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icemanrrc

How to measure/pour small amount of Etex???

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Do a search here for 3cc syringes. The ones I use are Flexcoat mixing syringes, and I got them from Netcraft. Look under rod building supplies, and then epoxies.

I use them, and leave them in tight fitting holes drilled in the caps of the resin and hardener bottles. I leave them sitting upside down in the tops of the bottles when I'm not using them. They don't allow air in when they're sitting there, and you can just turn the bottles over and pull out equal small amounts whenever you like. Just be sure to have one hand on the syringe so it doesn't fall out. And don't mix them up. I do one at a time, so it's idiot proof.

Since I've started using them (thanks to everyone who suggested it) I haven't had a single bad batch of epoxy.

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@ icemanrrc

I do my epoxy mixing in small transparent plastic jugs , that are normally used for medicating patients in hospitals .

Got that idea many years ago , when my wife needed some surgery .

I asked her to gather these for me , and she brought home dozens and dozens from the entire floor of the hospital , which I all cleaned up thoroughly .

After they were used up , I ordered new ones from the local chemist's(drugstore) .

I find these jugs very handy , since they have 1-millilitre steps divided marker lines .

I poor in the epoxy straight from it's container , requires some patience , since the stuff is not that liquid , just to settle straight level to spectaculate on the marker lines .

After just stir up the mixture and brush on:) !

good luck:yay: , diemai

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Like Diemai I too use plastic cups, but I get mine from a restaurant supply house like Smart & Final. They are sold as desert cups, they are translucent and come in different sizes, usually 250 or more for a couple of bucks. I choose the appropriate size and set them on the counter side by side. Then I pour equal amounts in each cup then pour one cup into the other, mix and apply. Just be careful as they don

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You want to use syringes.......they are very accurate and easy to use. Keep in mind that Etex calls for equal parts by "volume" not "weight" so using a scale is not a good idea.

If you don't believe it, weigh out 20 grams of A and 20 grams of B in seperate dixie cups and then place them side-by-side on the counter and you will see that although they are equal by "weight" they are not equal by "volume".

Jed V.

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You want to use syringes.......they are very accurate and easy to use. Keep in mind that Etex calls for equal parts by "volume" not "weight" so using a scale is not a good idea.

If you don't believe it, weigh out 20 grams of A and 20 grams of B in seperate dixie cups and then place them side-by-side on the counter and you will see that although they are equal by "weight" they are not equal by "volume".

Jed V.

Great post... I thought the same thing, But never weighed them.... I would not use weight of two different materials thinking the volume would be the same. I use measuring medicine cups as well... It's how you mix them is the key as well. Environmental Technology Inc.

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Great post... I thought the same thing, But never weighed them.... I would not use weight of two different materials thinking the volume would be the same. I use measuring medicine cups as well... It's how you mix them is the key as well. Environmental Technology Inc.

You are absolutely correct. That's easy to solve though. I offset mine by density. Just request an MSDS from the manufacturer or call them and proportion according to density listed. It will generally be something like 1.1 g/cm for the catalyst and 1.3 g/cm for the resin, depending on the brand. I dropped the two side by side in Excel, then just drug it down and it gives me proportions from 1.8 grain all the way to 180 grain mixes.

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You are absolutely correct. That's easy to solve though. I offset mine by density. Just request an MSDS from the manufacturer or call them and proportion according to density listed. It will generally be something like 1.1 g/cm for the catalyst and 1.3 g/cm for the resin, depending on the brand. I dropped the two side by side in Excel, then just drug it down and it gives me proportions from 1.8 grain all the way to 180 grain mixes.

Downriver,

I have no doubt your method works, and, for your work, it's a natural kind of thing.

But, since I've followed Jed's advice and bought a couple of sets of syringes, I haven't had a bad batch of epoxy.

I like the KISS method. Especially since I'm usually the second S when I try to be "clever". ;)

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Get the syringes and do exactly like Mark said with the hole in the cap. If you search, I have a picture somewhere here that shows what I mean. It is extremely fast and extremely accurate. You will have zero issues and almost no expense. I would however purchase the ones from flexcoat. Syringes from a medical supply store (ones with the rubber plunger) can be lubricated with silicone and WILL cause fisheyes. Better safe than sorry. Epoxies with a need to measure by weight need to be done obviously with a scale, but for a 1:1 by volume, the syringes are the way to go!

TJ

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By all of you guys posts I now see the sense in measuring in weight , not in volume , it's just logical !

And the two ingredients definately do have different weights , since in my small mixing cups the hardener always swims above the resin(or vice-versa :huh:?) .

I can clearly observe this , when waiting for the stuff to fall level to the cup's marker lines , the catalist has a slighly darker color !

It's just like oil swimming on water !

But for the very small amounts , that I mix for one painting proccess(max . 0,006 litres !) , the error measuring by volume would not be that much in relation to mix larger quantities that way , I guess(ever been poor concerning maths:huh:) ?

And I have made my experiences doing it that way , at first once or twice the finish remained tacky , but now I get it straight time after time :wink:.

greetz , diemai

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