply the epoxy. Buy them at WalMarts and craft store, like 10-15 for a buck. Ain't worth cleaning them out. Epoxy is very effective at filling in those wretched tiny air bubbles that always appear in your mold in spite of your best efforts. For me, 5 minute epoxy sets up waaay too fast. 30 minute if great but hard to find. 2 hour epoxy is ok but the extra time might permit too much sagging. BTW, for 2-piece molds only, I only seal the lure cavity, never the flat surface. I'm extremely careful about that. I don't want to compromise the flushness of the 2 flat surfaces. Even a tiny smudge of epoxy on the flat surface can compromise a flush fit. If they're not totally flush then you tend to get too much flashing around the edges of the lure where the plastic has seeped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted December 11, 2008 Report Share Posted December 11, 2008 Great tips there thanks. I tried thinning epoxy down with meths but I think I need to use alchol or use a lot more next time because it was still too thick and cured very quickly. I take it that it is better to use a nice thin coats that will leave a smooth surface instead of all these brush marks I have. When you seal the mold, how much of the mold do you cover? Do you cover only the cavity or all surfaces on top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe S. Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 I usually cover a little area around the cavity on the one sided ones, that way if I do miss the plastic peels off easy:yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Good tip there. THank you. Do you find that your mold's colour changes slightly after sealing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe S. Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I cut the epoxy with alcohol, I am not sure how it happens but once in a while it will have a yellowish tint to it. Maybe I didn't mix the epoxy good enough, or did not get and equal amount of each agent, but the mold works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsea Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 How do you judge when you have put enough alcohol in the epoxy? I'm having trouble getting this right. So far I have put too little (making it set too quick) or too much. Is it best to ad a few drops at a time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I put 3 or 4 coats on my molds. I thin the first coat down to almost water consistency and it soaks into the mold. The second coat is thinned a little less and this will soak in as well but only as far as the first coat. The third coat is thinned even a little less and this will build up the finish. Sometimes the 3rd coat is enough; but most times it takes a 4th to get the "glass" finish. Forgot to say that the first 2 coats are applied to the entire face of the mold whether it is a one piece or two piece. They soak in so it doesn't effect the closure of the 2 piece mold. Hope this helps. www.novalures.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
