Jeep Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 Hi all, I know this must be the no 1000 of this kind of question, but I just have to ask.. I have been using etex for some time now, and altough I really like the looks of this stuff, the thick shiny that is, there are some things that I don't like about it.. The fact that it tends to draw away from sharp edges, wich is kind of a problem with swimbaits, and the fact that it takes forever to dry..especially in cold temperatures as of now in freezing Holland... So I would like to try something else, I have read alot about D2T here but that stuff is just not available over here. I have seen a lot of 'marine ' 2 component stuff... has anybody tried any of those? I think it would also be great to be able to spray the stuff on using a spraygun, I have seen some of that stuff that can do this. Any ideas are very welcome! Thnx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boskabouter Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 Hi Jeep, As a fellow Dutchie I've had the same experiences. I went from spraycanclear to etex to d2t to one part pu and now back to etex I used d2t unthinned and found it cures way too fast to clear a bait and get an evened out result. However I read somewhere overhere that d2t can be thinned with acetone so maybe I'll give it another shot. I know where you can get it in the Neths, just be prepared to empty your wallet Shoot me a pm here or at RVN. Grtz Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishghillie Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 Hi there I was living in Italy for a while and I also couldnt find(in resonable quantity) a decentepoxy but what I did find was a plastic coating for fences and pavements etc. Came in a 1 litre metal pot and it cleared to a nice clear shiny semi hard finish, drip free after about 10 minutes and full hard in 24 hours. Check out the few lures I have posted in the gallery. I just dipped the finished lures or between paint layers. Trial and error was required to see which paints I could shot over the platic coat. The tub itself was red in colour and all instructions were in Italian but was sold next to the boat epoxys and fibreglass repair kits. The outlet was Leroy Merlin (if they are in Holland). I am now looking for the same osrt of product here in the States as I really liked working with it and far more economical than epoxy. I hope may help you out to widen your search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark berrisford Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 most if not all epoxies will draw away from sharp edges hence none of my baits have sharp edges and if your making larger lures there's only e-tex that tick's all the box's in price workability and finish especially in europe where we don't have that many alternatives.i did read on here that someone was using a fast setting epoxy on the sharp edges and then e-texing over the top to get round that problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) @ Jeep I use a couple of layers of epoxy and two-component lacquer , that I purchase at HAKUMA ihr Spezialist für Köder, Kunstköder, Meeresangeln, Raubfisch angeln, Pilker, Wobbler, Fischen, Bleiguss, Formen, Ruten, Rollen, Dorsch angeln, Leng angeln in Norwegen, Dänemark, Hitra . But I don't think , that this would satisfy you , since my layers are not as thick as you might be used to . I guess , if using a lure rotator , you could apply the epoxy thicker than I do just switching them over when hanging to dry . The two-component stuff I paint over the epoxy at least two times , since it provides a harder surface . Another alternative might be the "Finnish way" , many guys over there are using concrete laquer to topcoat their lures . I don't know about the exact brand of lacquer , nor the details of the method , only know , that they dip their baits about 6 to 8 times into the paint , with a certain amount of drying time inbetween . Also I was told , that it is quite smelly ! I only wrote some translations of my Finnish friend's Jio brief explanations on the subject somewhere on the German site KoederDesign.de - alles für den Köderbau . But I also have some swapped baits made by Jio , and I can assure you , that this finish is tough and also sufficiently thick ! And concerning the temperatures...... Finland is a lot colder than The Netherlands:yes: ! greetz , diemai Edited December 17, 2008 by diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 I found some concrete stuff in Indonesia. I was going to try it, but the directions said not for use below water level or constantly damp enviroments. This put me off my investment. Of course, this may be different stuff to the product that you are talking about. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 Alright , looked again at that German site and the things , that I have written there . That concrete lacquer used by Jio is called "LV 1" , made by "Solmaster", I suppose a Finnish company ? Check Solmaster mainpage ! The paint is described there as being two-compoment , as a member of that German site stated(I haven't checked it yet , only did the translation and typing work , since Jio doesn't speak German too much) . But Jio said , that this must be a mistake on the English version site , since on the original Finnish version of the "Solmaster" site the stuff is described as one-component , and he knows , that it is also sold in the Baltic states(Estonia) in that one-component version . Personally I have only checked our local tool mart for sucha stuff , but they only had colored floor paint , no clear one . If a serious interest should occur about this , I would translate the describtion about handling the stuff from that German site and post it in here as well . greetz , diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) Sorry , double post ! Edited December 17, 2008 by diemai deleting text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Posted December 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 Thanks for the info guys. So as I understand you could use d2t and etex together?.. like d2t for the inside of joints and etex for the outside flanks... sounds interesting... Grtz Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
