Infos for painting big musky blade

[Helmout]

Hello everyone, i'm making my own bucktail and spinerbait since a year now.

You know what i found.......

I cant get my hand on the color i want with these # 8 + blade.

So i want to paint my own blade with the color p

[diemai]

@ Helmout

Many years ago , at the beginning of my luremaking career , I have made maybe a few hundreds of spoons and spinnerblades out of stainless steel , copper and brass sheet .

A certain share of these I have also painted .

For best possible adhesion of the paint design you must at first roughen up and clean the metals surface , I did this at my work by sandblasting , but rough sanding and/or cleaning it up with a rotating steel bristled brush(drillpress)would work as well .

Counting for copper and brass , all tarnished surfaces must be cleaned down to the bare metal .

Well , I have primed the blades/spoons with ordinary solvent based white primer paint from the local tool store , but nowadays I switched to acrylic based primer , due to better compatibility with other different kinda paints .

The coloration I always did with "Revell" modelmaking enamels , off course by hand-brushing , only a few I have lateron also painted with rattlecans .

In earlier days I used to seal the designs off with a few layers of ordinary solvent based clear lacquer , but soon I switched over to a certain kinda 2 component clear gloss , said to be coming from the auto industry , two to three coats of this are OK for sufficient coverage .

Probably you might as well use epoxy for it , but I never did , since that 2 component lacquer dries a lot quicker , no problems about paint flowing like with epoxy .

Prior to this one I'd apply one or two layers of acrylic clear paint onto the paint design , since sometimes some paints might get dissolved by certain kinds of cleargloss , so this is a kinda protective coat .

I have found my metal coloration method to be quite durable , once I needed a certain blade shiny polished , so I took an old , painted one to clean off the paint again , it was a real PITA to get off all of the paint with that rotating steel bristle brush !

Off course the paint chips away on the edges occasionally , due to contact with rocks , mussels, etc. , but never to an extend of bigger portions coming off .

BTW :

I have also ocassionally purchased readily colored spinnerblades from various US mailorder stores .

I have found these paints vulnerable to the softeners containing in plastic lures , when stored together .

After one sticky mess , I have sealed those blades also with that 2 component automotive lacquer , and no such problems anymore !

good luck:yay: , diemai

[Spike-A-Pike]

I have been trying different powder paints on stainless steel blades and aluminum buzz bait blades; first heating them and using a fluid bed to get the powder on.

I don't consider myself an expert, but have gotten good results using Pro-Tec powder paint and some samples I have received from a fellow TU Member, Cadman. I am also trying to hone my skills to include powder painting the brass lure bodies. These finishes seem pretty durable, although some use a powder clear coat to top them off. Good luck and tight lines.

[21xdc]

I have found that whenever I painted and clearcoated blades, The spinning action was killed. But these were on #4 and #5 willowleafs. I'm sure the bigger blades will have less effect.

[diemai]

@ 21xdc

I can imagine that , since making willowleaf blades at home gave me the biggest poblems , these are tricky , many a times they won't spin nicely .

Try using so called "swing blades" , these are also elongated , but with rounded-off ends , these always kick to spin on a breeze .

greetz , diemai

[MuskyGary]

What about painting with createx and using stencils; then dip in Dick Nites? I know he dips his spoons in DN. Has anyone tried it?